cheapest route for forged short block?
cheapest route for forged short block? What is the cheapest route to building a forged shortblock for boost? The stock crank seems to be plenty stout, but what about the rods? The pistons always seem to be blowing ring lands, but I dont ever see any reports of rods snapping. Can I get away with replacing the pistons with some forged ones and call it a day? I am not looking for crazy power, just reliable 550-600 hp and dont want to worry about how much longer the engine has till it pops.
I would go ahead and swap the rods too...You can get some Scat rods for like $275 I believe and they would be quite a bit better than the stock ones...It's just for $275 or even $500 I wouldn't want to have to disassemble the engine because of a problem I could have prevented in the first place...How many rpms are you trying to run??
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Originally Posted by Lostpatrolman
What is the cheapest route to building a forged shortblock for boost? The stock crank seems to be plenty stout, but what about the rods? The pistons always seem to be blowing ring lands, but I dont ever see any reports of rods snapping. Can I get away with replacing the pistons with some forged ones and call it a day? I am not looking for crazy power, just reliable 550-600 hp and dont want to worry about how much longer the engine has till it pops.
The stock rods and crank are plenty stout for stock parts..
If you want the most strength for the money I would run something like a eagle forged crank, howards rods and wiseco pistons..
Howards rod
http://www.w2wpowertrain.com/pc-52-3...cific-rod.aspx
That eagle crank is actually really affordable... $869 It may not be as bomb proof as some of the alot more expensive cranks but $ per strength gained its a good buy.
http://www.texas-speed.com/shop/item...d=105&catid=37
Last edited by V8_DSM_V8again; Dec 21, 2005 at 01:33 AM.
For $4,500.00 we pull the engine out of your car, rebuild the engine using the stock crank after having it polished, using Callies Compstar connecting rods, Diamond pistons, Total Seal rings, Comp cam of your choice, new oil pump, rotating assembly is balanced. We reinstall your stock heads with new Comp pushrods and MLS head gaskets. Reinstall the engine, and give it a complete dyno tune. New heads would just add for the cost of the heads. Bob
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For $4,500 (no core) you could have my complete forged LS6 long block:
9.4:1 Comression
Diamond Forged Coated (Tops/Sides) -8.9CC Dish Pistons
Manley Forged Rods
PortedLS6 Heads w/ upgraded valvetrain
ARP Main and Head Studs
Includes:
Timing Chain
Front, Rear and Valley Covers
Lifters/Pushrods
Miles; ~ 8-9K
Head Flow Numbers:
Int. Exh
.100
.200 168 110
.300 226 145
.400 256 180
.500 279 208
.600 288 226
Valve 2.02 1.57
This motor currently is making 740rwhp w/ single turbo system. Just add cam, your rockers, LS6 Intake and you are ready to go. Price: $4,550 + shipping. Would love to have a local buyer but I am willing to ship. Motor will come with complete compression test.
May consider adding intake/throttlebody and fuel rails at an additional cost.
and sell your existing hardware to recoup some of the cost.
9.4:1 Comression
Diamond Forged Coated (Tops/Sides) -8.9CC Dish Pistons
Manley Forged Rods
PortedLS6 Heads w/ upgraded valvetrain
ARP Main and Head Studs
Includes:
Timing Chain
Front, Rear and Valley Covers
Lifters/Pushrods
Miles; ~ 8-9K
Head Flow Numbers:
Int. Exh
.100
.200 168 110
.300 226 145
.400 256 180
.500 279 208
.600 288 226
Valve 2.02 1.57
This motor currently is making 740rwhp w/ single turbo system. Just add cam, your rockers, LS6 Intake and you are ready to go. Price: $4,550 + shipping. Would love to have a local buyer but I am willing to ship. Motor will come with complete compression test.
May consider adding intake/throttlebody and fuel rails at an additional cost.
and sell your existing hardware to recoup some of the cost.
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Originally Posted by Earl H
For $4,500 (no core) you could have my complete forged LS6 long block:
.
.
.
Just add cam, your rockers, LS6 Intake and you are ready to go. Price: $4,550 + shipping.
May consider adding intake/throttlebody and fuel rails at an additional cost.
.
.
.
Just add cam, your rockers, LS6 Intake and you are ready to go. Price: $4,550 + shipping.
May consider adding intake/throttlebody and fuel rails at an additional cost.
plus 9.4-1 compression is pretty high for a FI motor. Yeah..used. Only 6 or 7 1/4 passes with all but one on 19" street tires. I will provide clean bill of health (i.e. compressioin and leak down test) for the long block. Check out the specs, you couldn't build the short (i.e. ARP mains, ARP head studs, ARP Rod Bolts, Coated Pistons-top/sides)for what I have the long block priced at.
Re Price: price up a complete purpose built FI long block (worked heads, upgraded valve-train, arp hardware throughout, coated pistons, covers, lifters, push rods, etc.)...hell cores alone will run you over $1K for an Ls6 block and LS6 heads. Yeah, you can do a budget build for less, but it usally doesn't come with all the extras so that it is plug and play. Trust me, I've done it and I'm doing it again.
RE: compression, I've run this motor to 14 psi with pump gas and meth.(9.5:1 AFR) to 12 psi with pump gas only. A good tune goes a long way.
RE: compression, I've run this motor to 14 psi with pump gas and meth.(9.5:1 AFR) to 12 psi with pump gas only. A good tune goes a long way.
Originally Posted by Earl H
Yeah..used.... Check out the specs, you couldn't build the short (i.e. ARP mains, ARP head studs, ARP Rod Bolts, Coated Pistons-top/sides)for what I have the long block priced at.
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Well the Manley rods come with the ARP rod bolts and those are some good rods...
TSP could come close in price...So long as you are still comparing a long to a short.
This is a forged crank stroker at just under $4k...
http://texas-speed.com/shop/item.asp?itemid=43&catid=28
To match the rod quality add $400 for an upgrade.
They can do a stock stroke eagle crank motor or a stock crank motor too (-$800)...
Still needs head studs, heads and valvetrain..
TSP could come close in price...So long as you are still comparing a long to a short.
This is a forged crank stroker at just under $4k...
http://texas-speed.com/shop/item.asp?itemid=43&catid=28
To match the rod quality add $400 for an upgrade.
They can do a stock stroke eagle crank motor or a stock crank motor too (-$800)...
Still needs head studs, heads and valvetrain..
Originally Posted by Earl H
If you are interested, give me a call at 248-842-3309 and I can answer ALL your questions. I don't want to Hijack the thread any further.
I am running stock crank, used eagle 4340's with l19 bolts, and a set of diamond pistons with the dart coatings and so far so good. I just had everything checked out by my engine builder and paid the money to have it assembled and done right.
Made lots of power and should handle lots more.
I think it's just as important to have good parts as to have a good assembler who makes sure everything is perfect before giving it back to you.
Made lots of power and should handle lots more.
I think it's just as important to have good parts as to have a good assembler who makes sure everything is perfect before giving it back to you.
Originally Posted by V8_DSM_V8again
TSP could come close in price...So long as you are still comparing a long to a short.
This is a forged crank stroker at just under $4k...
http://texas-speed.com/shop/item.asp?itemid=43&catid=28
To match the rod quality add $400 for an upgrade.
They can do a stock stroke eagle crank motor or a stock crank motor too (-$800)...
Still needs head studs, heads and valvetrain..
This is a forged crank stroker at just under $4k...
http://texas-speed.com/shop/item.asp?itemid=43&catid=28
To match the rod quality add $400 for an upgrade.
They can do a stock stroke eagle crank motor or a stock crank motor too (-$800)...
Still needs head studs, heads and valvetrain..
Honestly, I have to apologize for this thread turning into a "buy my engine" thread. I don't want to have "sell"/convince anyone to buy the motor. Fortunately I don't HAVE to sell the motor. Its out there for someone who needs to do a strong well-built, tested motor at a discount. For someone pricing up an entire package, they'll be able to evaluate whether or not the price is reasonable or not. If it doesn't sell. It'll just have to take up space in the garage...to be used as a spare. For the guys asking all the question, I'll see how serious you are about getting information by the number of calls I get. If I don't get any calls, I'll know that its just a bunch of guys bustin my chops about something that they never had any intention of buying. No harm no foul...its all good.
Once again, for the guy who started the thread, I apologize.
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Originally Posted by Earl H
I'm not sure I understand...short block vs. "complete" long block. For and "apples" to "apples" comparison...Add the price of head studs, gaskets, timing set, front/rear covers and other misc. items. The cost will add up. Then add the cost of ported LS6 heads, dual springs, upgraded valves.
but
Originally Posted by Earl H
Check out the specs, you couldn't build the short (i.e. ARP mains, ARP head studs, ARP Rod Bolts, Coated Pistons-top/sides)for what I have the long block priced at.
