Does anyone see any problems with this ultimate PVC fix
I am simply going to bypass the throttle body, and point the PVC vapors down at the road with a tube.
I believe this would work fine.
Thanks
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<strong> doesnt the engine "suck" the vapors out? if you just leave it going outside will it be as effective? </strong></font><hr /></blockquote><font size="2" face="Verdana, Helvetica, sans-serif">That's right!
In the olden days cars had a draft tube for the engine vent. The opening faced the rear of the car and in the airstream and the bottom of the oil pan. The the moving air creates a vacuum and sucked out the crankcase vapors from the vented oil filler cap.
Leo
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The pcv makes a vacuum inside the engine, which apparently improves the oil pressure very slightly. The amount is barely visible on our simple gauges. I let my pcv filter fill up with oil to try to see the pressure drop and it is about 5 pounds different. Some say the vacuum also improves ring seal but I have no way to determine if that is true.
The pcv system was invented to keep pollution down but it had another unintended and favorable consequence, by essentially doubling engine life compared to the draft tube system you see under older engines. The draft tube sucked in a lot of road grit into the crankcase that ate up the bearings and cylinder walls. An engine used to be toast long before 100,000 miles. So the whole pcv system is very beneficial and you want it to operate essentially as intended, but make it better by filtering out most of the oil-aerosols before the vacuum pulls them into the intake manifold.
The tube that is in front of the throttle blade, which leads to the top of the valve cover, is just a source of filtered air.
Your setup has no vacuum. It won't filter anything, but will function only as an extra breather cap, through which blow by pressure will be released. Most of the corrosive aerosols and water condensate will stay inside the engine, which is not good for ring seal.
Pep Boys has an air filter for filtering the PCV line. The filter is a small acrylic bottle, filter and separator used in an air compressor-line for spray painting. It cost $19.95 and is a Camel 56-100 (a/k/a AMFLO 3000 RET) without the automatic drain, so it has a small manual drain at the bottom of the clear polycarbonate bottle. It is designed to filter solids AND liquids from air, so it should work better than fuel filters designed to separate solids from fuel.
The actual filtration is through a tiny 3/4" tall replaceable poly-spun filter and the polycarbonate container is about 3" tall and 1 and 1/2" in diameter. The oil and aerosols separate into the bottom.
I also bought 2 brass 1/4" fittings that are made by Camel and sold alongside the filter, and a brass 1/4" splicing fitting, and some screw clamps. The Camel filter with auto drain has the same part # (?!?) and I doubt if this would work in the PCV system, (which is a vacuum system and not pressurized like an air compressor) so be sure you buy one with the black plastic screw and thread lines that show through at the bottom.
When full, the polycarbonate container will hold maybe 2-3 ounces of oil. I temporarily mounted it with cable ties to the A/C condenser so I could see it and drain it. I used an extra 30" of 3/8" gas line tubing, spliced into the existing line, which I twisted 180 degrees over to reach toward the new filter.
For $30 total and about an hour of your time you could try the mod I suggested. I spent more time wandering around Pep Boys reading labels on all the different kinds of filters than installing the filter in my car. Look in the "painting" section for this filter.
Email me at the address in Sig and I will send pics. Cost of parts is about 10.
<img border="0" alt="[burn out]" title="" src="graemlins/gr_burnout.gif" />
<strong> In other words drive like you care about getting best mileage possible and you will control ring seal/oil control. <img border="0" title="" alt="[Wink]" src="gr_images/icons/wink.gif" /> </strong></font><hr /></blockquote><font size="2" face="Verdana, Helvetica, sans-serif"><img border="0" alt="[jester]" title="" src="graemlins/gr_jest.gif" /> <img border="0" alt="[jester]" title="" src="graemlins/gr_jest.gif" /> <img border="0" alt="[burn out]" title="" src="graemlins/gr_burnout.gif" />
i took off the tb on my 97 tahoe, ive never seen so much oil in my life!
It wouldnt happen if engine spent more time W.O.T. <img border="0" title="" alt="[Wink]" src="gr_images/icons/wink.gif" />
Its a simple install, the pics are kinda small but I really didnt take them for the pcv mod. On 99-up cars you just unplug the PCV from the manifold, take off the rubber fitting on the PCV that connected it to the intake, get a small piece of 3/8 hose and a 3/8 90 degree plastic fitting and attach it to the PCV valve and run that hose around the coil pack to the filter. Then from the filter back to the intake where the PCV was hooked up
<img src="http://personalpages.tds.net/~kpevin/1.jpg" alt=" - " />
This is on a C5 but you get the idea - it can be mounted anywhere..
<img src="http://personalpages.tds.net/~kpevin/2.jpg" alt=" - " />
I just pulled my heads off last week, this is what the chambers/pistons looked like. The car has 80,000 miles on it and about 6000 with the pcv mod.
<img src="http://personalpages.tds.net/~kpevin/3.jpg" alt=" - " />
Normal driving will collect little oil, on the dyno or the 1/4 mile it collects a surprising amount of oil. I think something like the greddy can would work better but this seems good enough so far..


