installing ARP studs anything i should know
Thread Starter
Joined: Dec 2004
Posts: 699
Likes: 1
From: Redondo Beach, California
installing ARP studs anything i should know got my heads off the car, now Iam putting everything back using intructions from ls1howto.com. Do those torque specs that they have also apply to studs? Should anything be different? Being that that I have turbo is anything different?
Launching!
Joined: Apr 2003
Posts: 243
Likes: 0
From: Phoenix, AZ.
Nothing is different for turbo use but just make sure you use the proper ARP install lube when torquing things down. You'll also need to take the proper stretching steps before doing the final bolt down. It's actually much more involved than just throwing in some bolts.
Get the ARP studs. They come with instructions, torque values and lube. Clean the new parts well. All you need is sealant for any stud that goes into the water jacket, or are all of the LSx holes blind? If you do need sealant, I recommend more than you would use for bolts. I like the threads to be solid white. I had some weepage and had to reseal about 8 studs, which was a pain. I use the Permatex Hi-Temp Thread Sealant.
Remember to lube the tops and bottoms of the washers with the ARP Lube. That will help a smooth torqueing also.
What head gasket are you going to use?
Jim
Remember to lube the tops and bottoms of the washers with the ARP Lube. That will help a smooth torqueing also.
What head gasket are you going to use?
Jim
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Make sure that you have all the holes really cleaned out. I lenth of fuel tubing on an airgun in the hole will work good. There is enough of the grease in the packet to do the job no problem as well... no need to go crazy with the stuff.
as for the bolts loosening, I didn't see any of that. Went thru and torqued the studs to 70 ft lbs, and checked them again before reinstalling valve covers and headers, probably at least an hour after the torqueing was done, nothing took anymore then it did on the first tq'ing. As long as you lube the washers and threads of the bolts good, there shouldn't be any problems.
as for the bolts loosening, I didn't see any of that. Went thru and torqued the studs to 70 ft lbs, and checked them again before reinstalling valve covers and headers, probably at least an hour after the torqueing was done, nothing took anymore then it did on the first tq'ing. As long as you lube the washers and threads of the bolts good, there shouldn't be any problems.
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Verdad Gallardo Many head gaskets require a re-torque after a few days. Especially the Felpro MLS gaskets. Will say in the gasket instructions.
ARP doesn't call for a retorque for the studs.
For threaded hole cleaning, I like to use a set of thread chasers and air gun after that.
Jim
ARP doesn't call for a retorque for the studs.
For threaded hole cleaning, I like to use a set of thread chasers and air gun after that.
Jim
Originally Posted by JL ws-6
Make sure that you have all the holes really cleaned out. I lenth of fuel tubing on an airgun in the hole will work good. There is enough of the grease in the packet to do the job no problem as well... no need to go crazy with the stuff.
as for the bolts loosening, I didn't see any of that. Went thru and torqued the studs to 70 ft lbs, and checked them again before reinstalling valve covers and headers, probably at least an hour after the torqueing was done, nothing took anymore then it did on the first tq'ing. As long as you lube the washers and threads of the bolts good, there shouldn't be any problems.
as for the bolts loosening, I didn't see any of that. Went thru and torqued the studs to 70 ft lbs, and checked them again before reinstalling valve covers and headers, probably at least an hour after the torqueing was done, nothing took anymore then it did on the first tq'ing. As long as you lube the washers and threads of the bolts good, there shouldn't be any problems.
