best street use cam?? NO track
#26
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Over 400rwhp is possible if everything is right. Tell us more about the car and what you want to do with it. If its just a weekend warrior, I say go all out.
Get the TSP ms3 cam (237 242 113) and the FAST intake. A z06 vette with that cam and intake dynoed 450rwhp. The engine is already out so changing the rod bolts should be easy. Then the set the rev limiter at 7200 and shift at 7k.
As long as you have gears big cams are fun as hell. They only get annoying if its a daily driver. If the car is heavy Id go with 4.56 gears.
Get the TSP ms3 cam (237 242 113) and the FAST intake. A z06 vette with that cam and intake dynoed 450rwhp. The engine is already out so changing the rod bolts should be easy. Then the set the rev limiter at 7200 and shift at 7k.
As long as you have gears big cams are fun as hell. They only get annoying if its a daily driver. If the car is heavy Id go with 4.56 gears.
#27
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thanks dug... okay, lets see if i can sum up what I want from the car.
its a 1979 Z28 (heavy car, guessing like 3700 or so)
its going to have a LS1 backed by a 6 speed
LT's 3" X over axle
it will have (i hope) LS6 heads slight porting (OR whatever combo works best)
set up is pro-touring. full Hotchkis TVS suspension, 18" wheels, etc.
though its not a daily driver, I want good street power, usable street power/trq.
I would like to stay with 3.42 or 3.73 at the most.
most driving I would say 1700-5700, sometimes 6200+
I want pretty good gas mileage, because I want to drive it on trips... i.e., from FL to WV, about 1700 miles. so no chug or bucking in 6th.
As predator-z always says, its all about the combo. thats why im posting my goals to see what you guys think is the right combo for me.
EDIT: this is something I am VERY interested in. https://ls1tech.com/forums/generation-iii-internal-engine/72972-224-224-110lsa-106icl-cam-dyno-results-very-happy.html
its a 1979 Z28 (heavy car, guessing like 3700 or so)
its going to have a LS1 backed by a 6 speed
LT's 3" X over axle
it will have (i hope) LS6 heads slight porting (OR whatever combo works best)
set up is pro-touring. full Hotchkis TVS suspension, 18" wheels, etc.
though its not a daily driver, I want good street power, usable street power/trq.
I would like to stay with 3.42 or 3.73 at the most.
most driving I would say 1700-5700, sometimes 6200+
I want pretty good gas mileage, because I want to drive it on trips... i.e., from FL to WV, about 1700 miles. so no chug or bucking in 6th.
As predator-z always says, its all about the combo. thats why im posting my goals to see what you guys think is the right combo for me.
EDIT: this is something I am VERY interested in. https://ls1tech.com/forums/generation-iii-internal-engine/72972-224-224-110lsa-106icl-cam-dyno-results-very-happy.html
Last edited by seadoo; 10-08-2005 at 08:42 PM.
#29
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Id get the 224 .581 112 108icl cam. Its the same as the tr224 cam, it has higher lift to take advantage of the ported heads. It has a lot of torque and would allow you to sit back and drive the car vs. shifting all the time to keep in the powerband.
No matter what you do its gonna sound awesome with the tru-duals. You should **** with people and get flowmasters. They may cost some power but everyone seem to love the sound.
No matter what you do its gonna sound awesome with the tru-duals. You should **** with people and get flowmasters. They may cost some power but everyone seem to love the sound.
#33
Definetly stay away from the big cams.. I have an MS3 in my full weight,M6, TA and I am about to change it to something else because its a phuckin turd at the track. Stick to something small to make GOOD low end torque. I am looking at the TR224/228 myself. Unless you have either a 4k stall converter or plan on dumping the clutch at 5k rpms with 4.10s or 4.33s and your car weighs 3000lbs, stay away from anything in the 230-240 duration@.050 range. Its an expensive mistake, TRUST ME.
#34
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^true, my cam bogs at anything less than 4-5k clutch dump^ I have no complaints about it being a "turd" at the track or street though, big cams like to be around 3.5-6.5k rpms....you can't floor it from idle and expect something grand to happen, thats just common sense.
#35
Originally Posted by skippytheloon
^true, my cam bogs at anything less than 4-5k clutch dump^ I have no complaints about it being a "turd" at the track or street though, big cams like to be around 3.5-6.5k rpms....you can't floor it from idle and expect something grand to happen, thats just common sense.
How does your car run at the track? whats the setup? Thought about that Torquer cam myself
#37
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I got a stupid sob story:
Put in a clutch with the cam and when everything was broken in I took it to the track and found it wouldn't shift right. I took it home and fixed the hydrolics but my dailydriven ET streets went bald before I could run it again.
I put some winter tires on and decided to just wait till next season and enjoy having a daily driver that rapes 224 cammed cars all day
Put in a clutch with the cam and when everything was broken in I took it to the track and found it wouldn't shift right. I took it home and fixed the hydrolics but my dailydriven ET streets went bald before I could run it again.
I put some winter tires on and decided to just wait till next season and enjoy having a daily driver that rapes 224 cammed cars all day
#39
TECH Senior Member
I have a stealth II.
With reduced idle and open cutout, that cam lopes. Just a faster, nervous lope, but sounds cammed nonetheless.
Stealth is relative to:
Idle
Overlap
Exhaust system used
With reduced idle and open cutout, that cam lopes. Just a faster, nervous lope, but sounds cammed nonetheless.
Stealth is relative to:
Idle
Overlap
Exhaust system used
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yea the TR224 cam is hard to beat streetability wise, ran it in my car for almost a year untuned, ran damn good, I have a F13 in the car now, awesome cam, but for a street only car, the TR224 cam would work awesome for you