dudas35

iTrader: (4)

You need to be gentle when removing and replacing a cam. Hopefully you didn't damage the cam bearings. Good luck.

MetallicaMatt

iTrader: (19)

i think i was being pretty gentle, but i think it hit the block at the end, when most of it was out and i let the cam hang down (bad idea, i know i know) so i think it just rubbed up against the block

the bearings i think should be fine.

dudas35- do you believe i'll be okay to install the new cam tmr? maybe blow some air into there to make sure there isn't anything sitting on the bearings

i feel better now. thanks bud, i can sleep tonight

BlackZCamaro

iTrader: (1)

Yeah, rubbing up against the block makes sense. If that's all it is, and you don't see any knicks or gouges out of the cam bearings, then I'd go for it.

Dudas - I forgot the sensor was encased in plastic, not just bare steel. I dunno what I was thinking.

MetallicaMatt

iTrader: (19)

i believe thats it, since i was an idiot and let the cam hang down at the very end

the cam bearing closest to me has some light scratches in it, but that should be okay right?

dudas35

iTrader: (4)

I would get in there as far as you can and clean it up. After that i would be sticking a new cam in there.

dudas35

iTrader: (4)

I only know because i had to replace mine about 2 weeks before that bitch Katrina stole my car.

MetallicaMatt

iTrader: (19)

sorry to hear that bro

MetallicaMatt

iTrader: (19)

fresh new day so i looked at the last bearing, closest to the front of the car

its scratched a little bit because of the lobs and stuff from taking out the cam. i know i have to be careful of deep scratches. I ran my fingernail over them, and it didn't get stuck, i could just feel the stratches. its at the bottom of the bearing, all away from the journals

should i be okay?

CBX

That doesn't sound too bad as far as the bearings are concerned, anyways it's a major job to replace them. As for the shavings, if it where me, I would pull the heads and look in there. I don't know about moving forward without knowing where the aluminum shavings came from. I really find it hard to believe that you caused that by spinning the cam, not to mention the fact that you could screw up your bearings if there are any shavings left in there now. Mine came out clean as a whistle. At the very least, blow some air in there like you suggested, get way back in there too. How many miles on your car. I have 56,000 and decided to port the heads while I was at it, as well as change the lifters. I also cleaned up my pistons, heads, etc. while I was at it. You would be surprised how much carbon can build up in the heads and on the pistons. It's not that much more money, I would go for it. Either way, best of luck.

MetallicaMatt

iTrader: (19)

i just rolled over 20k on the clock

i'm going to send a mirror back in there and make sure the other bearings are okay, cut apart the oil filter, and if everything comes back clean, I'll probably just move forward.

I think it was possible that a lobe cut some of the block, since aluminum is a lot softer than the steel cam. Like I said, shes still a pretty young motor, and i haven't noticed any problems with her, and I don't beat on it very hard

CBX

Well, your'e probably right then, 20K really does not justify a lifter change. I would still blow it out really well with some compressed air though, get it all the way back in there.

MetallicaMatt

iTrader: (19)

I will
thanks man,

I must say I am in love with your license plate. I'm thinking about getting that for my car (ohio), if its okay with you. Thats one of the best ones i've seen. Do you get a lot of people trying to mess with you though? Trying to race etc?

MetallicaMatt

iTrader: (19)

ready to put the new cam in
but i'm out of synthetic oil (which is what a run)

is it okay to put regular oil on the cam when i put it in? or just wait until monday and buy some synthetic??

MetallicaMatt

iTrader: (19)

well i'm going to wait until monday and do it right with my synthetic oil

so everybody is 100% sure I can start to take the springs off? even with the cam out? I don't see why it would be a problem

I'm going to use the air compressor method

WsSickLs6

oil is oil...here you're talking about using it for an installation, which really doesn't matter what you use...Assembly lube would be what i would use, but any engine oil will do just fine...

synthetic is compatible with conventional

MetallicaMatt

iTrader: (19)

okay guys
the crank bolt i got from TSP in my kit is the stock length...how do i put on the cranky pulley now? i really needed the longer 120mm bolt i guess. and my torque wrench only goes to 200lb ft

and i think there might have been a problem with my order? there are new seats and seals, but i only have 17 seals??????

they are all the same size, the ls1howto says that the intake and exhaust seals are different sizes...but either way i have 17 of the same size seals? I'm confused now

Lithium

iTrader: (47)

Rent a wrench from autozone that goes to 250...thats what I did atleast.

MetallicaMatt

iTrader: (19)

what about the seals?

Lithium

iTrader: (47)

If TSP sent you them I am sure they sent the wrong stuff

Always happens to me atleast.

Truthfully I am confused as you are with those seals.

CUJO98TA

iTrader: (1)

The seals are fine, on LS1howto.com it does specify 2 different types of valve stem seals, one for intake and one for exhaust but what you got are all exhaust seals which can be used on the intake and exhaust valves.

Jeff