I Need Some Valve Spring Swap Tips
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Can anyone give me some tips on swapping the valve springs??? We've gotten 7 of them swapped... and it's a pain in the butt. If anyone has some tips to make it any easier, I would greatly appreciate it.
I think the biggest problem I am having is the valve spring compressors from Autozone and Discount Auto Parts suck. Can anyone recommend a GOOD compressor?
I think the biggest problem I am having is the valve spring compressors from Autozone and Discount Auto Parts suck. Can anyone recommend a GOOD compressor?
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</font><blockquote><font size="1" face="Verdana, Helvetica, sans-serif">quote:</font><hr /><font size="2" face="Verdana, Helvetica, sans-serif">Originally posted by Tally TransAm:
<strong> this spring compressor
small, easy to use, allows both free hands, FREE
<img src="http://www.imagestation.com/picture/sraid44/p19bee1dcef0667510b1c2f7eae14feb8/fce12889.jpg" alt=" - " />
ryan </strong></font><hr /></blockquote><font size="2" face="Verdana, Helvetica, sans-serif">Uh... How does that work????
<strong> this spring compressor
small, easy to use, allows both free hands, FREE
<img src="http://www.imagestation.com/picture/sraid44/p19bee1dcef0667510b1c2f7eae14feb8/fce12889.jpg" alt=" - " />
ryan </strong></font><hr /></blockquote><font size="2" face="Verdana, Helvetica, sans-serif">Uh... How does that work????
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one end rest on the edge on the head, the U rest over the retainer, you tighten it down with the rocker arm bolt through the hole. you have to use a couple washers as spacers before you put the bolt in.
it is 1/4" steel, about 4-5" long, and 1.5" wide. the hole is 3/8" drilled 1.75" away from one end. the U i 1" deep by 3/4" wide cut from the same end you measured the hole from.
works like a champ
ryan
it is 1/4" steel, about 4-5" long, and 1.5" wide. the hole is 3/8" drilled 1.75" away from one end. the U i 1" deep by 3/4" wide cut from the same end you measured the hole from.
works like a champ
ryan
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If the heads are off the car, you can use that tool above. I don't know how you'd leverage that thing on the back springs with the heads installed.
I got my spring compressor at NAPA for $40. It's done about a dozen cam swaps and hasn't broken yet.
Make sure you cover the top of the spring if you have to tap the spring to get the retainer keys to drop out. They'll be under a bit of tension and may shoot off where you can't find them. Other than that, springs are a walk in the park.
I got my spring compressor at NAPA for $40. It's done about a dozen cam swaps and hasn't broken yet.
Make sure you cover the top of the spring if you have to tap the spring to get the retainer keys to drop out. They'll be under a bit of tension and may shoot off where you can't find them. Other than that, springs are a walk in the park.
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the problem is the tool we were using. its a cheap discount/advance auto tool. The middle part which fits the retainers was bendng outwards and slipping off the retainers. Not only annoying but dangerous. Somehow we got 7 done that way. That tool that tally posted looksl ike it should work, even with the heads on. I mean, if we have to use the discount auto tool to get to one or two we wont have a problem but doing them all with that thing was a pain and unsafe.
Mike <-- posting for kyle..
Mike <-- posting for kyle..
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hah... Just got done making one. Pulled out a Sawzall and a drill and went to work.
Got one now. <img border="0" title="" alt="[Big Grin]" src="gr_grin.gif" />
Got one now. <img border="0" title="" alt="[Big Grin]" src="gr_grin.gif" />
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actually, that 1/4 inch steel one works wonderfully. can even get the back springs with it just fine, and it doesnt take 2 people to do a spring swap. and it sure as hell doesnt cost anywhere near $150 dollars <img border="0" title="" alt="[Wink]" src="gr_images/icons/wink.gif" /> <img border="0" title="" alt="[Big Grin]" src="gr_grin.gif" />
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</font><blockquote><font size="1" face="Verdana, Helvetica, sans-serif">quote:</font><hr /><font size="2" face="Verdana, Helvetica, sans-serif">Originally posted by Nagash01WS6:
<strong> Quick question... think there would be a problem in doubling it up to do two at once? </strong></font><hr /></blockquote><font size="2" face="Verdana, Helvetica, sans-serif">Thats a good idea. I bet you could fabricate one.
<strong> Quick question... think there would be a problem in doubling it up to do two at once? </strong></font><hr /></blockquote><font size="2" face="Verdana, Helvetica, sans-serif">Thats a good idea. I bet you could fabricate one.
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</font><blockquote><font size="1" face="Verdana, Helvetica, sans-serif">quote:</font><hr /><font size="2" face="Verdana, Helvetica, sans-serif">Originally posted by Nagash01WS6:
<strong> Well... It definately compresses the spring... but uh... How do you keep the valve from going with it????? </strong></font><hr /></blockquote><font size="2" face="Verdana, Helvetica, sans-serif">Remove the spark plugs and attach an air compressor to a compression fitting screwed into the spark plug hole. Try to find a fitting that has a flexible hose end as that will make it easier to do the back valve springs. It can be hard to get the compressor hose on the back plugs if you have a fixed end fitting as there isn't room to get the compressor hose connector in there.
<strong> Well... It definately compresses the spring... but uh... How do you keep the valve from going with it????? </strong></font><hr /></blockquote><font size="2" face="Verdana, Helvetica, sans-serif">Remove the spark plugs and attach an air compressor to a compression fitting screwed into the spark plug hole. Try to find a fitting that has a flexible hose end as that will make it easier to do the back valve springs. It can be hard to get the compressor hose on the back plugs if you have a fixed end fitting as there isn't room to get the compressor hose connector in there.