CAM Selection???
CAM Selection??? got an '02 SS A4 and im wanitn to install a CAM and a stall.
the car will already have full exhaust and intake
if i want to do a cam what all will i need besidesthe stall???
my buddy has a Patriot 231/237,595/595, 112 in his 2000 TA M6 and it sounds real nice and seems to perform pretty well. It hits a lick big time!!!
im wantin to go with a cam around that size, probably not any bigger and could be a hair smaller but not much at all cuz i still want it to lope pretty good
what do yall have in mind???
i wanna do it rite the first time even if it cost me
i was expecting the cam,stall,accesories,tune, and installation to be roughly $2000-$2500...
does that sound about rite???
the car will already have full exhaust and intake
if i want to do a cam what all will i need besidesthe stall???
my buddy has a Patriot 231/237,595/595, 112 in his 2000 TA M6 and it sounds real nice and seems to perform pretty well. It hits a lick big time!!!
im wantin to go with a cam around that size, probably not any bigger and could be a hair smaller but not much at all cuz i still want it to lope pretty good
what do yall have in mind???
i wanna do it rite the first time even if it cost me
i was expecting the cam,stall,accesories,tune, and installation to be roughly $2000-$2500...
does that sound about rite???
www.futralmotorsports.com
I'd suggest the F13 or F14.
A cam "package" (pushrods, springs, retainers, cam) is around $700. That doesn't include the gasket set ($100ish) and timing chain ($100ish) If you're going to get the LS6 intake manifold, look at another $500. Longtube headers? Another $500 or so dollars. The converter is about $500-700. You're going to want a shift-kit and gears, right? Dyno tune is also a few hundred dollars.
You'd better double that price estimation.
Mike
I'd suggest the F13 or F14.
A cam "package" (pushrods, springs, retainers, cam) is around $700. That doesn't include the gasket set ($100ish) and timing chain ($100ish) If you're going to get the LS6 intake manifold, look at another $500. Longtube headers? Another $500 or so dollars. The converter is about $500-700. You're going to want a shift-kit and gears, right? Dyno tune is also a few hundred dollars.
You'd better double that price estimation.
Mike
Thats a great pic in your sig, kraest!
Anyway, 1le, i too would suggest an f-13 on a 114, 112 if you want more lope. by saying you have full exhaust, I assume you have LT headers. If you can, do the install yourself and save huge ammounts of money, especially the cam...
Anyway, 1le, i too would suggest an f-13 on a 114, 112 if you want more lope. by saying you have full exhaust, I assume you have LT headers. If you can, do the install yourself and save huge ammounts of money, especially the cam...
well... thinkin of goin with
-F13
-MTI C1 or C2
not real sure on cam or stall yet???
its a daily driver and its automatic so......
i just want good all around performance with some good power and a lopey idle
maybe somewhat aggressive but not too crazy
i just dont want to put a cam in that is too big or a bad selection where i am constantly havin problems
just want to install it and set everything up and not have to mess with it too much
basically just tryin to setup a good street car with decent power
-F13
-MTI C1 or C2
not real sure on cam or stall yet???
its a daily driver and its automatic so......
i just want good all around performance with some good power and a lopey idle
maybe somewhat aggressive but not too crazy
i just dont want to put a cam in that is too big or a bad selection where i am constantly havin problems
just want to install it and set everything up and not have to mess with it too much
basically just tryin to setup a good street car with decent power
Originally Posted by 1LE LS1
well... thinkin of goin with
-F13
-MTI C1 or C2
not real sure on cam or stall yet???
its a daily driver and its automatic so......
i just want good all around performance with some good power and a lopey idle
maybe somewhat aggressive but not too crazy
i just dont want to put a cam in that is too big or a bad selection where i am constantly havin problems
just want to install it and set everything up and not have to mess with it too much
basically just tryin to setup a good street car with decent power
-F13
-MTI C1 or C2
not real sure on cam or stall yet???
its a daily driver and its automatic so......
i just want good all around performance with some good power and a lopey idle
maybe somewhat aggressive but not too crazy
i just dont want to put a cam in that is too big or a bad selection where i am constantly havin problems
just want to install it and set everything up and not have to mess with it too much
basically just tryin to setup a good street car with decent power
f13 or f9 sounds good
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Originally Posted by Kraest
www.futralmotorsports.com
I'd suggest the F13 or F14.
A cam "package" (pushrods, springs, retainers, cam) is around $700. That doesn't include the gasket set ($100ish) and timing chain ($100ish) If you're going to get the LS6 intake manifold, look at another $500. Longtube headers? Another $500 or so dollars. The converter is about $500-700. You're going to want a shift-kit and gears, right? Dyno tune is also a few hundred dollars.
You'd better double that price estimation.
Mike
I'd suggest the F13 or F14.
A cam "package" (pushrods, springs, retainers, cam) is around $700. That doesn't include the gasket set ($100ish) and timing chain ($100ish) If you're going to get the LS6 intake manifold, look at another $500. Longtube headers? Another $500 or so dollars. The converter is about $500-700. You're going to want a shift-kit and gears, right? Dyno tune is also a few hundred dollars.
You'd better double that price estimation.
Mike
the F13 seems to be the most popluar choice from most of the people i have talked to
but i am still lookin into it
when i do the cam, i plan on doin everything while im at it except for gears and a shift kit
but i may have the gears before i do it not sure yet
and im still unsure about a tune
but i am still lookin into it
when i do the cam, i plan on doin everything while im at it except for gears and a shift kit
but i may have the gears before i do it not sure yet
and im still unsure about a tune
Originally Posted by 1LE LS1
well... thinkin of goin with
-F13
-MTI C1 or C2
not real sure on cam or stall yet???
its a daily driver and its automatic so......
i just want good all around performance with some good power and a lopey idle
maybe somewhat aggressive but not too crazy
i just dont want to put a cam in that is too big or a bad selection where i am constantly havin problems
just want to install it and set everything up and not have to mess with it too much
basically just tryin to setup a good street car with decent power
-F13
-MTI C1 or C2
not real sure on cam or stall yet???
its a daily driver and its automatic so......
i just want good all around performance with some good power and a lopey idle
maybe somewhat aggressive but not too crazy
i just dont want to put a cam in that is too big or a bad selection where i am constantly havin problems
just want to install it and set everything up and not have to mess with it too much
basically just tryin to setup a good street car with decent power
Of course, If you plan to upgrade to stage 2 heads someday, then the F13 may not be a bad choice. But for the street and stcok heads, I would chose the C2.
Originally Posted by 10SECDWS6
IMO, the C2 would be a much better cam for you. That F13 looks too aggressive for the heads your are using (I'm assuming your using stock heads).
Mike
Originally Posted by Kraest
I'm using the stock unported heads and the F-15. How is the F-13 too aggressive?
Mike
Mike
Because you have way too much lift for your heads. There is only so much flow that you can stuff through that little area between your valve stem and your port id. Increasing the lift of your cam does nothing. You might get some power from the added duration, but not much. And you will lose more on the bottom end of the power band. Again, this is just my opinion. If you do the research, you will find plenty of people w/ stock heads, and a baby cam that are making just as much power as you are. It also cracks me up to see guys picking these monster cams and using them w/ stock heads. You gain very little if any. If you want a monster cam, you need the heads to match.
Originally Posted by 10SECDWS6
Because you have way too much lift for your heads. There is only so much flow that you can stuff through that little area between your valve stem and your port id. Increasing the lift of your cam does nothing. You might get some power from the added duration, but not much. And you will lose more on the bottom end of the power band. Again, this is just my opinion. If you do the research, you will find plenty of people w/ stock heads, and a baby cam that are making just as much power as you are. It also cracks me up to see guys picking these monster cams and using them w/ stock heads. You gain very little if any. If you want a monster cam, you need the heads to match.
The fastest cam-only car is a 24x/24x duration cam who dynoed 440+ to the wheels. Guess he should have gone with the 220/220.
Mike
TECH Senior Member
Joined: Mar 2004
Posts: 14,620
Likes: 17
From: BFE
Originally Posted by Kraest
My car will make 430ish rwhp with all the bolt-ons (aftermarket TB, underdrive pulley, etc.) And that's through the IRS/Vette Drivetrain. Show me another Vette that made more than that with cam-only who had a baby cam. That's what I thought. Kthxbye.
The fastest cam-only car is a 24x/24x duration cam who dynoed 440+ to the wheels. Guess he should have gone with the 220/220.
Mike
The fastest cam-only car is a 24x/24x duration cam who dynoed 440+ to the wheels. Guess he should have gone with the 220/220.
Mike
Originally Posted by HPT
A new naturally aspirated stock internal LS1 record has been set. Keith is the first to go 10's with a 10.98@119 on a 1.42 60'. The car is a 97 firebird shell with an LS1 transplant and a radical open loop speed density tune using nothing more than an Enhanced IO interface cable and version 1.5 of HP Tuners VCM Suite.
This is just an exemple of the many ways to get power and that a big cam is not the only answer. COMBO is
Last edited by PREDATOR-Z; Jun 3, 2005 at 08:17 AM.
Originally Posted by 10SECDWS6
Because you have way too much lift for your heads. There is only so much flow that you can stuff through that little area between your valve stem and your port id. Increasing the lift of your cam does nothing. You might get some power from the added duration, but not much. And you will lose more on the bottom end of the power band. Again, this is just my opinion. If you do the research, you will find plenty of people w/ stock heads, and a baby cam that are making just as much power as you are. It also cracks me up to see guys picking these monster cams and using them w/ stock heads. You gain very little if any. If you want a monster cam, you need the heads to match.
TECH Resident
iTrader: (6)
Joined: Apr 2004
Posts: 795
Likes: 0
From: The other, other, other A-Town, NM
Originally Posted by 10SECDWS6
Because you have way too much lift for your heads. There is only so much flow that you can stuff through that little area between your valve stem and your port id. Increasing the lift of your cam does nothing. You might get some power from the added duration, but not much. And you will lose more on the bottom end of the power band. Again, this is just my opinion. If you do the research, you will find plenty of people w/ stock heads, and a baby cam that are making just as much power as you are. It also cracks me up to see guys picking these monster cams and using them w/ stock heads. You gain very little if any. If you want a monster cam, you need the heads to match.
I'd put on your flame suit if I was you, because you're about to get flamed.
