PCV Delete Guys - Problems Running Just Breathers?
09-16-2010, 06:05 PM
#62
I've deleted my pcv when i added the TVS.. anything to look out for? any new info since 2006? Hows everybodys breathers holdiong up? I'm going to be running a vented catch can..(allstar5 perfprmance) anyone else running a vented can?
09-16-2010, 09:13 PM
#63
11 Second Club
hey guys dont use that K&N breather. get one thats made to actually fit the oil cap spot. go to jegs and look up part number 103032
thats what i use and its awesome
thats what i use and its awesome
09-16-2010, 10:35 PM
#64
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How can an open breather do a better job at evacuating crankcase pressure, than the same hole, hooked to. Vacuum pump? Seems to me that a small amount of suction would have to be better than just letting the gasses find their own way out of the crankcase.
09-17-2010, 05:03 AM
#65
For a race application, that you're changing the oil on every track trip, if you're not going to run a vaccum pump, I'd run a breather and be done with it. You have no concern if you're chainging the oil every track trip of contamination, or any of that. I did it for 2 years, motor was still perfect when it came out of the car. I pulled the valvecovers to check the springs, pan to check the bottom end before selling it and everything was perfect, looked brand new inside, and I ran it with a breather setup for 2 years. Every track trip, I changed the oil, which I think is probably the best thing you can do for a race engine.
Street car, you can do what you want, for the first 20 years of hot rodding before emmissions testing required the PCV setup on cars.. everyone ran them open breather. Hell cars came from the factory that way. Doesn't make it right or wrong, but if it was that bad it would have never been on a factory car that way.
Street car, you can do what you want, for the first 20 years of hot rodding before emmissions testing required the PCV setup on cars.. everyone ran them open breather. Hell cars came from the factory that way. Doesn't make it right or wrong, but if it was that bad it would have never been on a factory car that way.
09-17-2010, 09:27 AM
#66
That's very debatable. Oil quality today, the ability of the filter to do it's job, engine design, the ability of manufacturer's to control tolerances, are all more likly the cause of engine life being substantially longer. The actual PCV is not the cause of engines being able to go 3 times as long as they used to. I've been ripping into engines for damn near 25 years, the actual maintenance, and oil used are by far the determining factor to what's seen inside a motor that's been together for any substantial amount of time.
I've had this argument with too many people on here, have given pictuers of engines that were together for substantial amounts of time, and the point still doesn't get across.
Change your oil, WHILE THE OIL IS HOT and the contaminents in the engine are all IN THE OIL, and will get drained out.
If you want to run a breather that's fine, just keep up with the 3000 mile schedule at the MAX and it won't be a problem.
I had this same argument with another memner on here, tlewis a while ago. Only thing he was doing was trying to back door sell catch cans that his company (a previous sponsor) was making.
I've had this argument with too many people on here, have given pictuers of engines that were together for substantial amounts of time, and the point still doesn't get across.
Change your oil, WHILE THE OIL IS HOT and the contaminents in the engine are all IN THE OIL, and will get drained out.
If you want to run a breather that's fine, just keep up with the 3000 mile schedule at the MAX and it won't be a problem.
I had this same argument with another memner on here, tlewis a while ago. Only thing he was doing was trying to back door sell catch cans that his company (a previous sponsor) was making.
09-17-2010, 09:49 AM
#67
I have been running a breather now for over 5 years and 150,000 miles...the engine has 218,000 + miles on it and still runs great...no oil in the intake and oil consuption has been a half quart every 2500 miles since new...it is a H/C and all the bolt ons daily driver making 452/418 .. it sure has worked out well for me.
09-17-2010, 10:40 AM
#68
Well, looks like I'll be ripping out my PCV & tossin out the idea of a catch can on mine as well. I have been debating this for a while now. Only thing I was ever worried about was it being daily driven & the oil change mileage. I'm a ritual 3k mile change guy personally & I dont run synthetic oil, just regular Castrol GTX 10w30 year round.
For those of you daily driving with no PCV at all & running breathers on both valve covers, are you getting any oil misting in the engine bay? How frequently do you have to change or clean your breathers?
I'd like to do this change when I do the wire mod & TCS relocation to clean everything up.
For those of you daily driving with no PCV at all & running breathers on both valve covers, are you getting any oil misting in the engine bay? How frequently do you have to change or clean your breathers?
I'd like to do this change when I do the wire mod & TCS relocation to clean everything up.
09-17-2010, 12:15 PM
#69
You will get some oil misting, nothing disasterous. If you're the type that cleans the engine bay on a regular basis it's nothing to worry about.
I never liked synthetic oil, it doesn't burn if you get any blowby or anything like that, and generally from the engines I have seen apart it gunks the valves up moore inside the ports. Again, not a solid 100% all the time, but I have noticed it on some engines that were 100% synthetic all their lives, that I thought could only have been caused by the oil.
I ran nothing but 20-50 castrol in my last motor and changed it every track trip, wether that be 3 or 8 runs. Only time I didn't is if I made only 1 run.
Original motor didn't have squat for miles on it, but it was 4 years old when it puked... the thing was spotless inside too, and I had a breather on that for a while too.
Thing with catch cans, the only people I see really really pushing them, are people that are selling them. It's funny like that.
I never liked synthetic oil, it doesn't burn if you get any blowby or anything like that, and generally from the engines I have seen apart it gunks the valves up moore inside the ports. Again, not a solid 100% all the time, but I have noticed it on some engines that were 100% synthetic all their lives, that I thought could only have been caused by the oil.
I ran nothing but 20-50 castrol in my last motor and changed it every track trip, wether that be 3 or 8 runs. Only time I didn't is if I made only 1 run.
Original motor didn't have squat for miles on it, but it was 4 years old when it puked... the thing was spotless inside too, and I had a breather on that for a while too.
Thing with catch cans, the only people I see really really pushing them, are people that are selling them. It's funny like that.
09-17-2010, 01:23 PM
#71
Well, looks like I'll be goin with breathers. I guess I could get a shielded one on the passenger side to help keep it a little cleaner. I havent spent alot of time cleaning under my hood over the years, more wrench turning. But I'm at the point now I'm wanting to clean things up in that cluttered up engine bay.
09-17-2010, 04:57 PM
#73
metco makes a nice one that goes right in place of the filler cap. What I usually do, is take the rear pcv hookup's, and tie them together with a piece of rubber hose, so that the pressure is equeal everywhere.
The single metco breather, usually is adequate.
If you REALLY don't want any oil residue, you can put a breather tank in the car like the one moroso uses, and run a -10 line from the oil fill cap to the tank, that way there's no oil all over the engine bay. This is what I did with my old motor, as the valve covers had a -10 fitting on each cover.
The single metco breather, usually is adequate.
If you REALLY don't want any oil residue, you can put a breather tank in the car like the one moroso uses, and run a -10 line from the oil fill cap to the tank, that way there's no oil all over the engine bay. This is what I did with my old motor, as the valve covers had a -10 fitting on each cover.
09-18-2010, 03:48 PM
#74
I never really get much in the way of oil mist in my engine bay. But I do wash my breather once a month with brake clean and compressed air. I wash the engine bay twice a year with degreaser and water. It never looks real nasty but I have been on the twice a year engine bay bath routine since the car was new. It keeps everything nice and clean looking. I relocated the coil packs years ago so it is less cluttered with them up under the cowl.
09-21-2010, 10:11 AM
#76
09-21-2010, 12:28 PM
#77
All of that blah blah means absolutely nothing if you drain the oil while it's hot. All that nonsense comes right out in the oil, and you're left with a clean engine.
Get back to me when you've pulled a dozen or so of these apart that have been run with various different setups and different maintenance habits.
The cleanest engine, by far that I've taken apart was one that had a breather on it from a VERY early age, and always had the oil changed at 2700 to 2900 miles, and drained while HOT.
I can not stress enough, that the draining while hot is key. The engine must be at temp when the oil is drained. This will allow all the contaminents to get into the oil, therefore be drained out along with the oil.
You can "sales pitch" for the catch cans in the above thread, but don't think you're fooling anyone with those thing. That asshat Tlewis4096 did the same thing with the revextreme ones, and was caught backdoor selling. The above ones, which do appear to have a better design then I have seen, are still not a silver bullet. As long as there is an inlet on the intake attached to the crankcase, no matter what you put in line with it, eventually YOU WILL GET OIL IN THE INTAKE.
That, is fact. You can run a line from the front of the car all the way to the trunk and put the can there, then run a line back to the front if you want, end of the day, oil is going to get in the intake, one way or another. Unless, you completely disconnect it.
I will say a vaccum pump is by far the best way to go about this. But, if you can't afford one or it's not pratical for your particular application, Vent the crankcase. The blowby, that even a stock engine has, is enough to push a LARGE portion of the contaminents out, and the rest, will come out with the HOT OIL.
Get back to me when you've pulled a dozen or so of these apart that have been run with various different setups and different maintenance habits.
The cleanest engine, by far that I've taken apart was one that had a breather on it from a VERY early age, and always had the oil changed at 2700 to 2900 miles, and drained while HOT.
I can not stress enough, that the draining while hot is key. The engine must be at temp when the oil is drained. This will allow all the contaminents to get into the oil, therefore be drained out along with the oil.
You can "sales pitch" for the catch cans in the above thread, but don't think you're fooling anyone with those thing. That asshat Tlewis4096 did the same thing with the revextreme ones, and was caught backdoor selling. The above ones, which do appear to have a better design then I have seen, are still not a silver bullet. As long as there is an inlet on the intake attached to the crankcase, no matter what you put in line with it, eventually YOU WILL GET OIL IN THE INTAKE.
That, is fact. You can run a line from the front of the car all the way to the trunk and put the can there, then run a line back to the front if you want, end of the day, oil is going to get in the intake, one way or another. Unless, you completely disconnect it.
I will say a vaccum pump is by far the best way to go about this. But, if you can't afford one or it's not pratical for your particular application, Vent the crankcase. The blowby, that even a stock engine has, is enough to push a LARGE portion of the contaminents out, and the rest, will come out with the HOT OIL.
09-21-2010, 12:30 PM
#78
I ran a -10 line from both valve covers to a moroso breather can, worked great, no oil anywhere. The can collected it's share of junk too, certainly nothing I wanted in the intake of the car that's for sure.
09-21-2010, 04:29 PM
#79
^^LOL, says the newb who probably has never tore down a LS1 engine in their life. You should really do some reading around here before you go callin people with tons of experience idiots & tryin to sway people to listen to your opinion.
I see far too many new members on this board lately acting like they know more about these engines than long time members who have been building them since the late 90's when the LS series was introduced.
I see far too many new members on this board lately acting like they know more about these engines than long time members who have been building them since the late 90's when the LS series was introduced.
09-21-2010, 04:48 PM
#80
I never claimed to be some racing legend or engine building professional. I do my own wrench turning & help my friends on their cars. I'm a basic little "shadetree" mechanic. But in the few years I have worked on these LS1 engines I have discovered what does & doesnt work.
And if you bring the thinking from old school 350's into the LS engines your gonna be WAY off base. But what do I know, I have only spent everyday for the past 6yrs learning about these motor specifically & mine still runs perfectly fine with over 150k miles on it so obviously I'm doin something right.
And if you bring the thinking from old school 350's into the LS engines your gonna be WAY off base. But what do I know, I have only spent everyday for the past 6yrs learning about these motor specifically & mine still runs perfectly fine with over 150k miles on it so obviously I'm doin something right.