I was just wondering what cam degreeing kits you guys recommend? I just ordered some prc 2.5's and their 233/239 camshaft and i want to make sure I get the cam installed and timed in right. I have been looking at the comp kit that Scoggin Dickey sells, has anyone used this kit? Thanks guys!

 

Try Proform kit.... very inexpensive ($50) or so, and can be found on e-bay...

 

Does it work very well with our heads and everything?

 

oh yea, absolutely...it's just a wheel and a dial pointer....It's pretty much universal for all engines.

 

Do you have an adjustable timing set? The stock timing set is NOT adjustable. Long story short, a degree kit's really a mute point if you can't adjust the timing on the cam gear. Unless the cam is calling for an advance on install, putting it in "straight up" with the cam and crank gear holes aligned should suffice. The degree kit wil allow you to "check" the cam to insure it's ground as specified, but you can not correct for anything with the stock timing gears.

For degree kits, the Comp Cams 4796 works well.

 

Yeah, Trevor down at TSP hooked me up with a prc heads/cam combo so i went ahead and got the Rollmaster double roller timing chain and a bunch of other stuff with it, and my cam calls for 1 degree advance. I can't wait to get this **** in, I got the stage 2.5 5.3's with the 233/239 revision 2 cam!

 

Oh I checked ebay and those Pro Form degree kits are going for ~85 bucks if you use the buy it now option. I'm probably going to get one of those and try 'er out.

 

I just thought of another question. You guys that own pulley pullers, which one did you buy for the harmonic balancer and where did you get it? I might as well buy one because I doubt this is going to be the last time I do this, I got the mod bug!

 

I pieced together a degree kit from different sources. Probably cheaper to buy a kit. One thing I noticed on the Proform fixtures for the dial indicator is it comes with 7/16" and 1/2" threaded convertors. Nothing metric. You are on your own to come up with a way to mount it to the engine. Magnetic bases are available but you will have to make a steel plate to bolt to the aluminum engine. Also, the smaller diameter degree wheels are better to use if you are leaving the engine in. The 8" wheels are perfect. They are slightly less accurate than say a 16", but you don't have enough room with the a/c compressor and other junk on front of the engine to mount a big degree wheel. The pulley puller I have that works is a Craftsman 3-jaw model #46906. It will do inside and outside pulls. Get a name brand puller, cost a little more but it will last forever.

 

Thanks for all of the advise man, your car wrenching knowledge has helped me out a lot lately!