408 Stroker up and running
Ok these are the parts and cost in Australian dollars went from water pump back to the clutch for parts $13,000. I managed to sell off new and old LS1 parts for $4200, block, heads, diff, TB, manifold etc. The total drive train package, motor, diff, installation and tune will come in at $14,500 ($1500 for tune)- $4200 on parts sold so out of pocket about $10,300. The intake pipe is a HSV pipe and still running a stock maf until its tuned "ok enough of that", its amazing how much the PCM can accommodate major changes in the drive train, very drivable considering it still has a stock auto tune. Stock injectors are still used will change over during tuning. I have retained the auto radiator and have run the power steering through existing trans cooler connection. Relocated the battery in the boot had small problem with a good earth connection now fixed. I have used running in oil and went for a drive to bed the rings in, its hard to stay civilized doing that. Ok Just need to find a good tuner.
Problem areas
Windage tray needs spacers to clear rods, included with the ARP studs.
There are two dipstick holes, one on the iron block, one on the LS1 sump normal position, needed to plug the hole in the block.
There is a bolt hole missing where the alternator bracket bolts on to, but there is enough there to keep it secure.
The extra weight does lower the front a fair bit by 2-3 inches no good if you already have lowered springs. No noticeable difference in handling.
Engine mount bracket setup on the iron block has a four hole setup but the Ozzie bracket only has three hole, it lines up ok.
On the Patriot heads there were no holes for the lift point (brackets) to bolt on, may be a problem lifting the engine back in.
Increased noise from under fast intake manifold is noticed.
tricky getting the spiral locks on the pistons.
power steering reservoir bracket needed shimming 15mm out to clear intake.
crossover vent pipes on front of heads needed bending down 15mm to allow intake to sit flush.
use a large heavy-duty plastic bag to wrap the engine in on the stand as it will collect a lot of dust over a long period of assembly.
Keep the machined parts like bores and deck lightly oiled as it will rust in no time.
Parts
Iron block 6.0L decked 0.022 bored 0.030
4.000 nod iron crank balanced 4 slugs of mallory and snout keyed
h beam custom forged rods 6.098
Wiseco-forged dished pistons -8cc 1.115ch
Plasma rings
Patriot Heads LS6 stage II 64cc comp of 11.1:1
Comp Cam 244/248-609/615 @50 LSA 112
25% crank pulley
dual chain
home ported oil pump
Baffled sump
LSX 90mm fast manifold
90mm Fast TB
42lb Injectors
Wanbro fuel pump
Manley pushrods 7.400
Yella terra roller rockers 1.7
Ceramic clutch
Billet steel flywheel
Diff 4.11:1 rebuilt lsd
Pilot bearing
Cam bearings
Rod bearings
Main bearings
arp head studs
arp main studs
arp cam bolts
arp clutch bolts
arp fly wheel bolts
arp exh studs
arp crank bolt
head gaskets cometic 4.030 @ 0.051
front and rear seals
sump gasket
valley gasket
cross over vent pipe updated version
block screw in oil and coolant plugs
custom made reluctor
all parts balanced
torque plated.
tools you need to make things easy
minimum 4 car stands
trolley jack
engine crane to lift iron block engine and gearbox
strong engine stand.
good quality socket set
feeler gage set
measuring tools
quality torque wrench
functional work bench
air compressor a must have
oils lubes sealant
break fluid
10L running in oil
coolant
RTV sealant
assembly lube, lots of.
anti seize paste
Loctite various strengths
cleaning solvent
Link to sound clip
http://video.ls1tech.com/player.aspx...F-7E876718780A
http://media.putfile.com/408-stroker
links to pic
http://img151.imageshack.us/my.php?image=00002435uy.jpg
http://img147.imageshack.us/my.php?image=00002408vz.jpg
http://img147.imageshack.us/my.php?image=00002295yf.jpg
http://img147.imageshack.us/my.php?image=00002305az.jpg
http://img208.imageshack.us/my.php?image=00002324ch.jpg
There are two dipstick holes, one on the iron block, one on the LS1 sump normal position, needed to plug the hole in the block.
https://ls1tech.com/forums/generation-iv-internal-engine/433240-started-install-my-ls2-402-slp-w-pics.html
I am currently wrestling with the tune situation and just ironed out my problem codes and got her to where she idles and is driveable. Just waiting on HPTuner and 42 lb injectors to dial it in.
The sump I used is the same setup as your GTO, when I fitted the sump I noticed that on the iron block a hole for the dipstick which is not the location to place it the GTO has a dipstick hole on the sump. Do the sumps over there on LS1's mounted back to front, does any of this makes sence. cheers
All links should now work
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