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crank pulley came off, threadlocker?

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Old Feb 26, 2006 | 06:34 PM
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Default crank pulley came off, threadlocker?

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threadlocker or not? Crank pulley came off.....

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Well I certainly felt smug after doing my own cam swap with a friend, and then after dynoing and driving around for a few days the crank pulley decided to come off.

Yeah this happened around 160 mph with a run in with a GSXR 600. Luckily the steering rack held it on for dear life, and I was able to limp it home without the main belt coming off or breaking. Lost a lot of oil out of the seal.

After some research, we have come to the conclusion that certain types of threadlocker MAY become a lubricant when heated, AWESOME.

Those who have had this happen, was threadlocker used? And what kind? Cause from what I gather red loctite works, and not whatever we used even though it was high temp.

Ive never pinned a crank before, but if its not to difficult Id certainly like to do it this time around.

So whats the verdict on threadlocker, and how do I pin this *****?
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Old Feb 26, 2006 | 07:30 PM
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TTT, come on LS1 masters....
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Old Feb 26, 2006 | 08:07 PM
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No need for threadlock if you torqued it to spec and used a new crank bolt.
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Old Feb 26, 2006 | 08:14 PM
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I used the recommended threadlock when I put in the new bolt after I did the ASP pulley install. Don't remember which threadlock it was but I have not had any problems. I haven't taken my car to 160 either. Those crank bolts are high torque + degrees. Did you do that during install?
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Old Feb 26, 2006 | 08:24 PM
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It's supposed to be torqued to 240 ft/lbs reusing your old crank bolt. Then, remove the bolt and install the new crank bolt, torquing to 37 ft/lb. Once that's done, get a breaker bar out and try and turn it 140 degrees past where it is now. I got about 100 degrees turned on mine and have never had a problem, no loctite either, not sure where you heard you needed that for the stock GM TTY bolt.
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Old Feb 26, 2006 | 08:29 PM
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Originally Posted by ArcticZ28
It's supposed to be torqued to 240 ft/lbs reusing your old crank bolt. Then, remove the bolt and install the new crank bolt, torquing to 37 ft/lb. Once that's done, get a breaker bar out and try and turn it 140 degrees past where it is now. I got about 100 degrees turned on mine and have never had a problem, no loctite either, not sure where you heard you needed that for the stock GM TTY bolt.
I never made it the plus degrees either w/ the breaker bar. I thought that since I could easily bench over 200 lbs that it would not be a problem...don't tell my wife I was wrong.
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Old Feb 26, 2006 | 08:35 PM
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Are you sure you didn't toast your balancer? Mine eased off about 1/4" durning a dyno pull (dumped oil and frayed the belt) and the general consenses both on the forum, and from a vendor I asked, was to change out the balancer. I borrowed a pinning tool and will be pinning it this time!
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Old Feb 26, 2006 | 09:35 PM
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Pinning the crank is very easy and it is "the" solution to the "walking dampner" issue. I pinned mine simply so I wouldn't have to go through the crazy-highTQ non-sense, worked out great.
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Old Feb 26, 2006 | 09:45 PM
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Originally Posted by BOTTLE ROCKET
Are you sure you didn't toast your balancer? Mine eased off about 1/4" durning a dyno pull (dumped oil and frayed the belt) and the general consenses both on the forum, and from a vendor I asked, was to change out the balancer. I borrowed a pinning tool and will be pinning it this time!
Are you referring to the crank pulley? Balancer? Well it inched forward about an inch and rested on the steering rack, the belt wasnt frayed.

Where did you get the pinning tool from? I want to pin my crank pulley too, but dont know how.
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Old Feb 26, 2006 | 09:46 PM
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Originally Posted by Dan_the_C5_Man
Pinning the crank is very easy and it is "the" solution to the "walking dampner" issue. I pinned mine simply so I wouldn't have to go through the crazy-highTQ non-sense, worked out great.
How?! Please elaborate, I want to pin this *****.
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Old Feb 28, 2006 | 08:16 AM
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I responded to your post over on the Z06vette forum.
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Old Feb 28, 2006 | 08:56 AM
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Most likely new bolt was not used.
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Old Feb 28, 2006 | 09:04 AM
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Originally Posted by DrkPhx
No need for threadlock if you torqued it to spec and used a new crank bolt.
im thinking the same thing...
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Old Feb 28, 2006 | 10:06 AM
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ATI has the pin kit it is about $130 but not nessesary on a NA car. All you need is a new bolt and the correct TQ.

Nate
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Old Feb 28, 2006 | 12:38 PM
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Originally Posted by 777
Most likely new bolt was not used.
New bolt WAS used, were not that retarded. Our torquing methods were in question, no tq wrench, just a lot of pressure with 1.5 ft of extension on it.

Now we WILL be torquing to 37 ft lbs+120 degrees, with red loctite #262.

This whole ordeal gave me the excuse to do this the right way, with an ASP underdrive pulley anyways. Thanks all for the replies.
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Old Feb 28, 2006 | 12:48 PM
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No need for locktite.
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Old Feb 28, 2006 | 12:59 PM
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Originally Posted by 777
No need for locktite.
Why did my new crank bolt come with red thread locker under the washer head???
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Old Feb 28, 2006 | 01:01 PM
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Because that's the way the stock bolts are. That's why you don't need additional thread locker.
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Old Feb 28, 2006 | 04:13 PM
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I hit the 240 lb ft. with my 250 lb torque wrench and then 37 lb ft. and then got between 100 and 140 extra degrees with out any problems
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Old Feb 28, 2006 | 05:32 PM
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I really don't like the idea of loctite on the threads, its not called for in the manual. With a new pulley and bolt, proper tightening procedure, I think you put yourself at risk of later problems if you have to disassemble again. Just my opinion though.
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