Taking the piston off the connecting rod
Taking the piston off the connecting rod How do you get the piston off the connecting rod? I dont see any clips holding it on. This is a stock connecting rod and piston. 02 motor
Does this require a special tool?
Does this require a special tool?
Originally Posted by Camaroguy
How do you get the piston off the connecting rod? I dont see any clips holding it on. This is a stock connecting rod and piston. 02 motor
Does this require a special tool?
Does this require a special tool?
stock rods are press fit, not floating.....you have to press the pins out........
toss both in the garbage and go get some good rods/pistons......
if i take the old pin out.. Knocking it out somehow.. Could this be done?
Can i re use the pin? If no, whats the part number for what ill be needing to get the piston back onto the new rod
Can i re use the pin? If no, whats the part number for what ill be needing to get the piston back onto the new rod
Do not try to use a vise to hold the rod and knock the pin out. By the time you get the rod held and start driving the pin you will bend the rod. Take them to a machine shop. There is a fixture that the piston and rod fit in. They will then press the pin out with a regular press.
sorry to hijack the thread but...i'm getting the my crank balanced along with a head/cam setup. is it worth keeping the stock rods/pistons? the motor only has 5000 miles on it. or...is there a recommended, relatively cheap route to go with aftermarket "stockish" rods?
Originally Posted by 01tam6
Do not try to use a vise to hold the rod and knock the pin out. By the time you get the rod held and start driving the pin you will bend the rod. Take them to a machine shop. There is a fixture that the piston and rod fit in. They will then press the pin out with a regular press.
Originally Posted by LS1FC3
sorry to hijack the thread but...i'm getting the my crank balanced along with a head/cam setup. is it worth keeping the stock rods/pistons? the motor only has 5000 miles on it. or...is there a recommended, relatively cheap route to go with aftermarket "stockish" rods?
so wait.....you have the engine apart anyways?
if so, toss the rods and pistons in the trash and get a set of forged rods and pistons.........yes the pistons and rings will run you about $700-$1000 but you will never brake them and will have a MUCH better sealing/running engine....
for rods, eagle makes a forged rod with floating pins for ~$500 and will take upwards of 800+ rwhp.......
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i will be taking it apart. i bought it after it had been torn down for inspection. since it all has to be put back together properly, i decided to get the crank balanced. i'm finding it very difficult to put forged rods/pistons in my budget. it might happen, though.
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Take the rods to the machine shop and have them removed, its usualy around 8 bucks a piece.
If you are not doing anything crazy like high boost FI, nitrous and contstant revs above 7k, stick with the stock rods, they are underrated imho and the pins can be reused. Just replace the rod bolts with katechs or ARPs. Get a set of Mahle Piston packs from one of the sponors here for around $500.
If you are not doing anything crazy like high boost FI, nitrous and contstant revs above 7k, stick with the stock rods, they are underrated imho and the pins can be reused. Just replace the rod bolts with katechs or ARPs. Get a set of Mahle Piston packs from one of the sponors here for around $500.
I am planning on ARP rod bolts, main bolts, head studs, etc. I decided to keep the stock crank to stay within my budget. Forged rods were a little too expensive too. If the main bearings have been removed once, should I get a new set? I don't if they hav but if it looks to be so, I was considering new ones. I will look into the piston packs. Thanks for the info!
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Joined: Jan 2002
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From: Lincoln Park Mi
why are you removing the pistons from the rods if you arent getting new rods or pistons? there really isnt any need to do that. If you are getting pistons, usualy they come with the pins.
though I agree with everyone that says if you have it apart anyway you should go forged.
though I agree with everyone that says if you have it apart anyway you should go forged.
Get a set of Compustar rods ~ $500 and a good set of forged pistons. Don't mess around, install new rings and bearings also. Yes, this all cost a little, but this leaves the door wide open for whatever you want to do in the future.
Give the guys at Callies a call, they can set you up with a nice package.
Give the guys at Callies a call, they can set you up with a nice package.
Originally Posted by Freak
why are you removing the pistons from the rods if you arent getting new rods or pistons? there really isnt any need to do that. If you are getting pistons, usualy they come with the pins.
though I agree with everyone that says if you have it apart anyway you should go forged.
though I agree with everyone that says if you have it apart anyway you should go forged.
I'm exchanging only 1 rod because the motor spun a rod bearing and needed to get the crank machined and replace one of the rods. So, thats where i stand. I think he should be fine with the stock pistons. He wont be going to wild with this setup.
Whe reinstalling the pistons the dots that are ontop of the pistons all face forward towards the front of the motor, correct?
Also, all the pistons got mixed up. Is there a certain order the pistons get installed in. There is no numbers on any of the pistons and it looks like they should be installed a certain way. Or can they just be put in one at a time with the dot facing forward?
Originally Posted by Camaroguy
so im guessing the dots on the pistons are supposed to face forward?
(I would think) they should face to the "left" (if looking at the "bank" from the side).....
you could always look at the "valve notches" (if you ever floated a valve) in them......
Originally Posted by 2001CamaroGuy
(I would think) they should face to the "left" (if looking at the "bank" from the side).....
you could always look at the "valve notches" (if you ever floated a valve) in them......
you could always look at the "valve notches" (if you ever floated a valve) in them......
Just took the pistons out in order... And someone decided to throw them in one stack.. (Save space
) So now they are all mixed up.I didnt check which way the dot ontop of the piston was facin when i removed them,but i think i remember they all facing forward towards the front of the motor. All the stock pistons that are in the motor had a dot ontop of the piston.. I just want to make sure they go in the correct way..
So im guessing all the pistons should go in with the dots facing forward towards the front of the motor. Or does it even matter on stock 02 pistons?