I know that you have to relash the valves all the time. And also it is harder on the valve train but what else is there on the negative side. And ofcourse the pros of it would be more power.

 

solid rev like crazy, make great power,but a lot mor maintanance, expense, you need adjustable valvetrain, must adjust valves regularly

 

If you really set the valve lash correctly and use good parts, you can get away with only needing to adjust the lash say every 6-7 thousand miles or so.

Advantages are obvious - can get well over 0.650 lift and well over 255 duration at .050 with sane streetability. Can cause a huge increase in power at the higher RPM band, and can safely rev over 7000 RPM with them.

 

To go solid roller one would need the cam, adjustable rocker arms, and lifters. Anything else?

 

I figured i would relash the valves once a week maybe on like friday during the day before i go and race it. So basically if done correctly there isnt that many reasons not to go to a solid roller. They are really all pros except adjusting the valve train.

 

</font><blockquote><font size="1" face="Verdana, Helvetica, sans-serif">quote:</font><hr /><font size="2" face="Verdana, Helvetica, sans-serif">Originally posted by WeatherGuy:
<strong> If you really set the valve lash correctly and use good parts, you can get away with only needing to adjust the lash say every 6-7 thousand miles or so.
</strong></font><hr /></blockquote><font size="2" face="Verdana, Helvetica, sans-serif">After talking with Paul @ Thunder about his setup (Jason's old motor), that's the impression I get as well. These aren't your dad's old mechanical lifter valvetrains. Once a week? Naaaah. Once every 3-6 months or every oil change? Yeah.

-Andrew

 

I was thinking once a week because i put alot of miles on my car when it is up and running. Gotta do something before the sun goes down on friday night. What are all the parts needed and what does everyone recommend for lifters and rockers and all that good stuff.

 

</font><blockquote><font size="1" face="Verdana, Helvetica, sans-serif">quote:</font><hr /><font size="2" face="Verdana, Helvetica, sans-serif">Originally posted by WeatherGuy:
<strong> If you really set the valve lash correctly and use good parts, you can get away with only needing to adjust the lash say every 6-7 thousand miles or so.

Advantages are obvious - can get well over 0.650 lift and well over 255 duration at .050 with sane streetability. Can cause a huge increase in power at the higher RPM band, and can safely rev over 7000 RPM with them. </strong></font><hr /></blockquote><font size="2" face="Verdana, Helvetica, sans-serif">Is that 6-7K mile adjustment for cars that are raced at the strip regularly??? What if I wanted to put one in my daily driver that will never see the track? Just moderate street driving with the occassional romp on the pedal.

See sig., my cam now is a 242/242 .610/.610 114 lsa. Should be well over 500 RWHP after the new fuel pump go's in. If a solid roller will smooth out my idle and offer more power, with adjustments say every 10,000 miles, I would do it now.

 

The problem is to take full advantage of the power made by the solid roller you would have to spin the rpms up to 7000 and 7500 rpms, as that is where the power is going to be made and where the roller cam will shine. How often are you going to be spinning that high realistically on the street if it an everyday driver. For Quicken, something tells me not that often as the power you will be making will be uncontrollable on the street.

If its a full time trailer drag car then for sure, but a driver that is going to see more time on the street than the stip may not make alot of sense.

THe biggest factor why i decided against the solid roller was this, the extra 2000.00/2,500.00 plus dollars and the fact that the A4 trannys we are running do not like to be spun that high and would be wearing out are trannys (yes built FLPs, etc)that much quicker, not to mention your entire valve train. Also, you would be channging your valvesprings that much more ofter with the roller and other valve train components with the roller cam.

These are all issues to be considered that i have picked up on lately from my research on whether to do a solid roller in my new MTI 427 LQ4 Z07 LS1 motor.

MTI 427 C5 Roadster

 

</font><blockquote><font size="1" face="Verdana, Helvetica, sans-serif">quote:</font><hr /><font size="2" face="Verdana, Helvetica, sans-serif">Originally posted by MTI 427 C5 Roadster:
<strong> The problem is to take full advantage of the power made by the solid roller you would have to spin the rpms up to 7000 and 7500 rpms, as that is where the power is going to be made and where the roller cam will shine. How often are you going to be spinning that high realistically on the street if it an everyday driver. For Quicken, something tells me not that often as the power you will be making will be uncontrollable on the street.

If its a full time trailer drag car then for sure, but a driver that is going to see more time on the street than the stip may not make alot of sense.

THe biggest factor why i decided against the solid roller was this, the extra 2000.00/2,500.00 plus dollars and the fact that the A4 trannys we are running do not like to be spun that high and would be wearing out are trannys (yes built FLPs, etc)that much quicker, not to mention your entire valve train. Also, you would be channging your valvesprings that much more ofter with the roller and other valve train components with the roller cam.

These are all issues to be considered that i have picked up on lately from my research on whether to do a solid roller in my new MTI 427 LQ4 Z07 LS1 motor.

MTI 427 C5 Roadster </strong></font><hr /></blockquote><font size="2" face="Verdana, Helvetica, sans-serif">Gotcha, just learned something about solids.

Thanks

 

Your solid roller is going to make more valvetrain noise. You will not "have" to relash the valves every week unless you want to but even then, if you do, you will probably notice the lash has not changed much if any in that period of time. If you race it a lot, check them about every 5-6 full passes and see if they have changed. Be careful, do not adjust them anymore than needs be. You may tighten the lash too much and loose power or loosen it and cause pre-mature valvetrain failure. Make sure you know how to lash them correctly before you go adjusting. Like I said, you will have more valvetrain noise and when the valves come out of adjustment, you will have even more.

 

There should be no reason to have to relash (check them) in less than 6-7k miles. If you had to relash more than that then you would also be buying new cams/lifters/rocker studs/something all of the time. You really are only compensating for wear (there should be next to none) and such and just checking them. This is of course assuming they are adjusted correctly from the start and not "loosening" over time. I've seen that messed up more than once on hyraulic cammed LT1's too though and if they are not "locked in" well the rocker bolt will back right out.