Biggest Cam with LS6 (243) heads milled .030"?
06-17-2005, 08:49 PM
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Biggest Cam with LS6 (243) heads milled .030"? Anyone care to take an educated guess at the biggest cam that would fit with a set of LS6 (243) heads that have been milled .030", 2.02/1.57 valves? --and with what gasket thickness?--
Would be bolting onto an '02 Firehawk.
Tried the search, didn't find much direct info pertaining to milled LS6 heads.
TIA ! ! !
Would be bolting onto an '02 Firehawk.
Tried the search, didn't find much direct info pertaining to milled LS6 heads.
TIA ! ! !
06-18-2005, 10:05 AM
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without claying I would keep the lift under .590 on both sides and I would also verify the amount of the milling just to be sure.
as far as the duration there are lobes available to give you some big duartion and still keep the lift down
as far as the duration there are lobes available to give you some big duartion and still keep the lift down
06-18-2005, 10:06 AM
#6
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With GM graphite or any other .054 gaskets, you could go as high as FM11 on a 114
228/230.
And claying is soo innacurate with LSx, proper method is a Dial Indicator
228/230.
And claying is soo innacurate with LSx, proper method is a Dial Indicator
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06-18-2005, 12:55 PM
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And claying is soo innacurate with LSx, proper method is a Dial Indicator
or cam someone explain the process of using a dial.
Thanks.
06-18-2005, 01:09 PM
#9
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This is from a previous post:
Originally Posted by PREDATOR-Z
Your not checking the PtoV clearance at max lift, you need to check it during the camshaft overlap period. For instance if your checking cylinder #1 your overlap would be really close to where the timing chain dots line up. You set the valvetrain to zero lash with both valves closed, your cam gear timing mark will be at 12 o clock, overlap occurs 360 crank degrees from that, or 180 cam degrees, so overlap would be when the upper timing gear is at 6 o clock. Check intake and exhaust 10 degrees before TDC and 10 degrees after TDC during overlap and everywhere in between.
I usually put the dial indicator against a retainer and have it clamped to a long metric bolt using rocker arm threads, usually from the next cylinder over (#3). You zero the guage when you make piston contact with the valve by pushing the valve open, then when you let it go, that reading is your clearance.
Tools needed:
1-dial indicator
2-very light valve spring int/exhaust (to get a more accurate reading)
I usually put the dial indicator against a retainer and have it clamped to a long metric bolt using rocker arm threads, usually from the next cylinder over (#3). You zero the guage when you make piston contact with the valve by pushing the valve open, then when you let it go, that reading is your clearance.
Tools needed:
1-dial indicator
2-very light valve spring int/exhaust (to get a more accurate reading)
06-18-2005, 01:24 PM
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Very cool...I think.
How do you calculate the clearance between the valve open and the piston
crown?
From what I understand, this method is going to give you the total valve movement
before contact,
but not necessarily the clearance.
Is there an accurate method to calculate valve lift at that point in time and
subtract the dial reading to get clearance?
How do you calculate the clearance between the valve open and the piston
crown?
From what I understand, this method is going to give you the total valve movement
before contact,
but not necessarily the clearance.
Is there an accurate method to calculate valve lift at that point in time and
subtract the dial reading to get clearance?
06-18-2005, 03:28 PM
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Smokin' article!
I'd be hard pressed to give up my quick and dirty clay for a high clearance street engine,
but I'll keep that link in my back pocket if I ever build a big cam strip killer.
I'd be hard pressed to give up my quick and dirty clay for a high clearance street engine,
but I'll keep that link in my back pocket if I ever build a big cam strip killer.
06-18-2005, 04:08 PM
#15
Yeah I like that article too and I was like OMG that is a long dam way to do that...
I still like the clay in a simple off the shelf forged piston situation where there is usually more clearance than you need anyways.... once something comes in contact thats when I get out the dial indicator and figure out what to do.
Bret
I still like the clay in a simple off the shelf forged piston situation where there is usually more clearance than you need anyways.... once something comes in contact thats when I get out the dial indicator and figure out what to do.
Bret
06-18-2005, 05:43 PM
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I should have clarified.... Thanks for the responses thus far!
No flycutting of the pistons...
I'm looking at using a 224/224 .581" 114LSA +2 deg advance on XE-R lobes.
No flycutting of the pistons...
I'm looking at using a 224/224 .581" 114LSA +2 deg advance on XE-R lobes.
06-18-2005, 07:40 PM
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Originally Posted by JZ'sTA
Probally around a 230/232.
That might even be a bit big.
I know for a fact a 224/228 581/589 113LSA will work as I have used this combo a couple times.
That might even be a bit big.
I know for a fact a 224/228 581/589 113LSA will work as I have used this combo a couple times.
With .030" milled LS6 heads? Wow - I was thinking a 224/224 114LSA was going to be extremely tight.....(?)
