Rear MAin Seal install ??
Since you no doubt don't have those tools, you might try using a feeler guage, thin screw driver, pick or scribe, long tooth picks etc. to carefully help the inner lip over the end of the crank as you slide it on. You could also fashion a cone out of some aluminum flashing, or maybe just some tape over the end of the crank.
Hopefully some of the builders will chime in here and offer up their tricks of the trade.
John
John
I agree with the rest of your installment procedure, the key is having the oil pan in place and tightening the two thin oil pan bolts first before tightening the rear cover bolts. Those oil pan bolts ensure the cover is pulled tightly against the oil pan seal preventing any leaks.
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Why would you not lube the seal and/or crank?
Why would you not lube the seal and/or crank?
Sorry for the cruddy picture, but in a nutshell the seal is made of some teflonish material, when you start it up with a new seal the friction heat of the crank rubbing on it transfers some of the material to the crank, making your seal... hence the no oil part - reduces the friction required.
Last edited by 69GMC/99LS1; Nov 27, 2005 at 07:43 AM.
John
Did anyone take pics of this when they did the install?
Put the oil pan on the block with now gasket so and set the cover flush against it so you know it is centered. Use a small screwdriver to work the seal over the crank being very careful not to damage it. Use plenty of oil on the crank and seal to help out. Once it is on, put two bolts through the oil pan into the cover and snug them up. That makes sure it is flush and then install you cover bolts and torque them down. This is the poor mans way to do without the crazy expensive tools! The way a good friend of mine does it and he is a ASE mechanic that only works on Camaro's, corvettes, and trucks all with LS1's for a very larger dealer down here. Worked for me!
John
Did anyone take pics of this when they did the install?
You might want to put a washer under the head of the pan bolts when you do this, or use shorter bolts if you have them - without the gasket the pan does not seat fully against the rail, the bolts bottom out before it is sucked up completely, at least mine did.
Once you have the rear seal centered, installed and the rear cover torqued down, then remove the pan. Then put the NEW pan gasket and the pan on. The GM manual says not to reuse the gasket. Whether GM is trying to sell you more parts or not is irrelevant as far as I'm concerned, the $40 or whatever pan gasket is worth it if it saves me pulling the pan AGAIN to replace a leaky re-used gasket, don't you think??
so what you do is tap the seal into the rear cover, put the ring in and slide the seal over the crank while pushing the ring out. easy right...but heres the problem
the ring they give you is not big enough or in my car it was to small so what i did i have a halfway used up roll of masking tape so i kept takin tape off untill it was a bit bigger then the plastin ring and would still fit in the seal. now the seal was expanded enough and it slid rigth on
oh and i did not use any tools to line up anything when i put my motor together and i have no leaks...just have to use some common sence







