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Going to swap out heads, questions

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Old 07-22-2005, 02:17 PM
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Default Going to swap out heads, questions

I read indepth the Headswap for the LS1 on LS1howto and definetely going to do this weekend or next, as I just received my new AFR 205cc heads.

I was doing alot of searching on the forums and noticed one person mention about how he removed the heads without having the coolant flow all over the place, he mentioned something about using a shop vac to suck it out before hand. How can this be done?

I know the most tedious part is cleaning the bolt to make sure no bolt gets hydrolocked. Just wondering if I can get around that if the above works in removing the head without collant spilling out. Only reason I hate that is that then I got coolant all over the block, cradle, and then garage floor and just a pain to clean up the block with all the coolant. I know I can let it burn off, but Im kind of a stickler there and just hate seeing it go all over the block for no reason.

Any help on this swap would be appreciated.

Dixit
Old 07-22-2005, 02:20 PM
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I don't think anyone has successfully accomplished the idea of not letting coolant get into the bolt holes.
Old 07-22-2005, 02:36 PM
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That would be me.

I realy dont care about water getting on the block i hate cleaning it out of bolt holes and the jugs.

When you pull the water pump you will see 4 holes 2 on each side. One on the head and one on the block on both sides. Take your shopvac or wet dry vac. Put it up to the holes on the block and heads and suck the water straight out of the block do this for about a min per side or untell you can tell that water has stopped coming out of the block and heads. Now unbolt the heads and pull them out there should be no water anywhere if done right. I would sugjest running a V cut bolt done each hole just to clean out the locktight crap they put on the bolts. This will also tell your if there is any water in the bolt holes.

Justin
Old 07-22-2005, 03:03 PM
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Good deal, I will give that a go then. Thanks

Dixit
Old 01-26-2006, 11:30 AM
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Has anyone else tried this?

Thanks
Old 01-27-2006, 12:26 AM
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bump ttt
Old 01-27-2006, 06:32 AM
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I plan to do the same thing with my Miti-vac and fluid transfer kit. That way, I can stick the hose down deep and empty out most of the heads and block before removing the heads. I am hoping to minimize the mess and the amount that spills into the holes and cylinders.

Haven't tried it yet though
Old 01-27-2006, 07:03 AM
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Without tilting the engine, it's difficult to get the water below the level of the deck before removing the heads. However, using compressed air and a 'cleaning bolt' (ground flat on two sides) does a very good job at getting the bolt holes clean again. The cleaning process is tedious, and will probably take a couples hours to complete. But it's not something you want to rush.
Old 01-27-2006, 07:21 AM
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When I did my heads back in December I kept reading about this being a painful part of the head installation process. What I did was back out all the bolts on the heads about a 1/4 inch and then lifted the head(s) off the block and held it there while all the colant flowed out. When I removed the head(s) completely, there was still a little coolant in the holes. I inserted lengths of wooden dowel wrapped in paper towel, jammed all the way to the bottom of the holes and let it sit over night. The next morning I pulled the dowel/paper towels out and they had absorbed all the remaining moisture. I did re-check each hole, though. I got this idea from a fellow board member.
Old 01-27-2006, 02:29 PM
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Good tips guys, anyone that has done the shop vac method?
Old 01-27-2006, 02:45 PM
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Just run a shop paper towel down in the bolt holes as well as anything to get all substances out of there.
Old 01-27-2006, 02:47 PM
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Wow, this thread is old....I didnt think that the search would allow it to go back 6 months!
Old 01-27-2006, 02:58 PM
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i had it in my favorites lol, search was castrated.
Old 01-27-2006, 02:59 PM
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That is the second time that I have heard the "castrated" term today about the search function.
Old 01-27-2006, 03:36 PM
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Bass i use it and it works perfectly. Yet i an the one that thought it up.
Old 01-27-2006, 03:57 PM
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goober, I was just getting ready to send you a PM. It seems like such a good and simple idea, so I thought id see if anyone else tried ur method out.

Basically once the water pump is off just suck out of the holes....any other little tricks?

Sounds like cleaning the holes out is time consuming, but I really don't want antifreeze all over everywhere under the hood and garage floor. Plus antifreeze/glycol just makes things rust and squeak. I know there will be enough from taking the hoses and water pump off, but at least I can attempt to catch that mess.

Thanks
Old 01-27-2006, 04:19 PM
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If you will get a 8qt pan and put it right next to the frame on the passanger side right next to the water pump you will catch 80% of the water that comes out ofthe water pump and hoses.

I did not have any water in any of the bolt holes but i still ran the flat cut bolt down every bolt hole and a towel down them also.

Do not unbolt the heads untell you suck out the water. just an fyi
Old 01-27-2006, 05:05 PM
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But, if you have never pulled the heads get ready to have all that stock gasket **** down in the holes.
Old 01-27-2006, 06:36 PM
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what is a flat cut bolt?
Old 01-27-2006, 07:28 PM
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Originally Posted by 35thls1ss19
what is a flat cut bolt?
You take one of the old head bolts and grind flat two sides of the bolt. Take the bolt and screw it back into each of the bolt holes in the block. Do this about three times for each hole. As you do this you'll see that the bolt will pick up all the gunk that was in the threads. Its the same idea as a thread tap, just you won't be cutting material away, you'll be cleaning it out.



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