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installing ARP studs anything i should know

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Old Dec 5, 2005 | 09:16 PM
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Default installing ARP studs anything i should know

got my heads off the car, now Iam putting everything back using intructions from ls1howto.com. Do those torque specs that they have also apply to studs? Should anything be different? Being that that I have turbo is anything different?
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Old Dec 5, 2005 | 09:50 PM
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Nothing is different for turbo use but just make sure you use the proper ARP install lube when torquing things down. You'll also need to take the proper stretching steps before doing the final bolt down. It's actually much more involved than just throwing in some bolts.
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Old Dec 6, 2005 | 12:34 AM
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Remember Studs are not Torque to Yield.
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Old Dec 6, 2005 | 12:44 AM
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Get the ARP studs. They come with instructions, torque values and lube. Clean the new parts well. All you need is sealant for any stud that goes into the water jacket, or are all of the LSx holes blind? If you do need sealant, I recommend more than you would use for bolts. I like the threads to be solid white. I had some weepage and had to reseal about 8 studs, which was a pain. I use the Permatex Hi-Temp Thread Sealant.

Remember to lube the tops and bottoms of the washers with the ARP Lube. That will help a smooth torqueing also.

What head gasket are you going to use?

Jim
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Old Dec 6, 2005 | 01:21 AM
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I got the studs already, it came w/ an assembly lubricant, but the pack looks small.
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Old Dec 6, 2005 | 05:35 AM
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Originally Posted by SELLSZ06
I got the studs already, it came w/ an assembly lubricant, but the pack looks small.
There is plenty in there.
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Old Dec 6, 2005 | 07:41 AM
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make sure you do another final torque pass after they sit for an hour...they will back off. Mine took another 1/4 turn.
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Old Dec 6, 2005 | 11:08 AM
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Make sure that you have all the holes really cleaned out. I lenth of fuel tubing on an airgun in the hole will work good. There is enough of the grease in the packet to do the job no problem as well... no need to go crazy with the stuff.

as for the bolts loosening, I didn't see any of that. Went thru and torqued the studs to 70 ft lbs, and checked them again before reinstalling valve covers and headers, probably at least an hour after the torqueing was done, nothing took anymore then it did on the first tq'ing. As long as you lube the washers and threads of the bolts good, there shouldn't be any problems.
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Old Dec 6, 2005 | 11:41 AM
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Cool You Thanks Again, Ill Let You All Know How It Turns Out.
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Old Dec 14, 2005 | 01:00 AM
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Many head gaskets require a re-torque after a few days. Especially the Felpro MLS gaskets. Will say in the gasket instructions.

ARP doesn't call for a retorque for the studs.

For threaded hole cleaning, I like to use a set of thread chasers and air gun after that.

Jim
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Old Dec 14, 2005 | 06:07 AM
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Originally Posted by JL ws-6
Make sure that you have all the holes really cleaned out. I lenth of fuel tubing on an airgun in the hole will work good. There is enough of the grease in the packet to do the job no problem as well... no need to go crazy with the stuff.

as for the bolts loosening, I didn't see any of that. Went thru and torqued the studs to 70 ft lbs, and checked them again before reinstalling valve covers and headers, probably at least an hour after the torqueing was done, nothing took anymore then it did on the first tq'ing. As long as you lube the washers and threads of the bolts good, there shouldn't be any problems.
have you checked them since you've run the car? i was told by a few higher ups to check them a few times
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