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Mid cam swap help *ASAP*

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Old Apr 9, 2005 | 05:35 PM
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Red face Mid cam swap help *ASAP*

Ok, so Im going to be using the TDC method to keep the valves up. I am running into a prob w/ the crank bolt however.

It seems like the first one or two threads in the crank are slightly damaged. We try to screw the old stock bolt in so that we can turn the crank, but it will only go in a few turns and it then gets tuff to turn (Ive heard this bolt ~should~ be able to slide in by hand).

We looked inside the crank and it looked like it was juse the 1st thread or two that were chipped slightly.

Any idea's or opinions? Can we just crank it in w/ a ratchet, or???

Thanks for the help guys.

Ryan
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Old Apr 9, 2005 | 05:42 PM
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Whenever I run into problems like that we usually run a tap down into it to clean up the threads. I dont know the size of that bolt or if thats what you SHOULD do, but I dont think wrenching it down is a good idea. It could cause it to damage the rest of the threads as well.
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Old Apr 9, 2005 | 05:43 PM
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Thats what I was thinking too, I mean we pulled the bolt out after a few (gentile) trys at getting it in, and found a sliver of the crank thread on the bolt. But where would one find a tap that size??
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Old Apr 9, 2005 | 06:42 PM
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Anyone else? I really need somequick input guys, weather is soooo nice up here right now This thing needs to get back on the road
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Old Apr 9, 2005 | 06:58 PM
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just went out to see how far the bolt goes in.

It turns about 1 1/4 turns and then wont turn anymore. Im sure I could get a ratchet and REALLY twist it hard, and it probably will go in, but I dont want to strip the entire thing..
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Old Apr 9, 2005 | 08:51 PM
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just go to teh hardware store and get a longer new bolt...a grade 8.... and use it to chase the threads... I had to do that on my previous vehicle

wish I could tell you what the threads are...but I dont know anymore...I can tell you its metric
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Old Apr 9, 2005 | 08:57 PM
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Get a new bolt like sound said and then take a wizered and cut slots up it about 4 this will make the bolt acted like a tap.Just don,t ram it in and use some lube on it.









Mike Rogers
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Old Apr 9, 2005 | 09:07 PM
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Update:

Ok I ground 2 sides of the old bolt down. sanded them so they werent all jagged.

Hand spun it on about 1 1/2 turns, and it got tuff to spin. So I gently pulled it out. No shavings. I then tried to use the good bolt and it spun in about a 1/2 more than before. I repeated the ground bolt and this time it went in quite a bit (1/2 way in). Took it out, and it had about a 1/2 of a thread sliver shaving. Inserted new bolt and it spun almost all the way on. Did this about 2 more times gently w/ the ground bolt and found a few ~tiny~ shavings that were Im guessing residue from the 1st thread findings.

As of now, the good bolt can be hand spun all of the way in. I can also tighten it quite a bit w/ the 24mm ratchet. My question is how hard do you have to push the ratchet for the crank to spin, and what do you guys think I should do? Is doing this now somewhat safe?
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Old Apr 9, 2005 | 09:09 PM
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You need a thread chaser M-16 by 2.0 pitch probly have to go to a specialty bolt store to find one
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Old Apr 9, 2005 | 09:10 PM
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Take all the spark plugs out it will make it much easyer to turn by hand.You won,t be fighting the compression of the engine this way.







mike
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Old Apr 9, 2005 | 09:17 PM
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Spark plugs are out. bolt is in. I just now need to know how much force its going to take to get the crank to spin. I just kinda what to use that as a judge how hard not to push on the ratchet and strip the whole thing.
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Old Apr 9, 2005 | 09:19 PM
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Any were,s between 35 to 45 ft. pounds
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Old Apr 9, 2005 | 09:37 PM
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Got it to spin guys! Thanks for all the fast help!

Ryan
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