Removing the Left Head
01-26-2006, 12:45 PM
#1
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Removing the Left Head Instructions found on LS1HOWTO>com for removing the heads say to remove the power steering pump that is bolted onto the front face of the driver's side head. Since the bolts holding it on are hard to get to and can be turned only a little bit at a time with a wrench, I was wondering if you couldn't simply pull the head with the PS Pump in place? Yes? or No?
Then, with the head off and upside down, there might be a better access to the bolts from the combustion chamber side.
Then, with the head off and upside down, there might be a better access to the bolts from the combustion chamber side.
01-26-2006, 01:30 PM
#3
Ok I just did this and a total PITA. I never took the water pump off, and getting that bottom bolt off was impossible. I ended up taking the head off with the pump and sliding the head forward as far as possible and then bending the line down with a screwdriver I stuck a socket on there and with a lot of pain and being pissed off I finally got it undone. I had originally tried with a normal wrench but the bolt was stuck on there too good. After it was broke loose it was a piece of cake, took maybe 30minutes to and hour to get the bolt broken loose and then 1 minute to get all of the other bolts out. My recomendation's are to take the water pump off and just try to do it. Needless to say that bottom bolt is no longer in there 
01-26-2006, 01:43 PM
#5
It doesnt take very long unless you start on it already pissed off 
If the pump was still attatched, you will have a helluva time holding the head up and trying to undo the bolts.
It went pretty easy for me, I don't get what all the fuss is about
I used the open end of a ratchet wrench. My ratchet wrenches are thinner than my other ones, it fit in there very easily. After it's out, clean up the threads and blow out the hole, you might luck out and be able to thread it in by hand.
If the pump was still attatched, you will have a helluva time holding the head up and trying to undo the bolts.
It went pretty easy for me, I don't get what all the fuss is about
I used the open end of a ratchet wrench. My ratchet wrenches are thinner than my other ones, it fit in there very easily. After it's out, clean up the threads and blow out the hole, you might luck out and be able to thread it in by hand.
01-26-2006, 01:47 PM
#6
Originally Posted by TheBlurLS1
It doesnt take very long unless you start on it already pissed off
If the pump was still attatched, you will have a helluva time holding the head up and trying to undo the bolts.
It went pretty easy for me, I don't get what all the fuss is about
I used the open end of a ratchet wrench. My ratchet wrenches are thinner than my other ones, it fit in there very easily. After it's out, clean up the threads and blow out the hole, you might luck out and be able to thread it in by hand.
If the pump was still attatched, you will have a helluva time holding the head up and trying to undo the bolts.
It went pretty easy for me, I don't get what all the fuss is about
I used the open end of a ratchet wrench. My ratchet wrenches are thinner than my other ones, it fit in there very easily. After it's out, clean up the threads and blow out the hole, you might luck out and be able to thread it in by hand.
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01-26-2006, 11:53 PM
#11
LSxGuy widda 9sec Mustang
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I use a 3/8" breaker bar with a 15mm 12-point shallow socket on the bottom bolt thats hard to get to. I don't use that bolt in my own car like 777 since I always have mine apart, but always put it back for customers cars even though its a PITA.
I have pulled the lines off and removed the head with the PS pump attached. It makes a little mess and you have to be careful when you put the head back on as its awkward to set back down gently with limited space. One tip, put a few head bolts in but don't tighten them down, start the threads on the High-Pressure line into the pump, then after torqueing the head down you can tighten it the rest of the way.
Glen's (2xLS1) advice is good if you have the radiator and fans out of the way. I have a snap-on PS gear puller which works really good, most pulley puller kits also have an installation tool for reassembly. The good kits make easy work of removal and installation of the pulley. Its just lack of room unless your doing both heads/cam at the same time.
I have pulled the lines off and removed the head with the PS pump attached. It makes a little mess and you have to be careful when you put the head back on as its awkward to set back down gently with limited space. One tip, put a few head bolts in but don't tighten them down, start the threads on the High-Pressure line into the pump, then after torqueing the head down you can tighten it the rest of the way.
Glen's (2xLS1) advice is good if you have the radiator and fans out of the way. I have a snap-on PS gear puller which works really good, most pulley puller kits also have an installation tool for reassembly. The good kits make easy work of removal and installation of the pulley. Its just lack of room unless your doing both heads/cam at the same time.
01-27-2006, 07:45 AM
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With the water pump hanging, I had no problem getting a socket/stubby wrench on the lower bolt:
I fabbed up a skinny wrench to get to the back one (use a normal wrench to break it free first):
The top bolt is obviously easy. 20 minutes to remove the PS bracket- tops. You could do it with the water pump still bolted up but it would be harder.
I fabbed up a skinny wrench to get to the back one (use a normal wrench to break it free first):
The top bolt is obviously easy. 20 minutes to remove the PS bracket- tops. You could do it with the water pump still bolted up but it would be harder.
Last edited by Black Z/28; 01-27-2006 at 08:26 AM.
01-27-2006, 12:24 PM
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Thanks for all the great responses and tips. Looks like I'll be going to the flea market this weekend to buy a couple 50 cent Chinese 15mm wrenches: one to make into a stubby and another to bend with a torch. I couldn't bear to do that to a Craftsman, Snap-On or other quality tool. Of course, I'll break the bolts loose with a good wrench first.
I've previously done something similar by cutting a 15mm box/open wrench in half and welding the ends to a 1/2" X 15" steel bar. This is perfect for pivoting the serpantine belt tensioner and can be stored in the back with a spare belt for an emergency.
I've previously done something similar by cutting a 15mm box/open wrench in half and welding the ends to a 1/2" X 15" steel bar. This is perfect for pivoting the serpantine belt tensioner and can be stored in the back with a spare belt for an emergency.