Need to stop sewing machine sound. Which rockers?
12-02-2005, 01:25 PM
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Need to stop sewing machine sound. Which rockers? I'm not looking for a performance gain but want the sewing machine sound gone! I have forged 346 M6 with AFR 205 w/921 springs, 234/238 595/605 114, comp push rods and rev limit set at 7K.
Any recommendation on which rockers for quieting the noise? If they are all the same as far as quieting the noise, then I'm looking for moderate priced rockers.
Any recommendation on which rockers for quieting the noise? If they are all the same as far as quieting the noise, then I'm looking for moderate priced rockers.
12-02-2005, 01:49 PM
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I can't say I've ever heard a set of roller rockers not sound like a sewing machine, but maybe a set of shaft rockers will be quieter. I doubt you'll get it to quiet down much with that cam.
12-02-2005, 03:55 PM
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Originally Posted by iamsickofitall
what lenght pushrods are you running, they may help heighten the sound?
12-02-2005, 03:57 PM
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I’m running the AFR 205’s and the 921 springs. I’ve been told that it’s the springs and aggressive cam lobes that make the noise. I don’t think there’s much you can do about it.
12-02-2005, 04:40 PM
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I got G5x3 cam, Patriot Shaft Rockers, Patriot Gold springs, Morel lifters, and comp pushrods. I am getting major sewing machine sound. Not very much run time on it so might quite down with more use.
12-02-2005, 04:57 PM
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i have a little seewing machine noise, but its not bad. its partially from the cam/lobe design, but its also partly due to all the aluminum in there. My cam is only a 224/224 .561.561 112 lsa, and i use 7.425" pushrods to get the right preload. going back to cam basics, the only way to get higher lift is with a smaller base circle, which means you'll need longer push rods. id imagine you need a longer rod, and that will help with the noise by adding some preload on the lifters. that cam you have is pretty descent in size, stock PR's cant be right. Id call comp and see what they recommend. Even with my little lift, lunati recommended 7.425" pr's.
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12-02-2005, 04:59 PM
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this is assuming that your deck height is stock and your heads are unmilled. if you deck has been milled say .030 it may be right. there should be pre load though...
12-02-2005, 07:16 PM
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I haven't measured preload. I did need 7.387 or so with the measuring tool (at 0 lash) so i went with 7.400. Does this mean I have .013 preload?
12-02-2005, 09:16 PM
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Originally Posted by TAQuickness
if you didn't adjust your rockers, it's a safe bet you have .013 lash.
12-02-2005, 09:17 PM
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Originally Posted by kenp
Crane VHP. Fully adjustable with roller tips, hardened pushrods, rocker studs & pushrod guides. 1.7 ratio or 1.8. Quiet compared to OEM.
12-02-2005, 10:14 PM
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Dynomat.
Insulate the interior of your car. Maybe even put some high temp insulation under your hood.
Do you want the noise to be gone, or do you just not want to hear it?
Insulate the interior of your car. Maybe even put some high temp insulation under your hood.
Do you want the noise to be gone, or do you just not want to hear it?
12-03-2005, 05:49 AM
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Originally Posted by LS123
I haven't measured preload. I did need 7.387 or so with the measuring tool (at 0 lash) so i went with 7.400. Does this mean I have .013 preload?
You have to measure preload so you can measure your p-rod length with a p-rod meter.
You measured incorrectly
12-03-2005, 01:44 PM
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Originally Posted by LS123
How did you calculate that? Could you elaborate?
as far as write ups on measuring preload, it would be best for you use the search button. it's more than i care to type, and it has been covered many times. Might try searching for "lifter preload" titles only.
12-04-2005, 04:52 AM
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AFRs were milled .040" to achieve 59 cc's but the block was not. If there is no cure for the noise, I guess I can live with it.-quoted from LS123
If the block has a stock deck height, then the only thing you changed are the cam (base circle), and the heads (milled .040). So, lets assume you just did the heads and kept the stock cam, then you would need shorter pushrods, 7.355ish, cause the stock length is really 7.395. Now taking into account the cam, since the base circle is smaller than the stock cam, you need longer pushrods. the stock cam's lift is at .498" i believe, or something close to it, so the difference in lift between the two is about .595-.498=.097" in valve lift or about .057" in actual lobe height. so, that would give you about 7.412" push rod to give you stock preload, which is .015"?(i forget). S
Mind you these are just my estimates and arent exact I'm sure, but they make more sense than 7.387". The best bet is to call comp cams, tell them you exact setup, and then they can tell you straight up what length pr. you should looked into measuring preload instead of guessing or whatever you did. this will probably help the noise. I wouldn;t even drive that thing like that, but thats just me...Good Luck.
If the block has a stock deck height, then the only thing you changed are the cam (base circle), and the heads (milled .040). So, lets assume you just did the heads and kept the stock cam, then you would need shorter pushrods, 7.355ish, cause the stock length is really 7.395. Now taking into account the cam, since the base circle is smaller than the stock cam, you need longer pushrods. the stock cam's lift is at .498" i believe, or something close to it, so the difference in lift between the two is about .595-.498=.097" in valve lift or about .057" in actual lobe height. so, that would give you about 7.412" push rod to give you stock preload, which is .015"?(i forget). S
Mind you these are just my estimates and arent exact I'm sure, but they make more sense than 7.387". The best bet is to call comp cams, tell them you exact setup, and then they can tell you straight up what length pr. you should looked into measuring preload instead of guessing or whatever you did. this will probably help the noise. I wouldn;t even drive that thing like that, but thats just me...Good Luck.