Do I need new pushrods with a new cam?
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Do I need new pushrods with a new cam?
Getting a bigger cam next spring and I was wondering if I need new pushrods to go with it or are they not a needed? Car will be at around 65k miles, throwing a new oil pump, timing chain and LS6 manifold on there while I'm at it. Was confused about the rods though, should they also be replaced?
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I bought new pushrods, but I really do not think it matters. There is an argument that the stock pushrods will bend easier than hardened pushrods. Some people say leave the stockers so that you bend a pushrod and not a valve.
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Originally Posted by hurley711
So it's so far tied at 1-1....also what about roller rockers, should I swap them out while in there, are they worth any power gains?
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I would get hardened pushrods. I was on the boat to keep my stock pushrods when i was first looking at doin my cam swap. Then i realized ... i've only misshifted my car twice in the 65,000mi i had on it before the cam swap. I through harder ones in b/c the stock ones can flex under load, which in term slows down your valve train ... and the whole point of your valve train it to accurately transmit your cam lobes to your valves. If there is slack in the valve train you can lose power, and other things can go wrong as well.
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i was planning on dropping an ls1 in my 99 s10 and was gonna do a top end rebuild. i was gonna run a mild cam, with new pushrods, rockers and springs. do you have recommended part #s?? should i change the timing chain while im at it?
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Originally Posted by FstBlkz28
I would get hardened pushrods. I was on the boat to keep my stock pushrods when i was first looking at doin my cam swap. Then i realized ... i've only misshifted my car twice in the 65,000mi i had on it before the cam swap. I through harder ones in b/c the stock ones can flex under load, which in term slows down your valve train ... and the whole point of your valve train it to accurately transmit your cam lobes to your valves. If there is slack in the valve train you can lose power, and other things can go wrong as well.
So some people (and I think rightly so), assume that if they use the weaker stock push rods they will act as a fuse. They want them to yield before hurting the rest of the valve train. Now the real question, are the new hardened push rods the same OD and ID. I think they are the same OD, but if they are actually a thicker wall material, then they will flex less than a stocker (but not by much since the OD is much more important). I bet they are the same ID because why would you want a heavier pushrod?
Sorry to bore everyone.