Cam degreeing: dot to dot or TDC method?
Cam degreeing: dot to dot or TDC method? Just curious -- when do you guys do just dot to dot degreeing, and when do you go through the effort to do the TDC method? For those of you who do the TDC method, any recommendations on a good degreeing kit? I have a spark plug piston stop that works nicely but I could never find a dial indicator that would mount securely enough to my head for me to get an accurate reading.
Also, what would be the side effects of having your valve timing off by a few degrees (either advance or retard).
Also, what would be the side effects of having your valve timing off by a few degrees (either advance or retard).
Originally Posted by diynoob
Just curious -- when do you guys do just dot to dot degreeing, and when do you go through the effort to do the TDC method? For those of you who do the TDC method, any recommendations on a good degreeing kit? I have a spark plug piston stop that works nicely but I could never find a dial indicator that would mount securely enough to my head for me to get an accurate reading.
Also, what would be the side effects of having your valve timing off by a few degrees (either advance or retard).
Also, what would be the side effects of having your valve timing off by a few degrees (either advance or retard).
Good luck !
Wow, that sucks about your motor Arctic. Was it a P2V clearance problem (i.e., did it happen right away) or was the stress on the valve due to improper timing so great that it just broke off later on?
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Originally Posted by diynoob
Wow, that sucks about your motor Arctic. Was it a P2V clearance problem (i.e., did it happen right away) or was the stress on the valve due to improper timing so great that it just broke off later on?
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Originally Posted by CAT3
I didnt degree when install either the TR 224 or the TSP 231/237 cam's, just threw them in dot to dot. However the new cam is degree'd in 
Originally Posted by PREDATOR-Z
Degreing the cam makes sure that it is installed correctly. If off even 1 tooth it will show on the readings.
TECH Senior Member
Joined: Mar 2004
Posts: 14,620
Likes: 17
From: BFE
Originally Posted by camaroRS92
Yes, I know. I asked if it was installed in the same position. Meaning when you degreed it, did it end up on the same tooth as you originally installed it dot to dot, or did you have to make changes.
Anyone who installs a cam of say 226+ .565+ is doing so at their own risk. Degreeing is a must. To not check valve drop at TDC, P/V clearance at 10*ATDC, and/or clay is dangerous. I truly believe a lot of guys are running much closer tolerances than they realize. Case in point, I just installed a CC XER 228/230 .588/.591 112+2. I have AS 5.3L heads with only 2.02 intakes, virtually everyone I talked to said that it should be safe. It was degreed in and was were it was supposed to be. However when I checked P/V clearance and clayed , I only had ~ .045 clearance, it should have been .080+. I had the pistons notched and now have plenty of clearance and this is not a big cam. The .045 probably would have been OK but if I missed a shift or had valve float it might be another story.
I like using the central tools vice grip set dail indicator. It can be easily set up anywhere. Specialy where magnetic base ones cannot be placed.
I made a special bolt to degree in cams on LS1's. The accesory brackets is in the way to degree a cam in car. The degree wheel is to big to go right on the crank. I welded a stud onto old crank bolt. That way I can turn the motor w/ the bolt & have a large degree wheel out on the stud. Works like a charm.
I made a special bolt to degree in cams on LS1's. The accesory brackets is in the way to degree a cam in car. The degree wheel is to big to go right on the crank. I welded a stud onto old crank bolt. That way I can turn the motor w/ the bolt & have a large degree wheel out on the stud. Works like a charm.
I had the Comp setup. The degree wheel was nice, but the lettering came off the wheel when I sprayed a 50/50 mixture of degreaser and water on the motor to clean up the garage once I was done with my install. Also, the dial indicator was tough to get firmly attached to the head -- I wish there was a dial indicator that just held firmly on these LS1 heads...
