Generation III Internal Engine 1997-2006 LS1 | LS6
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View Poll Results: 383 all stroke or bore or both
stroke
10
30.30%
bore
9
27.27%
both
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42.42%
Voters: 33. You may not vote on this poll

all stroke or all bore or both

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Old Jun 10, 2005 | 10:02 AM
  #1  
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Default all stroke or all bore or both

im looking into turning my 346 into a 383....

and i dont know if it has to be all stroke or all bore or can it be both...

any ways what should i do...

looking into the lunati setup... since get killer prices from all holley associated businesses
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Old Jun 10, 2005 | 10:06 AM
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It all depends on what you want to spend. I'm going with the 402 LS2 Stroker from SDPC
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Old Jun 10, 2005 | 10:06 AM
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A 383 is a combo of both bore and stroke. On an LS1 block you would bore it .030 over and use a 4" crank. If you were going to go with one or the other for some reason, all bore is better than all stroke b/c with all bore you get the extra cubes.
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Old Jun 10, 2005 | 10:19 AM
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What about the block itself though. I have been told that the LS1 block can only take .010 at MOST. Is this true? Or are you assuming he will re-sleeve the block. I am curious because I want to bore my block .030, but was told it is REAL expensive to get it re-sleeved.
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Old Jun 10, 2005 | 10:52 AM
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I would resleeve it for safety's sake. It may cost a bit but we're talking about saving your engine from total carnage after you throw in about 2-3k of mods at once.
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Old Jun 10, 2005 | 11:17 AM
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If you were going to bore it out, then go with the 408, 418 or 427, especially if you have the hook up like I did. They cost the same, so if you are resleeving, go as big as you can. I now wish I would have spent the extra money and gone with the 427.

If you dont have the extra $2400 for the resleeve, then a 383 Lunati stroker would be good. I went with the 396 (395) but people say that the life isnt as long a the wrist pins are up into the rings. If you want to go really insane, Lunati makes a 454 rotating ***'y

What year is your block? 2000 and later let you go .010" over. I have a 97 Vette block, so I'm only allowed a .004" clean up hone. After talking to a couple of guys on here that went over to 3.905 with the early blocks, and verifying that they havent had any problems, I decided to too. I just cant go with a power adder now :S.
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Old Jun 10, 2005 | 11:22 AM
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mines a 02 z

guessing its an 02 block
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Old Jun 10, 2005 | 11:23 AM
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Originally Posted by ArcticZ28
A 383 is a combo of both bore and stroke. On an LS1 block you would bore it .030 over and use a 4" crank. If you were going to go with one or the other for some reason, all bore is better than all stroke b/c with all bore you get the extra cubes.

Wrong.

A LS1 383 equals a hone to a 3.905" bore along with a 4" stroke crankshaft. No need to resleeve or anything like that.


You get extra cubes either way. Either with an increased stroke or an increased bore.
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Old Jun 10, 2005 | 12:08 PM
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You can also get a 383 with a stock stroke and a 4.080 bore:
https://ls1tech.com/forums/showpost....8&postcount=10

but as mentioned, if you were doing that, build a 418 or 427 or something else.

The 02 block will work fine for the regular (non bored kit) and 4.125 stroker. you can go with a 383 or 395 like I did. The 383 will probably be more reliable.
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Old Jun 10, 2005 | 12:15 PM
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Let me rephrase... with all bore you will be able to get more HP out of it, in that with the bigger bore you can also match the heads up and therefore run bigger valves flowing more air/fuel. With all stroke, you are still limited to the stock bore size, and it can be argued that you may not be able to rev as high with the longer piston travel.
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Old Jun 10, 2005 | 12:21 PM
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If you are going to resleeve (more $$$) than stroke and bore.

A 383 stroker is very nice and more than you can handle on the street. Also keep in mind that when you go bore you'll need to upgrade the heads to stage III (more $$$).

So a 383 stroker is more cost efficient, hassle free, and the power difference is minimal vs cost.
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Old Jun 10, 2005 | 12:37 PM
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ok... it looks like ill be rounding up some parts for a 3.905 bore and a 4.000 stroke....

I know ill need:

pistons
rods
crank

which rotating ***'y would you guys suggest?

with the 3.905 bore what heads would you suggest?
keep in mind im looking for about 11.5-12 CR
or whatever the highest is i could run on 93....

I plan on this being a N/A motor while running on the street and bracket racing....

But i plan to put a 200-300 DP shot on it with a stand alone full of 100+ fuel so that if i come across any stout heads up competition I'll be ready

PRED,

what do you think about this?
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Old Jun 10, 2005 | 12:49 PM
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If you have the connections, then get the kit from them.
The EA035-383 kit will give you 10.6:1
The EA035-382 kit will give you 10.6:1
The EA036-383 kit will give you 12.5:1

http://holley.com/HiOctn/ProdLine/Pr..._LS6Rotat.html

The kit was the way to go, I'm not sure if they show the love for everyone or just me because of my hook up, but everything measurement and check has been right on! My kit came with the King Alecular bearings too.

I'm, obviously, not allowed to say what I paid, but when checking with them and Eagle (who I also had hook ups with), the two discounted prices were about the same, so it was a no brainer. Other wise people tend to recommend Eagle at a lower price. But I have no negatives at all about the Lunati set up. I even went with their cam as I didn't know what was what in cams at the time, and I figured they would make a good cam for their ***'y. The cam degreed perfectly, with my crude tools. I didn't use Cam Doctor or anything.

Good luck, and keep me up to date on your progress. Who knows at the rate its taken me, you might have yours done before me

D

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Old Jun 10, 2005 | 12:49 PM
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Originally Posted by ty_ty13
ok... it looks like ill be rounding up some parts for a 3.905 bore and a 4.000 stroke....

I know ill need:

pistons
rods
crank

which rotating ***'y would you guys suggest?

with the 3.905 bore what heads would you suggest?
keep in mind im looking for about 11.5-12 CR
or whatever the highest is i could run on 93....

I plan on this being a N/A motor while running on the street and bracket racing....

But i plan to put a 200-300 DP shot on it with a stand alone full of 100+ fuel so that if i come across any stout heads up competition I'll be ready

PRED,

what do you think about this?
Since this car is gona be run on 93 id stick to around 11.0-11.5 on the compression.
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Old Jun 10, 2005 | 01:23 PM
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I work next door to a Holley(and lunati) Wholesale dist, So let me know what you might want(gimme the part numbers) and I can get you a good price! That goes for anyone, spread the word!
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Old Jun 10, 2005 | 01:33 PM
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Originally Posted by MW2 Performance
I work next door to a Holley(and lunati) Wholesale dist, So let me know what you might want(gimme the part numbers) and I can get you a good price! That goes for anyone, spread the word!
welcome to the board BTW.
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Old Jun 10, 2005 | 02:07 PM
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All bore use the extra cyl size for some killer head flow and the shorter stroke for RPM that will build a bad combo right heads and cam should be 600 on motor that spins 7000-7500

Nate
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Old Jun 10, 2005 | 02:07 PM
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Originally Posted by MW2 Performance
I work next door to a Holley(and lunati) Wholesale dist, So let me know what you might want(gimme the part numbers) and I can get you a good price! That goes for anyone, spread the word!
Where is that? I work up the road a bit in Pacoima. Always nice to know about a "local connection"

welcome, welcome
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Old Jun 10, 2005 | 03:30 PM
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Originally Posted by Nasty N8
All bore use the extra cyl size for some killer head flow and the shorter stroke for RPM that will build a bad combo right heads and cam should be 600 on motor that spins 7000-7500

Nate
at what RPM does the LS1 start running into oiling problems from there not ebing enough left in the pan.
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Old Jun 10, 2005 | 03:46 PM
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Originally Posted by Nasty N8
All bore use the extra cyl size for some killer head flow and the shorter stroke for RPM that will build a bad combo right heads and cam should be 600 on motor that spins 7000-7500

Nate
I second this! Go all-bore!
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