***Introducing our Vacuum Pump ***
#41
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At first thought $800 seems expensive but how many have spent $900 for a FAST manifold and another $400-$500 for a throttle body for 15-20hp? How many have spent $500 for an electric water pump for 5hp?
#42
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Originally Posted by ArKay99
At first thought $800 seems expensive but how many have spent $900 for a FAST manifold and another $400-$500 for a throttle body for 15-20hp? How many have spent $500 for an electric water pump for 5hp?
#43
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Originally Posted by TAQuickness
How hard would it be to fit this unit into the F-Bod AC location?
Re: the cost
With nothing (or not much) available, I bought a pump and parts from someplace and fabricated my own brackets. IIRC, I spent about 600. That includes a pulley for the stock AC belt. If you used a v-belt it would be less expensive, but I didn't want to fab something to bolt on to the front of the damper. Seemed like it would be difficult to get it centered and keep it that way.
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Don't know if it has been mentioned but remember if you are runniing an underdrive crank pulley the pump will be turning slower. Might need a couple different pulley sizes to compensate.
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Originally Posted by BUYAMERICAN
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Originally Posted by Larry
Don't know if it has been mentioned but remember if you are runniing an underdrive crank pulley the pump will be turning slower. Might need a couple different pulley sizes to compensate.
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if you were to run a stock shortblock with a blower cam and 6.0L heads on say, 9psi, do you think this type of pump would help hold everything together for longer before it falls apart? the ringlands are usually the first to go.
#51
Originally Posted by Tuner@AandACorvette
They better let the rest of the ProStock field know so they can remove their pumps and not qualify, too!
I always like these responses. I did not write that four page article. I am actually looking at one units myself, but unless the vacuum is controlled by a valve in certain range it useless and possible dangerous in street car with a wet sump in my opinion. Some the aftermarket units have such a measure.
http://www.dragstuff.com/techarticles/vacuum-pumps.html
Those Prostock motors are taken apart in one to five runs. So less than a minute under full load at best. They also run at 9,000-10,000 rpm's WITH DRYSUMPS, so the varibles are completely different than any application here and the benefits are exponentially greater.
Not withstanding, there is problem with "oil comsumption" on these LS motors. It is nice to see someone addressing it beyond a catch can or Accusump.
There are a couple other ways to address the problem as well. The irony is that OEM smog pumps do actually serve a benefit and that every non-EPA compliant header does not provide for them. They are the first thing we junk in hot rodding. Food for thought.
Last edited by BUYAMERICAN; 07-27-2005 at 01:19 PM. Reason: Poor grammer. Sorry, I am very tired.
#53
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Originally Posted by BUYAMERICAN
Sorry Charlie,
I always like these responses. I did not write that four page article. I am actually looking at one units myself, but unless the vacuum is controlled by a valve in certain range it useless and possible dangerous in street car with a wet sump in my opinion. Some the aftermarket units have such a measure.
http://www.dragstuff.com/techarticles/vacuum-pumps.html
Those Prostock motors are taken apart in one to five runs. So less than a minute under full load at best. They also run at 9,000-10,000 rpm's WITH DRYSUMPS, so the varibles are completely different than any application here and the benefits are exponentially greater.
Not withstanding, there is problem with "oil comsumption" on these LS motors. It is nice to see someone addressing it beyond a catch can or Accusump.
There are a couple other ways to address the problem as well. The irony is that OEM smog pumps do actually serve a benefit and that every non-EPA compliant header does not provide for them. They are the first thing we junk in hot rodding. Food for thought.
I always like these responses. I did not write that four page article. I am actually looking at one units myself, but unless the vacuum is controlled by a valve in certain range it useless and possible dangerous in street car with a wet sump in my opinion. Some the aftermarket units have such a measure.
http://www.dragstuff.com/techarticles/vacuum-pumps.html
Those Prostock motors are taken apart in one to five runs. So less than a minute under full load at best. They also run at 9,000-10,000 rpm's WITH DRYSUMPS, so the varibles are completely different than any application here and the benefits are exponentially greater.
Not withstanding, there is problem with "oil comsumption" on these LS motors. It is nice to see someone addressing it beyond a catch can or Accusump.
There are a couple other ways to address the problem as well. The irony is that OEM smog pumps do actually serve a benefit and that every non-EPA compliant header does not provide for them. They are the first thing we junk in hot rodding. Food for thought.
We control the max vacuum through a separate, adjustable regulator on the Performance model and an integral, adjustable regulator on the race model.
Thanks,
Charlie
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Ya guys think it would help much on a 12.65 compression 402 nitrous motor... with a small street solid roller( will be upgraded later but I'm just gunna see how it works for now)? What kind of vacuum would be recommended with this engine? Its going to see a good bit of street racing action, not much actual street driving, and a good bit of track action.
Josh S.
Josh S.
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Originally Posted by VTESPEED
wow...talk about over priced from having monopoly on the market right now.
I'll build my own for a 1/4 of the price..
Buttttt very nice piece.
I'll build my own for a 1/4 of the price..
Buttttt very nice piece.