conan

iTrader: (5)

I want to switch my arp head bolts for studs. I just built the motor and I don't want to take the heads off. Can I start with The #1 bolt in the torque sequence replace it with a stud Torque it, and move on down the line one at a time. Any one see a problem with this?

Adrenaline_Z

I'm not going to give an opinion, I'm more interested in why you want to swap
to studs after the motor has been assembled?

conan

iTrader: (5)

I was talking with mikey at rapid motor sports about tuning my car and he warned me that the arp head bolts don't seat right all the time. I dont want to run the risk of lifting the heads although I havent heard of this problem with the bolts untill now. I'm going to be running 10-12 psi of boost BTW. Any more imput.

conan

iTrader: (5)

ttt no one has ever done this? or cares to comment?

firefighter

I've done it on old style SBC no problem buut I don't know with the LS1 deep skirt all aluminum yada yada yada.

PREDATOR-Z

Heads have to come off.

conan

iTrader: (5)

Thanks guys, Should I consider the switch or leave the bolts and retorque when I put the blower on.

PREDATOR-Z

For 10-12 psi, I would Yank those heads. Well worth the time IMO.
What gaskets are you running?
You can also benefit from adjusting your quench to tight to reduce detonation and better flame travel. .030>.035 if your PTV allows it.
What is your actual SCR/DCR

conan

iTrader: (5)

Cometics .054, 9.1-1 compression ratio

PREDATOR-Z

I would run a .040, or .042, you'll gain 0.2 SCR but your squish will negate that increase.
You have dished pistons?
What size chambers on your heads? (2E LS6/5.3/LS1?)

conan

iTrader: (5)

Mahle pistons 3.908 bore 3.622 stroke -1cc releif in pistions Heads mti 2e lq9/6.0l 72cc

dragonZ28

iTrader: (32)

The only reason you may have to pull the heads is to properly clean the threads in the block. You could just pull all of the bolts out, and install the studs without removing the heads and making a mess. There is an allen key on top of the ARP studs that you could use to put a little torque on them. Then you could put the nut and washer on the head studs and torque them down to spec with the moly lube. Again, you will be running the risk of having debris in the threads, and you can possibly cause damage and end up pulling a motor if you're not careful.

The dowels will hold the head on the block even when the bolts are out. The gasket should hold all of the fluid in unless you tug on the head. All in all, I would recommend pulling the heads just to be safe.

conan

iTrader: (5)

Thans for the info wish I would of studed it when I had the engine on the stand Guess I'll be pulling the heads.