Tony @ MPH

iTrader: (20)

Just curious -- when do you guys do just dot to dot degreeing, and when do you go through the effort to do the TDC method? For those of you who do the TDC method, any recommendations on a good degreeing kit? I have a spark plug piston stop that works nicely but I could never find a dial indicator that would mount securely enough to my head for me to get an accurate reading.

Also, what would be the side effects of having your valve timing off by a few degrees (either advance or retard).

CAT3

iTrader: (9)

I didnt degree when install either the TR 224 or the TSP 231/237 cam's, just threw them in dot to dot. However the new cam is degree'd in

Tony @ MPH

iTrader: (20)

Did you notice any drivability or performance differences associated with degreeing the cam?

ArcticZ28

iTrader: (14)

Here's what happens when your timing is off by a few degress (btw I installed it by dot to dot but apparently I was off by a bit somehow God only knows)... https://ls1tech.com/forums/generation-iii-internal-engine/296794-what-knocking.html

Good luck !

PREDATOR-Z

If the cam is ground properly dot to dot should be OK. Degreing the cam will verify that before start up. (A professional builder will always degree the cam)

Tony @ MPH

iTrader: (20)

Wow, that sucks about your motor Arctic. Was it a P2V clearance problem (i.e., did it happen right away) or was the stress on the valve due to improper timing so great that it just broke off later on?

PREDATOR-Z

When a cam is not installed dot to dot, if it starts it will be out of whack, opening a valve when it should close it, so pistons kissed the valves (heavily)

ArcticZ28

iTrader: (14)

The piston was hitting the valve because it was staying open too long. It didn't happen right away. When I started it up it immediately was clicking, but just sounded like extra valvetrain noise which was expected. It waited to go to **** on me until I was a couple miles from my house out on an easy test drive.

BackinBlack02SS

iTrader: (7)

When you degreed it, did the cam end up the same same position as it would if you had just installed dot to dot?

PREDATOR-Z

Degreing the cam makes sure that it is installed correctly. If off even 1 tooth it will show on the readings.

BackinBlack02SS

iTrader: (7)

Yes, I know. I asked if it was installed in the same position. Meaning when you degreed it, did it end up on the same tooth as you originally installed it dot to dot, or did you have to make changes.

PREDATOR-Z

yes eventually it ends up on the starting point dot to dot with cyl. 1 and 6 at tdc, but that is because I would degree every lobe.most people just do one cylinder and call it a day.

bigdsz

iTrader: (1)

Anyone who installs a cam of say 226+ .565+ is doing so at their own risk. Degreeing is a must. To not check valve drop at TDC, P/V clearance at 10*ATDC, and/or clay is dangerous. I truly believe a lot of guys are running much closer tolerances than they realize. Case in point, I just installed a CC XER 228/230 .588/.591 112+2. I have AS 5.3L heads with only 2.02 intakes, virtually everyone I talked to said that it should be safe. It was degreed in and was were it was supposed to be. However when I checked P/V clearance and clayed , I only had ~ .045 clearance, it should have been .080+. I had the pistons notched and now have plenty of clearance and this is not a big cam. The .045 probably would have been OK but if I missed a shift or had valve float it might be another story.

Another_User

Dot to dot here. I checked that thing a ton of times, just to be sure I wasn't about to blow my car up.

Taspeed

iTrader: (1)

What degree wheels are you guys using? I can find em for sbc all day long. I guess I could make one or have one machined if need be, but would be easier to just buy one.

bigdsz

iTrader: (1)

Comp Cams has a degreewheel kit and dial indicator set up. Check their web site.

wrencher

iTrader: (2)

I like using the central tools vice grip set dail indicator. It can be easily set up anywhere. Specialy where magnetic base ones cannot be placed.
I made a special bolt to degree in cams on LS1's. The accesory brackets is in the way to degree a cam in car. The degree wheel is to big to go right on the crank. I welded a stud onto old crank bolt. That way I can turn the motor w/ the bolt & have a large degree wheel out on the stud. Works like a charm.

Tony @ MPH

iTrader: (20)

I had the Comp setup. The degree wheel was nice, but the lettering came off the wheel when I sprayed a 50/50 mixture of degreaser and water on the motor to clean up the garage once I was done with my install. Also, the dial indicator was tough to get firmly attached to the head -- I wish there was a dial indicator that just held firmly on these LS1 heads...