Generation III Internal Engine 1997-2006 LS1 | LS6
Sponsored by:
Sponsored by:

only 351.5 rwhp & 323.3 rwtq on 224/224 patriot ls6 head combo...why so low?

Thread Tools
 
Search this Thread
 
Old 05-07-2005, 06:08 PM
  #61  
TECH Apprentice
iTrader: (1)
 
fastbasser's Avatar
 
Join Date: Oct 2003
Posts: 309
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes on 0 Posts
Default

Your numbers are low even for a Mustang dyno. I didnt read all the posts. I would recommend taking it to a reutable tuner..

I had a similar setup, (slightly more lift) and got over 380 on a Mustang dyno with a bad head gasket..

JMHO

Old 05-07-2005, 06:32 PM
  #62  
TECH Apprentice
Thread Starter
iTrader: (2)
 
AsianIce25's Avatar
 
Join Date: Apr 2003
Location: Royal Oak, MI
Posts: 342
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes on 0 Posts

Default

Originally Posted by fastbasser
Your numbers are low even for a Mustang dyno. I didnt read all the posts. I would recommend taking it to a reutable tuner..

I had a similar setup, (slightly more lift) and got over 380 on a Mustang dyno with a bad head gasket..

JMHO

yeah, i know those arent the greatest numbers, but i think the heads want a bigger cam. the patriot ls6 heads i have are a little starvedi think. i had kirk from the old APE and W2W do the tune. i know he knows whats goin on. hes done 500+ ls1 tunes. i have faith in his work. i think ill be going with a vinci/crane cams cam, like the 050, 051, or 052 if they think it would be good. maybe the tsp 233/239 cam. i intend on stroking this thing, so ill get the cam that i can use with a stroker combo and make good power. im thinking just a 382, but maybe a ls2 block if they can get the knock sensor thing worked out in the next couple years. id like to stay aluminum block if possible. anyway, thanks for all the input guys. i appreciate it. there are still a couple bolt ons i need, like an electric water pump, ported tb, or maybe a fast 90/90 setup, but theyre so expensive. maybe a ls2 intake or soemthing. next on the list is my 12 bolt/9 inch. that will give me the most gains at the track. i always spin horrible 2.4-2.6 second 60' times. thats a second right there. i figure with my mods, and a 100 shot i should be deep in the 11's or maybe into the 10s. i think i want to go forced induction eventually. a D1SC with about 15lbs of boost and about 9.1:1 compression. ill have to decide fast though, cause ill need to get a good blower cam instead of the cams above. i think once i hit 600+ rwhp ill be happy. id really like to go turbo, but i dont want to just throw out my long tubes. i hate how that works...
Old 05-07-2005, 08:06 PM
  #63  
TECH Enthusiast
 
BBQLS1's Avatar
 
Join Date: Nov 2004
Location: Red Stick, LA
Posts: 659
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes on 0 Posts
Default

I think you should work with what you have an d figure why you dynoed so low. Just changing parts around won't get you anywhere.
Old 05-07-2005, 08:19 PM
  #64  
Staging Lane
 
PontiacTA99's Avatar
 
Join Date: Mar 2003
Location: Ohio
Posts: 85
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes on 0 Posts
Default

Get a Trex cam that will give you big power.
Old 05-08-2005, 02:09 PM
  #65  
On The Tree
 
disco192's Avatar
 
Join Date: Jan 2004
Location: Houston/ Austin, TX
Posts: 188
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes on 0 Posts

Default

Ok, I am gonna say it because nobody else here wants to.... but it needs to be said.

Dyno numbers are like arguing about the size of your *****. It doesnt make you more or less of a man. If they happen to be low, then figure out the problem. Dont go crying because the numbers seem to be low and start claiming that you have POS parts or need a bigger cam looking for the culprit.

I dont know about you, but I dont have the kinda cash to throw around when I am short on a dyno to do a full cam swap every month or so. Work with what you have. If the car isnt running right, figure it out. Check the plugs, check your install, run it at the track, check all possible scenarios before you start assuming that your car is weak. Fouled plugs, or even the wrong heat range, can cause a big difference. A unplug vacuum line can cause things to get all screwed up. EGR valve stuck open will make it run funky (but you prolly dont have EGR anyway)....

Point being, if it isnt putting down what you were expecting... find out why.

Another thing.... if you are wondering why dynos put down different numbers, the you really should learn how each dyno works. They work on completely different methods to obtain the "rwhp." On a dynojet (inertia) the wheels accelerate a drum with a set moment of inertia and the "rwhp" is then calculated from that.
Old 05-08-2005, 02:14 PM
  #66  
11 Second Club
iTrader: (16)
 
Tiger2o69's Avatar
 
Join Date: May 2004
Location: MS
Posts: 2,223
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes on 0 Posts

Default

If you do decide on a bigger cam I have a comp 228/230 112 + 4 ill sell you. Pm if intersested. If you looking to stay with the same one I hope you figure it out.
Old 05-08-2005, 05:44 PM
  #67  
TECH Apprentice
Thread Starter
iTrader: (2)
 
AsianIce25's Avatar
 
Join Date: Apr 2003
Location: Royal Oak, MI
Posts: 342
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes on 0 Posts

Default

Originally Posted by disco192
Ok, I am gonna say it because nobody else here wants to.... but it needs to be said.

Dyno numbers are like arguing about the size of your *****. It doesnt make you more or less of a man. If they happen to be low, then figure out the problem. Dont go crying because the numbers seem to be low and start claiming that you have POS parts or need a bigger cam looking for the culprit.

I dont know about you, but I dont have the kinda cash to throw around when I am short on a dyno to do a full cam swap every month or so. Work with what you have. If the car isnt running right, figure it out. Check the plugs, check your install, run it at the track, check all possible scenarios before you start assuming that your car is weak. Fouled plugs, or even the wrong heat range, can cause a big difference. A unplug vacuum line can cause things to get all screwed up. EGR valve stuck open will make it run funky (but you prolly dont have EGR anyway)....

Point being, if it isnt putting down what you were expecting... find out why.

Another thing.... if you are wondering why dynos put down different numbers, the you really should learn how each dyno works. They work on completely different methods to obtain the "rwhp." On a dynojet (inertia) the wheels accelerate a drum with a set moment of inertia and the "rwhp" is then calculated from that.
i did check everything. the plugs are fine, timing chain is fine. everything is cool, i did it myself, and i know a lot. i think my little 224 cam with its non-aggressive lobes just arent going to make the power i want in the long run. i think ill run this cam until i forge the bottom end and stroke it, then ill move to a monster. i think id like to have 450 at least, maybe over 500 on motor, or im going to go with a procharger and a d1sc. and i do know how the dynos work, i read almost the entire user manual for the mustang impawd.
Old 05-08-2005, 08:41 PM
  #68  
TECH Enthusiast
 
BBQLS1's Avatar
 
Join Date: Nov 2004
Location: Red Stick, LA
Posts: 659
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes on 0 Posts
Default

I don't know man, but a good friend of mine had TR do his car with the TR 224/224 cam, heads, and the other basic boltons (real similar to yours) and he dynoed 425 at the wheels on a dyno jet. But I would work around what you have. I don't know about the Lunati cams though. Check and see who else is using them. Also see what kind of MPH you run the the Quarter and compare with guys who have a similar set up.
Old 05-10-2005, 01:25 PM
  #69  
Staging Lane
 
the judge's Avatar
 
Join Date: Apr 2004
Posts: 57
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes on 0 Posts
Default

it sounds to me like your cam might be off a tooth this happened to a friend of mine. its kind of easy to make a mistake like that if your not experienced



Quick Reply: only 351.5 rwhp & 323.3 rwtq on 224/224 patriot ls6 head combo...why so low?



All times are GMT -5. The time now is 11:17 AM.