Superman09

iTrader: (65)

Hello. well i have been searching and could only find threads on what cams do. I am trying to find out which cam is best for me and my needs/wants. So i guess ill jsut ask away and hopefully a few guys can agree on which is best for me. This car is a daily driver...I want a very nice deep rumble sound at idle. And since i no cams perform up top, I jsut want the most powerful one i can get and still be streetable. I dont want to have to mess with anything else yet so nothing too major. I was hoping for maybe somehting to get me around 400 RWHP. I am getting LTs and intake before this so it will be able to breathe enough. So i really want some nice power but streetable without having to worry about problems. I want that nice rumble at idle. 400 HP ideal? Please pick a cam, thanks.

Schantin

iTrader: (6)

There are many good threads on this as well as the cam selection sticky guide. Asking for a cam recommendation is like asking for exhaust preference or a choice in underwear..... but I feel your pain as I was researching for a good 2 months before selecting my cam.

You said the car is a daily driver, you want a deep rumble, but you want 400RWHP. These don't totally coencide if you're using stock heads. For 400RWHP you'll want a fairly agressive cam with lots of duration and lift. This is't too street friendly. Many here seem to think bigger is better, recommending the F13, F14, F15!, T-rex, Magic Stick, etc. You will be quite unhappy driving these cams EVERY day...... especially in rush hour traffic. Unless you think bucking below 1800-2000RPM is cool as well as increased gas smell, rough idle, and loss of bottom end torque.

For a street daily driver, I'd suggest something in the 220-230 range with no less than a 112LSA and no more than .590 lift. I'm personally running a TR224 563/563 112LSA cam. This is the "default" cam for lazy people and daily drivers, as it's an all around performer cam.....whic was exactly what I wanted. Anyhow, idle is deeper, little bit of lope, minimal gas smell at idle.... and comes on HARD above 2700RPM. It will break the tires loose in 1st gear above 5K when hit from a rolling start (street start). Aside from the cam you'll need hardened pushrods, springs, (retainers), gaskets, etc.

As a side note....the TR224 was worth .35 and 5mph in the 1/4 for me, so that equates to about 35-40HP increase. This was with proper tuning. Getting the car dynoed next weekend, but guesses are that I'm putting out about 380 RWHP....as I trap at 110mph. I have LT's, catback, and intake too.

Hope this helps.

PREDATOR-Z

The most streetable high duration/lift cams are FUTRAL cams (Cam Motion grinds)
But you have to know that springs will have to be changed between 10>20K depending on the abuse.

I would recommend FM 11 + full bolt ons (headers, pulley, intake, TB, etc...) If you are M6 and a perfect tune, you'll be at 400rwhp.

Superman09

iTrader: (65)

Hey thanks for the help. They were very useful. I guess ill have to search more i guess. I can up empty last time on the info i wanted. So with all cams, you have to change the springs every 10k-20k miles? or jsut Futral Cams? Yea, well i wasnt too sure on what streetable cams give HP wise thats why I threw the ? mark out there at 400. Id be very happy with 375-380 ish. I jsut dont want to have any troubles running it o nthe street is thats where it will live and as low meintanence (sp?) or none if thats possible. Ill be getting a stall before this as i am an A4 so the low end power wont be a problem. I basically jsut want that nice rumble and friggen sweet sound cams make at idle, and some awesome power up top for DD. Thanks Post up all suggestions you have. So if i read that correctly, most guys go too big and in the street, theyd be stalling from too low of RPM's at traffic speeds?Traffic here isnt bad at all really but i never want to be stalling, lol. ThanksNothing too large, but nothing "weak" by any means. Just above middle of the pack.

Superman09

iTrader: (65)

Also what if i plan on going FI later on. I was looking at the D1SC kit. Now would a reg streetable cam n/a be way diff than a cam for FI? Should i jsut get a reg average cam for now and once i go FI, switch cams? Thanks

PREDATOR-Z

https://ls1tech.com/forums/generation-iii-internal-engine/361743-stock-motor-cam-only-373rwhp-375rwtq.html

Superman09

iTrader: (65)

1 more question.... Would it be a lot easier and much more beneficial (sp?) to get heads at the same time i get a cam? If so is getting a package a good deal? Im going to speed inc to get all this and have them install it all so i figure i could save a lot of installation if i get them both at once. Any combo that is killer for street use. I heard that AFR heads and patriot performance are the best. And futral and comp cams for cams? That correct?

Superman09

iTrader: (65)

Awesome, jsut the thread i was trying to find. Thanks

PREDATOR-Z

The best is a loose term.
If you have money then AFR are on top
Forget Patriot (too many recurring issues) crap shoot (I wouldn't do it, because I do not gamble)
There is also TEA for a good price, value and performance.
I, just got PRC but in process of installing, no performance data yet.

If money is an issue and you feel lucky Patriot has the lowest H/C package on the market at the present. There is a recent thread I think Gunnar quoted ~$1350 or so for a head /cam package.

BTW with A4 and stall H/C is the way to go to achieve 400+

Superman09

iTrader: (65)

Alright, well ill prolly dop them both at the same time than and do my research. Will a good NA H/C setup be ok to run a blower on or would it be a frigged up?

eallanboggs

iTrader: (1)

If all your after is a "nice deep rumble" then gut your cats. That'll get you there. 400 RWHP is another thing with only a cam, LTs and an aftermarket intake. You might get close, but why not add some CNCed heads while your doing the cam. You can save some time doing both jobs at once. Throw in some higher ratio roller tip rockers and you'll kick that 400 RWHP door down. Your only looking at an extra $1.5K to $2K. It's only money.

PREDATOR-Z

As long as the cam you choose is supercharger friendly (not reverse, with a 114lsa)

Superman09

iTrader: (65)

hmm ok, well i def plan on doing H/C now. I am undecided on supercharger. I really want to run 10s, b ut who doesnt? I know i will have to spray on top of the H/C or go FI but i am looking for 11's and over 400 RWHP with H/C streetable set up, and of course required tires/ suspension to run the 11's. Ill keep searching. Thanks

Superman09

iTrader: (65)

Hey predator. what H/C set up would you suggest for me. I want as much power i can get for nice Daily driver and not have to worry bout problems. I want a nice deep rumble at idle sound, and hopefully around 450 RWHP if thats possible with supporting mods for DD? Can you direct me to a nice set up? Thanks

blkZ28spt

You are a LONG way from putting a blower onto a heads/cam setup. Lots of suspension and drivetrain parts as well as forged internals before you will want to put a power adder onto a heads/cam LS1. Just get the heads/cam/bolt-ons with drivetrain and suspension mods to start and that will keep you busy for quite awhile.

Superman09

iTrader: (65)

Yea. thats what im def going for. I know the route, ive researched about everything. I jsut dont no which cam/head combo to choose. Can someone direct me to a nice set up?

Superman09

iTrader: (65)

Can someone direct me to a nice set up good for real nice power and daily driver car?

v8robert

Should be getting hold of my AFR 205 heads + FM 13,122 cam soon for my gd cobra replica, will post results of dyno as soon as i get them and video link of idle, reving + drive-by

From posting a similar post to yours, daily driver but also tracked car, this combo seemed to be universally commended.

Cheers
Goat boy

Superman09

iTrader: (65)

Ok thanks for the help. Ill check into the AFR 205's and the FM 13, 122 cam.