Loud Clunk then nothing
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Loud Clunk then nothing
I was driving along when I came to a stop sign with no cars around and a straightway.So I decide to wot run as I shift into second I hear A loud bang sounded like it came from the rear area.Then the sevice engine light came on for a second then the car just died motor shut off.Thought the worse get out check for oil on the ground nothing look at rear nothing weird there.So I start the car up starts right up like normal.What caused this to happen please very concerned?Also car has 12 bolt in it and adjustable bmr tourque arm.
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The ses light is not staying on,It did sound like it was something with the rear like something broke in the rear end then the motor shut down like I was saying before.Didn't sound like a missfire it happened soon as I shifted to second gear thats when it happened.Can it be the rear locked up for a momnent?Thanx in advance
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Well, if the rear fully locked up, then it would stop the rotation of the driveshaft, tranny, and finally the engine. This could stall the engine instantly. Id say pop the rear diff cover and check for broken teeth, backed out bolts or other metal that could be floating around in there.
#6
Originally Posted by 97383LT4
I was driving along when I came to a stop sign with no cars around and a straightway.So I decide to wot run as I shift into second I hear A loud bang sounded like it came from the rear area.Then the sevice engine light came on for a second then the car just died motor shut off.Thought the worse get out check for oil on the ground nothing look at rear nothing weird there.So I start the car up starts right up like normal.What caused this to happen please very concerned?Also car has 12 bolt in it and adjustable bmr tourque arm.
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Originally Posted by GuitsBoy
Well, if the rear fully locked up, then it would stop the rotation of the driveshaft, tranny, and finally the engine. This could stall the engine instantly. Id say pop the rear diff cover and check for broken teeth, backed out bolts or other metal that could be floating around in there.
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When taking the cap off do I need to take the pan hard bar off to remove the cap?and also the rear sway bar also seems to be in the way of the bottom bolts.Can anyone tell me how to do this the easiest way thanx in advance .
#11
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I take it youve never changed your own gear lube before. No need to remove the PHB or the rear sway bar.
Easiest way is simply a 12 mm combination wrench (i think it was 12mm, maybe not though) You can use a ratchet where it will fit. If you want to get fancy, a ratcheting gear wrench is nice, but my non-angled ones wont fit. Dont forget to drain the fluid into a large enough pail. Youll need 2 quarts of your favorite flavor rear gear lube, and 4 oz of friction modifier (i still use it on my 02). Youll also need a new 10 bolt gasket. Youll need just a little rtv on the gasket. Also a hand operated oil pump will help fill the rear back up, but isnt necessary. With a little work you can wedge the whole quart bottle and squirt it in the fill hole. The fill hole is up at the top on the passengers side of the rear diff housing. a 3/8 ratchet extention fits the 3/8 square recess in the plug.
Look around the drained gear lube and inside the housing for any chunks of metal. Also look for chipped gear teeth, or if you can spot anything wrong with the worm teeth in the torsen differential unit itself. Also look for any place metal could potentially bind like a backed out bolt for instance. Spin the wheels a couple times and have a good look. Youll need a buddy to hold the opposite wheel or theyll just go in opposite directions.
Easiest way is simply a 12 mm combination wrench (i think it was 12mm, maybe not though) You can use a ratchet where it will fit. If you want to get fancy, a ratcheting gear wrench is nice, but my non-angled ones wont fit. Dont forget to drain the fluid into a large enough pail. Youll need 2 quarts of your favorite flavor rear gear lube, and 4 oz of friction modifier (i still use it on my 02). Youll also need a new 10 bolt gasket. Youll need just a little rtv on the gasket. Also a hand operated oil pump will help fill the rear back up, but isnt necessary. With a little work you can wedge the whole quart bottle and squirt it in the fill hole. The fill hole is up at the top on the passengers side of the rear diff housing. a 3/8 ratchet extention fits the 3/8 square recess in the plug.
Look around the drained gear lube and inside the housing for any chunks of metal. Also look for chipped gear teeth, or if you can spot anything wrong with the worm teeth in the torsen differential unit itself. Also look for any place metal could potentially bind like a backed out bolt for instance. Spin the wheels a couple times and have a good look. Youll need a buddy to hold the opposite wheel or theyll just go in opposite directions.
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Thanx for the directions guitsboy Though I have a 12 bolt with the aluminum cap so it sticks out little further then the stock one.It looks like I have to remove the phb and the rear sway bar to get the cap off.or at least lossen up the rear sway bar.Thanx for the advice again though will open it up eventually to do a visual.
#13
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Originally Posted by 97383LT4
Thanx for the directions guitsboy Though I have a 12 bolt with the aluminum cap so it sticks out little further then the stock one.It looks like I have to remove the phb and the rear sway bar to get the cap off.or at least lossen up the rear sway bar.Thanx for the advice again though will open it up eventually to do a visual.
Sorry again man
One possible idea though, if you put the frame up on jackstands, you can use the jack to raise the axle up and down and this will move the PHB out of the way of some of the bolts. Might save you a couple minutes.... or it might take you longer than just taking the PHB off.... Depends on how fast you wrench.
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Well I got down and dirty with the rear I took the cover off found nothing wrong there with the naked eye could see.So what else could have caused this to happen?I did recently just had a clutch installed to.Lost