Comp Pro-Magnum Rocker to Valve Cover Clearance
#1
LS1 Tech Veteran
Thread Starter
iTrader: (1)
Join Date: Oct 2003
Location: Wichita, Ks
Posts: 1,170
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
Comp Pro-Magnum Rocker to Valve Cover Clearance
I'm installing some Comp 1.75:1 rocker arms on my truck with a cam that will yield about a .525 lift. I have done some searches here and have found varying opinions on whether or not there are clearance issues with the center bolt factory Valve Covers. Does anyone have any light that they can shed on this. Some people say they've had to grind the valve covers and others say that none is required. What's the real deal?
Thanks,
Steve
Thanks,
Steve
#3
Remove The Baffles From The Inside Of The Valve Cover & Check For Clearance.if They Hit(the Adjusting Bolt Will Hit,not The Rocker)
Call Lg Motorsports & Prepare To Drop About $125.00.the Spacers Will Solve The Problem,the Stock Coil Wires Should Still Reach.
Call Lg Motorsports & Prepare To Drop About $125.00.the Spacers Will Solve The Problem,the Stock Coil Wires Should Still Reach.
#4
LS1 Tech Veteran
Thread Starter
iTrader: (1)
Join Date: Oct 2003
Location: Wichita, Ks
Posts: 1,170
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
pphill1,
Thanks for the information. This helps me know what to look for tomorrow and how to potentially solve the problem. Do you know if the adjusting nuts hit the boss area for the center cover hold-down bolts or something else? I'm wondering if I can just use my die grinder and a burr to clearance things a bit.
Thanks again,
Steve
Thanks for the information. This helps me know what to look for tomorrow and how to potentially solve the problem. Do you know if the adjusting nuts hit the boss area for the center cover hold-down bolts or something else? I'm wondering if I can just use my die grinder and a burr to clearance things a bit.
Thanks again,
Steve
#7
LS1 Tech Veteran
Thread Starter
iTrader: (1)
Join Date: Oct 2003
Location: Wichita, Ks
Posts: 1,170
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
Thanks guys. I wanted to avoid buying the spacers. I called LG Motorsports and they are $250/pair. I'll send a PM to Unafilliatedracing to see if he has any extra tips. I'm also installing a set of heads that I've home ported and new valve lifters. While I have the heads and lifters, I'm going to do some investigation and take some pictures and maybe measurements on the lifter holding rod (AKA JPR Tool versus 5/16" rods, etc). I don't need the rods right now, but I want to do some investigation for the LS1 community here at LS1Tech. I don't like the issue of folks getting rods jammed-up in their engines when they are trying to do a cam change.
Steve
Steve
Steve
Steve
Trending Topics
#8
#9
TECH Apprentice
iTrader: (2)
Join Date: Apr 2004
Location: Cary Il
Posts: 323
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
I did
I have a 98 and had to remove the drivers side baffle. Other then that fit was great. Adjusting Pre-load was a PAIN IN THE A**. If you are using Comp R lifters after you adjust the rockers check cyl compression to make sure they are all even. This should tell you if they are right. Let me know if there are any questions...
#10
LS1 Tech Veteran
Thread Starter
iTrader: (1)
Join Date: Oct 2003
Location: Wichita, Ks
Posts: 1,170
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
What is different on the two valve covers other than the oil fill versus the PCV Valve? Is the additional baffleing in the PCV valve area the problem? Also, my center bolt covers may have different baffle construction than your perimeter construction.
I'm using the Comp 580 series lifters where you set zero lash and then add a half turn before locking things down.
Steve
I'm using the Comp 580 series lifters where you set zero lash and then add a half turn before locking things down.
Steve
#11
TECH Apprentice
iTrader: (2)
Join Date: Apr 2004
Location: Cary Il
Posts: 323
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
valve covers
On mine the Drivers rear had a piece of alum that had to be removed because the rocker arm hit it. I do not know if there will be a difference on other model years. I think you mean 850 series. These are stock replacements and much more forgiving on preload...
#12
LS1 Tech Veteran
Thread Starter
iTrader: (1)
Join Date: Oct 2003
Location: Wichita, Ks
Posts: 1,170
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
You're right, I meant to type 850 Series. As always, it's what I mean to say that's important, not merely what I actually do sayl:-).
Thanks for the information.
Steve
Thanks for the information.
Steve
#14
LS1 Tech Veteran
Thread Starter
iTrader: (1)
Join Date: Oct 2003
Location: Wichita, Ks
Posts: 1,170
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
I have the center bolt covers and I did remove the baffle on the driver's side and a bit of additional die grinder work. However, On the passenger side, I had to grind down one of the two center bosses for a little extra clearance. No big deal, thanks for the help.
Now, on setting the pre-load. The first time I tried to set it I had too much preload and no compression. Then, I loosened all the adjusting nuts and started over, trying carefully to find zero by wiggling the roller tip and adding half a turn. The engine runs fine, just too much clearance now. The problem is that you can't really get your fingers in to try to turn the push rods to set zero lash. Does anyone have a suggestion on this?
Thanks,
Steve
Now, on setting the pre-load. The first time I tried to set it I had too much preload and no compression. Then, I loosened all the adjusting nuts and started over, trying carefully to find zero by wiggling the roller tip and adding half a turn. The engine runs fine, just too much clearance now. The problem is that you can't really get your fingers in to try to turn the push rods to set zero lash. Does anyone have a suggestion on this?
Thanks,
Steve