No the ? is are you for real? Dude, a mod is a mod is a mod, period. It makes no difference what makes you go fast, it just matters how fast you go, right. I'll bet your one of those guys who hates nitrous just cuz you don't have it. Do you cry if someone with a blower or a turbo beats you? BTW nitrous "makes your motor more powerful!"

 

BTW, dry is not softer than wet (BIG MYTH) and it is way better monitored than wet.
Intake was never designed for wet shots so good wet is DP wet. Jetting is always an issue.
I have a dual stage 5177 NOS that handles up to ~250, all of that for less than $500.

For the street, I like Stealth especially with other nasty loping cars. They bite on the challenge all the time. 434 rwhp with a tame ride, I get them off the line, they start catching up in upper 2nd gear rpms and just when they think they are going to spank me, a flick of a switch makes them wonder what just happened.

99% of the loosers say the same thing "you cheated, you sprayed", and my response is allways the same, "you lost, you're owned".

 

Personally I would go with the cam now AND nitrous later. Cam for all around street N/A bawls and nitrous for the track and occassional street runs. This is the route I intend to go. I just prefer the sound of a big lopey cam and the looks it brings, nitrous owns though, so I'll do both.

 

You can NOT do nitrous right for anywhere near $300-$400...and nitrous isn't something to cheap out on. Figure at least $1,000 to do it right.

 

I can't wait till the first person tells me "you cheated, you sprayed". Whether or not I actually did.

 

Wet, I agree, but dry and a little inginuity, a NOS 5177 is hard to beat.
Comes with FPSS and WOT switch, 2 solinoids wich can be split into a dual system, 15lbs bottle, blow down tube etc...
Only thing to add is
1- Filter
2- Bottle warmer
3- Activation switch
4- Teflon tape
5- Zip ties
6- TR6 plugs gapped .035>.042 (depending on SCR and size of shot)

My total cost was ~ $550 for an up to 250 dual stage dry.

Of course once you go over your fuel delivery system limits, a PnP Racetronix pump/harness/FPR and bigger injectors are needed.
But up to 150 dry, the basic kit is sufficient on a stock motor.

Of course if you're M6 then a window switch is necessary, but I'm A4 on a built tranny, never used one.

 

This is my advice also.

Regarding the cost of a properly setup nitrous system, to do a wet system correctly, figure on $1300-$1500.

 

alright. Well i am not sure exactly how much i will have to spend at this moment as i am still working and am not sure how i will come out for the year. Things are looking better than i thought tho! I am def set on the MS3. I could jsut spray a dry kit on that like 100 shot. Now for 100 dry i do not need to upgrade the fuel system correct? Or should i do it for safety? Also so everyone is agreeing that the NOS 5177 kit is the best dry kit for the price? Alli need is a dry kit for like 50-150. I wont be spray over 150 so i really dont need it. But i do need a bottle heater, FPSS, WOT switch, and window switch and all the other things to ru nthe system. Well i am trying to keep from street racing as i cant get caught or the car is byebye. So therefore i find hiding the nitrous set up is pretty pointless but i may do it anyway for a sweet stealth look. Now i know dry is easy to hide under hood but where can i hide a friggen 15 lb bottle? I am really thinking of maybe doing the MS3 than spray. Or i could do the MS3 plus some heads? Info on the dry shot...

 

Lokking at your sig, I do not see headers and i would ditch the Granatelli MAF and go back to stock.
So if I were you, this is what I would do:
1- A nice set of Kooks headers with Y
2- an LS6 intake
3- Port the TB
4- Dyno tune by a Pro.
(these should get you in the 350rwhp range)

Once this is done you can get the MS3 and a stage 3/4 clutch and then retune.

 

The guy was recommending spraying on a bolt ons and cam car, so the fuel delivery would be required. Even a full bolt on and nitrous car will need fuel system upgrades to spray a 150 shot.

I include a good bottle heater (NX is what, $220?) with the price of a dry kit, nothing more important for the correct power levels and consistency when going dry.

I also consider a window switch for either transmission. It should help extend the life of the stock tranny a bit if you avoid spraying through the shifts.

One final area to consider is a good tune and/or some software to monitor everything when spraying....just to be safe.

 

Totally agree with what he said, that's the route I went as well! Gotta do your headers and TB and intake first before tossing in the cam

 

get ready to blow your stock 10 bolt either way u go............




mine lasted 94,000 miles though
hmmmmm

 

hey I agree, I'm just saying most people are dicks when they find out that you have nitrous. If I had nitrous and beat someone, they'd probably wouldn't even count the race and void it.

 

It is when you can drive forever with out having to fill up at the gas station plus its a sleeper!

Just my opinion..

 

BUT, can you race or just simply drive fast and fun forever without having to fill up your bottle?

 

Yeah whatever, you're probably the the one who bitches out on challenge because you know your bottle is empty and you arent jack without it. LMAO

 

sounds like you lost a race against a bottle. you might want to sit in a car with a 200 shot one day and see what kind of skill it takes through the initial hit.

if bottles are for babies, then why are you crying about it? a race is a race, period.

yep, a race is about who's the better driver and whos motor is more powerful. regardless of how it's done. i bet you are one of those that think turbos and blowers are ok. but nitrous, NO WAY!!!! that's cheating.

 

Yea well guys if you would have read my earlier posts, you would have gotten that my LTs, true duals, ls6 intake, 4k stall is all going to be ordered early nov. I am jsut getting some info for which route to go AFTER i get this stuff installed. I have done my research and no to go bolt ons and not cam before certain stuff and blah blah. I am thinking i want to putt he MS3 in, than just in a NOS 5177 dry kit and spray 100 shot and get my fuel system upgraded and pray my 10 bolts lives while i can save up 2 grand for the 12! Sound like a plan?!?!?

Run what ya brung and hope ya brung enough, bottle or not. If you lose to a bottle, its means you must need one too.

 

I vote for the CAM. Cam gives you power all of the time, whereas the Nitrous is only when you are spraying in short bursts. THe myth that nitrous is cheap is also a farce! It may be a cheapter initial investment, BUT it will get you in the long run. AND I AM NOT talking about blowing something up. Average fill up for a 10lb bottle is going to run you in the vicinity of 40 dollars. Add that up over a year or two.. that is a pretty penny. Do the CAM, then Heads, then rear end. Once you are there, then go get some spray.

 

Holy crap, 100th post, guess i brought up a good subject huh?