Ferocity02

iTrader: (60)

I am looking for my next big mod. I was planning on going with a turbo kit but I havent found one that I like or that will work for my car and where I drive. I have looked at the stroker guide in the July issue or GMHTP and found a lot of options. But I still have a ton of questions. If there is a write-up somewhere on this stuff that would be great, but I couldnt find one. My goal is 550rwhp N/A for a 98% steet car, non-daily driver. I don't know if thats possible but I just threw it out there. Anyways, here are some of my main questions...

1) Can a LARGE motor (402,408) emmisions friendly and still make 500+ rwhp?
2) Whats the difference between a short block, long block, LQ4, LQ9, LS2, etc...
3) 402ci and 408ci seem to be the "standard" displacement... why so?
4) What is typically included in an assembled motor purchased from a vender? Just block and internals?
5) Why does the price vary so much from vender to vender?
6) Are there any brands of parts to steer clear of?
7) Is an iron block more for FI, while aluminum is more for NA?
8) Would AFR 225's be sufficient for my goal? What other head options are there?
9) Whats the difference between wet and dry sleeves?
10) What does "bored .030 to .060 over" mean?

Right now I am looking at the TSP 402-LS2 and the SDPC 402-LS2. Any opinions on these?

Thanks!

Beast96Z

iTrader: (21)

1. Yes, emmisions friendly can happen, it just depends on the cam you use. If the set-up is planned well and efficent enough, you should be able to hit 500 rwhp.
2. A short block is the lower half of the motor. Basically just the block, crank, rods, and pistons. LQ4,9 and LS-2 are diffrent GM code numbers from diffrent vehicles. LQ 4 and 9 being truck based applications.
3.402's are LS-2 based strokers. 408's are usaully iron block strokers. They are the standard because that is the cubic inch you get with a standard 4" stroker crank and the blocks safe over bore.
4.The assembally comes as complete as you want. Typical short block prices are just that. Crank, rods, pistons, and block, assemballed.
5. The price varies dependant upon what parts are used. If a vendor uses a Eagle stroker kit, the end price may be $2,000 cheaper than if a Lunati stroker kit was used. That just comes down to quality of parts.
6.It just depends on what you plan to do with the motor. High hp/forced induction set-ups might steer away from Eagle parts, but for everyday N/A use, the are great.
7. The forced induction crowds do use the iron block because of it's durability. For most applications, the aluminum block will suit most consumers. It will handle a pretty good bit of HP when built correctly.
8. The AFR 225's are a great out of the box head. They will surfice your goal easily. Other heads like the TEA's and ET perfomance are good also.
9. Wet sleeves actually sit in the coolant of your motor and are sealed by o-ring type fixtures in the block. Dry sleeves use the block remaing material to keep them out of the coolant. Hence the wet or dry.
10. Over bore is the amount you remove from the cylinder when you bore it. If a stock bore is 3.900 and you bore it .010", you have now bored the motor .010" over to a new size bore of 3.910". .030" and .060" are common in the iron block world because that is a standard over bore for them. Stock sleeved blocks can only accept a .010" safe over bore. Any more and you effect the integriy of the sleeve.

Both TSP and SDPC are great to deal with. I've worked with both before and they treated me good.

jrp

iTrader: (16)

1) not likey, or you'll be spending more money then its worth to get it
2) shortblock = block, rotating assembly, bearings. some sponsors let you add or they come with cams, timing chains, oil pump, ect. longblock = shortblock + heads. again, the same options (cam, chain, ect) can be added. LQ4/LQ9 are 6.0 iron blocks, used too build 402 or 408 (.030 over) displacements with a 4" stroke. LS2 is the ls2 block obviously, 4" bore all alluminum. 402 displacemt can be had with a 4" stroke. you'll need some ls2 specific parts like timing cover. SDPC ships there ls2 402's with the required parts.
3) 402/408 is the most common because its simple. take the stock block and add the 4" crank. or in the case of the iron block bore .030 over and get 408.
5) like i said earlier, some vendors add on extra parts like cam, chain, ect. also, depennds on the rotating asssemby. most use eagle cranks, eagle rods, and diamond piistons. pretty standard off the shelf stuff. if you go with a callies or lunati crank that will add another ~1k. of course you can upgrade to billet rods, custom pistons, ect. as that will effect the price as well.
6) eagle, diamond, ross, JE, manley, crower, scat, mahle, are all good in your intended application. this isnt a one off race motor your building.
7) the iron block will handle more boost or n20 but block failure is rare in the ls1 world. you'll find other faults in the setup before your block becomes the limitiation.
8) i would say at minimum, the AFR 225 would be required. your gonna need a killer set of heads to achieve your goal, especially if your trying to stay smog legal. you can of course check out ETP, see how the edlebrocks do, ALL Pro's, ect.
9) check the darton links in the FAQ (sig).
10) "bored" means just that, the bore is increase. ".030" means thirty thousands over the standard bore size. in the 6.0 block which has a 4" bore, .030 over puts the new bore at 4.030. .030 is common as it increases displacement but still leaves room for further clean in the future. you can go .040 or .060 over, for the later or larger you want to have the block sonic tested too make sure there is enough thicknes to bore and still keep the bore/block integrity.

whats your budget? out of those 2 i'd go with the SDPC. if your willing to spend a bit more cash the new darton ls2 dry sleeves are an option. you can have a fully resleeved block ready for final hone for under 3k including the price of a new ls2 block. the dry sleeves have 4.160 bore potential. with 4.125" bore and a 4" stroke you get the magical 427

jrp

iTrader: (16)

lol, you beat me to it all jason

Beast96Z

iTrader: (21)

My fingers were smokin after that one. I've also got one of those magical 427's for sale.

Ferocity02

iTrader: (60)

My budget is around $5k. I figure I can get a running shortblock and use the stock heads and intake, for now. How much of the LS1 motor can bolt up to the LS2 block? I thinking things like rocker arma, push rods, timing set, water pump, oil pump, crank pulley, valve covers, oil pan, etc...

jrp

iTrader: (16)

**LS2 parts:
*front cover
*timming set
*cam sensor
*front cover
*front seal & gasket
*valley cover

all other GenIII parts will swap over. you'll need to decide what you want to do with the KS, either delete them or tap them into the side of the block.

good luck with the katech motor sale jason.

Blown408

iTrader: (4)

Check with ForceFed High performance. I think their last special on an iron LONGBLOCK with stage 3 ported heads was about 5800.00 if I am not mistaken.

Here is a link.
https://ls1tech.com/forums/sponsor-sales-specials/360450-ffhp-408ci-370ci-iron-block-sale.html