Can you make 500rwhp all engine?
03-09-2006, 09:20 AM
#1
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Can you make 500rwhp all engine? Is there any way to get 500rwhp from just mod's like cam,heads, headers, y pipe, intake manifold, roller rockers, and push rods? And you have all the suspension work you need done. Could you make 500rwhp with this setup? And what do you products do you recommend for a street driven car only driven on really nice days. What I am really saying is there a way to make 500rwhp without boaring, nitrious, superchargers,turbo's or buying a bigger engine?
Last edited by gunnerpaintball; 03-09-2006 at 09:36 AM.
03-09-2006, 09:32 AM
#4
About the highest rwhp you'll typically see with cam-only setups running hydraulic cams are in the 450-460 rwhp range. The lower compression and lower airflow of the stock heads seems to be the biggest barrier to cresting 500 rwhp. If you add ported heads, exceeding 500 rwhp is definitely achievable. I suppose if you put a solid roller setup on your motor, you might get closer to 500 rwhp, but the associated cost of turning your motor to the required 7500-8000 rpm would outweigh what a good set of cylinder heads would cost.
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2013 Corvette Grand Sport A6 LME forged 416, Greg Good ported TFS 255 LS3 heads, 222/242 .629"/.604" 121LSA Pat G blower cam, ARH 1 7/8" headers, ESC Novi 1500 Supercharger w/8 rib direct drive conversion, 747rwhp/709rwtq on 93 octane, 801rwhp/735rwtq on race fuel, 10.1 @ 147.25mph 1/4 mile, 174.7mph Half Mile.
2016 Corvette Z51 M7 Magnuson Heartbeat 2300 supercharger, TSP LT headers, Pat G tuned, 667rwhp, 662rwtq, 191mph TX Mile.
2009.5 Pontiac G8 GT 6.0L, A6, AFR 230v2 heads. 506rwhp/442rwtq. 11.413 @ 121.29mph 1/4 mile, 168.7mph TX Mile
2000 Pewter Ram Air Trans Am M6 heads/cam 508 rwhp/445 rwtq SAE, 183.092 TX Mile
2018 Cadillac Escalade 6.2L A10 Pat G tuned.
LS1,LS2,LS3,LS7,LT1 Custom Camshaft Specialist For custom camshaft help press here.
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2013 Corvette Grand Sport A6 LME forged 416, Greg Good ported TFS 255 LS3 heads, 222/242 .629"/.604" 121LSA Pat G blower cam, ARH 1 7/8" headers, ESC Novi 1500 Supercharger w/8 rib direct drive conversion, 747rwhp/709rwtq on 93 octane, 801rwhp/735rwtq on race fuel, 10.1 @ 147.25mph 1/4 mile, 174.7mph Half Mile.
2016 Corvette Z51 M7 Magnuson Heartbeat 2300 supercharger, TSP LT headers, Pat G tuned, 667rwhp, 662rwtq, 191mph TX Mile.
2009.5 Pontiac G8 GT 6.0L, A6, AFR 230v2 heads. 506rwhp/442rwtq. 11.413 @ 121.29mph 1/4 mile, 168.7mph TX Mile
2000 Pewter Ram Air Trans Am M6 heads/cam 508 rwhp/445 rwtq SAE, 183.092 TX Mile
2018 Cadillac Escalade 6.2L A10 Pat G tuned.
LS1,LS2,LS3,LS7,LT1 Custom Camshaft Specialist For custom camshaft help press here.
Custom LSX tuning in person or via email press here.
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03-09-2006, 09:36 AM
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You could do it, but as far as being streetable, you'd have to alter your definition of the word. A forged 346 could be cammed with oversized valves and massively ported heads, big injectors, ported 90/90 intake setup, and big-tube LTs with stovepipe-sized exhaust, along with all the necessary mods for the motor to hold up at the extreme rpm that you'd make 500 whp at. But to be honest, you're better off going FI, NO2, or bigger cubes, as they all can make the same power and more at lower and less stressful rpm.
When I say extreme rpm, I'm talking like 8000+ and climbing. FEW motors live long that high.
When I say extreme rpm, I'm talking like 8000+ and climbing. FEW motors live long that high.
03-09-2006, 10:06 AM
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So you think it would be charper to buy a bigger engine and put all those mods on it then? What is the cheapest way to get 500rwhp without getting a supercharger,nitrious, or turbo.
03-09-2006, 10:24 AM
#11
Yes, it is possible. Probably not even that hard.
First, you will use a solid roller cam, probably around 250@.050 with around .675-.725 lift. This cam will be about the same as a 230-236 hydaulic on the seats.
Probably only modest sized heads, but ones that don't stall at big lift. You will need a decent spring (say 200-230 on the seat, 480-525 #/in rate).
Push compression to 11.x something, maybe 8.3-8.5 dynamic.
Either a Harrop or Fast, but a ditch the MAF. I would like to see the Harrop so the runner length can be tuned. On a carb you can do that tuning with a spacer.
30-32" 1.75" headers with a good merge collector and x-pipes. 3" or 3.5" exhaust all the way with high flowing mufflers.
A strong bottom end. If you are racing a light bottom end, however on slow dyno pull the weight won't make a difference. You need the strength because you will be reving past 7000 rpm, maybe 7500.
A deep oil pan with a good windage tray, or better, a dry sump. The first is to keep oil off the crank. The second does that and creates vacuum. You could also use a vacuum pump. Either will let you run low tension rings.
If you have time to do tuning, you may want to coat the combustion chambers, exhaust ports, valves, and pistons. This will reduce detonation ever so little, allowing you to run more compression/timing.
You may want an oil release coating on the crank arms and connecting rods, also to control oil flow.
The gears and shafts in the transmission and diff should also be coated, and those components blueprinted to reduce driveline losses.
That should get you in to the 550-600 range at the crank and 500 at the wheels. The motor will cost around $20k to build.
The question is: why? The only sane answer could be racing rules.
First, you will use a solid roller cam, probably around 250@.050 with around .675-.725 lift. This cam will be about the same as a 230-236 hydaulic on the seats.
Probably only modest sized heads, but ones that don't stall at big lift. You will need a decent spring (say 200-230 on the seat, 480-525 #/in rate).
Push compression to 11.x something, maybe 8.3-8.5 dynamic.
Either a Harrop or Fast, but a ditch the MAF. I would like to see the Harrop so the runner length can be tuned. On a carb you can do that tuning with a spacer.
30-32" 1.75" headers with a good merge collector and x-pipes. 3" or 3.5" exhaust all the way with high flowing mufflers.
A strong bottom end. If you are racing a light bottom end, however on slow dyno pull the weight won't make a difference. You need the strength because you will be reving past 7000 rpm, maybe 7500.
A deep oil pan with a good windage tray, or better, a dry sump. The first is to keep oil off the crank. The second does that and creates vacuum. You could also use a vacuum pump. Either will let you run low tension rings.
If you have time to do tuning, you may want to coat the combustion chambers, exhaust ports, valves, and pistons. This will reduce detonation ever so little, allowing you to run more compression/timing.
You may want an oil release coating on the crank arms and connecting rods, also to control oil flow.
The gears and shafts in the transmission and diff should also be coated, and those components blueprinted to reduce driveline losses.
That should get you in to the 550-600 range at the crank and 500 at the wheels. The motor will cost around $20k to build.
The question is: why? The only sane answer could be racing rules.
03-09-2006, 10:28 AM
#12
For the cost of forgeing your moter to take that kind of stress it wouldn't be that much more $ to get a bigger cubed short block. To get that kind of power you will need a good H/C pacage. So why no get a H/C for a bigger moter. You will have a lot more reliable set up and wont have to spin your 346 to sky. Also if you blow your moter you might be spending twice the money to acheive the same goal.
03-09-2006, 11:45 AM
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Yeah, and after you spend 20k on 500 N/A RWHP you'll have to spend another 15k on the rest of your car so it can handle that much power! Because a stock drivetrain, suspension, etc...just wont cut it for very long.
This is why there are so many fart box honda's on the road. LMAO
Just make sure that when you do build a motor that it can still run on pump gas, because mixing fuel and only being able to drive down the track sucks.
This is why there are so many fart box honda's on the road. LMAO
Just make sure that when you do build a motor that it can still run on pump gas, because mixing fuel and only being able to drive down the track sucks.
03-09-2006, 11:52 AM
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Im having a very hard time understanding you. Why not just build a nice H/C 346 that makes ~450rwhp or so? You really wanna spend an extra 15 grand for 50 rwhp?? Why not just spray?
Correct me if Im wrong but you have A LOT of researching you need to do.
Correct me if Im wrong but you have A LOT of researching you need to do.
03-09-2006, 11:59 AM
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just go buy the new LS7 motor from the new Z06 Corvettes and have around 500 hp on a stock motor. or if you wanted just do heads and a cam and get some NOS that will get you up in the 500+ range.