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Dyno numbers from my new 383...any good?

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Old 04-13-2005, 12:54 PM
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Default Dyno numbers from my new 383...any good? GRAPH POSTED

Graph is added in later post below.

I just got my 383 dyno tuned at Speed Inc. 461 rwhp, 434 rwtq. It had 360 miles on it so I think it is still kind of tight. The A/F was between 12.5 and 13.0,

I road race and autocross the car so it spends a LOT of time between 4000 and 6800 rpm. I am talking like anywhere from 1 minute to 20 minutes straight depending if it is a timed run or practice session. For this reason I didn't want to go over .550 lift. The area under the curve is great. I have over 400 lb-ft at the tires from 3300-6000 rpm.

If I could figure out how to attach the graph, I would. Or if someone would like to volunteer, I will email it to you. It shows my 346 vs the 383 with the graphs overlaid.

I know I could have gotten bigger numbers with a bigger cam, but I was going for more reliability and broad torque curve with this motor. The rest of my engine mods are in the sig.

Do these numbers look decent for what it is?

Thanks
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Brad Oblak
2000 Z28 M6 (461 RWHP, 434 RWTQ)
Rich Groh built all stroke 383, RGR stage II LS1 heads, ported LS6 intake, 236/236/111 .550/.550 cam, FLP headers, Mufflex, Strange 12 bolt w/4.11, BMR K-member and upper and low front A-arms, LCA, Torque arm, Subframes, Speed Inc Tune, and a bunch of othe parts--Car is set up for Road racing/Autocross

Last edited by MBC Racing; 04-15-2005 at 03:08 PM. Reason: Added graph
Old 04-13-2005, 02:25 PM
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Great numbers with that cam! Especially considering the amount of torque in the low end! You have an awesome street car in your hands dude!

If you want to attach you graph, click on the [Manage Attachments] button in the Additional Options section. Add your file in one of the File to Upload spaces. Click the [Upload] button.

I can't wait to see that torque curve.
Old 04-13-2005, 02:34 PM
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I like the #s
Old 04-13-2005, 03:12 PM
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I tried to down load it. Says file too large. Any ideas how to shrink it to fit?

Thanks
Brad
Old 04-13-2005, 03:29 PM
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yeah, open it in microsoft paint, go to image>stretch/skew and shrink it 50% or however much it takes to get it small enough.
Old 04-15-2005, 03:07 PM
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Here is the Graph.
Thanks for the help.
Brad
Attached Thumbnails Dyno numbers from my new 383...any good?-hp-torque.gif  
Old 04-15-2005, 03:24 PM
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Looks like a strong motor. With the rpm's you are going have it at, is there a reason you built a stroker as opposed to an all bore 382? Just curious, I'm researching my options.
Old 04-15-2005, 03:46 PM
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Yeah, why stroked and not bored?
Old 04-15-2005, 04:23 PM
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My crank was smoked in my 346, so I had to buy another one anyway. I got my stroker rotating assy (callies crank, Callies rods, diamond pistons, .....all forged components.... and clevite bearings) for $1600 NEW. Killer deal. Also all bore is expensive because of the resleaving process. At least that was the last I heard. I didn't want to go to a iron block because I didn't want to add more weight to the front of my car. If I did an iron block, I would have went 400+ cubes.

Also, I thought a longer stroke will give you more torque vs a short stroke and larger bore.. Is this correct or not??

Brad
Old 04-15-2005, 04:24 PM
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Most people don't want a leaky block that can happen on the resleeve. Those are good numbers for that cam. If you do anouther cam down the line get more lift .580 and go wider lsa to bring the power peak higher. You are peaking too earlly to run it all the way to 6800.
Old 04-15-2005, 04:55 PM
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Originally Posted by MBC Racing
Also, I thought a longer stroke will give you more torque vs a short stroke and larger bore.. Is this correct or not??

Brad
Yeah, you will have more low end tq with a stroker. But all bores rev higher and make better power up top. And you're able to run larger valves. I think that would be better suited for a road racer. I don't think a leaking block is a problem anymore, as long as you get it from the right place. But you have a nice motor anyway




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