JZ'sTA

iTrader: (23)

ETP 215's, fast 90/90, full bolton's, 4400+ stall, 3.73 gear, 11.75:1 CR.
Street driven, but I like having a fast fun street car and am trying to run 10's NA full weight with a full slick.

Here is my question.
I was about to order a 234/238 598/605 on a 115+4 as I wanted to have better street manner's but not have to shift over 7000 RPM's.
Now I have been thinking about trying a LSK style cam.
Maybe the Trak that thunderracing.com
Which is a 231/234 .640/.590 112 LSA, I was gonna change this to a 115+4 also.
Or maybe something a bit smaller like a 228 LSK intake, 232 XER exhaust again with a 115 LSA and 4 degree's of advance to try and pull the power band down a bit. (I guess even a 114+4 will work)

Is it even worth trying the LSK lobes?
I have to think power will be similar at peak but maybe the LSK cam will make a hair more down low.
Throw some input in here please.
Which will have the best street mannor's, and the best driveability after tuning?

s346k

iTrader: (4)

actually the lsk would make less down low, as it is a "lazier" lobe.

with a cam small you shouldn't have any trouble running an xe-r lobe. the xe-r theoretically would give you more power sooner, but i'm not sure if it would be noticable considering the rest of your setup.

Beast96Z

iTrader: (21)

That's not true. The LSK has a faster .200" opening than the XE-R, which makes it "more harsh" than a XE-R down low. It's a bit easier on the let down of the valve, which is a good thing. Your looking at the advertised - .050" number only. You have to look at the whole profile and you'll see that the LSK is 2* bigger than a comparable XE-R at .200".

As for the question at hand, the higher lift flow of the ET heads is very good, and you should be able to take advantage of the higher lift LSK lobes. Look to the point that the head starts to fall, and plan your peak lift around that. If they fall off around .600", use a XE-R, but .620+ could take advantage of the LSK.

Patrick G

iTrader: (14)

Not true. While the LSK is lazier than the XE-R from .006" lift to .050", it kicks the XE-R's *** at .200. In fact, a 223 XE-R lobe has more area under the curve than a 230 XE-R lobe.

I would highly caution doing a wide LSA cam with lots of advance. It will have weak mid-range torque because you'll have such an early exhaust valve opening point. You'll also have mediocre DCR with this approach too. Ideally, the LS1s see to make best power with narrower LSA when running the factory style intakes (FAST, LS6). Reason why is the runner length and cross-sectional area of the manifolds sort of dictate a power peak of 6300 and a torque peak of 4800. You'll make the most power under the curve by grinding a cam that exploits maximizing this area under the curve.

Basically, you want to have your DCR above 8.5:1, possibly even 8.8. This is very hard to do with a wide LSA, big duration cam, even with 4 degrees of advance. You'll also want to keep your intake valve closing point between 44-46 degrees ABDC and your EVO somewhere between 46-50 degrees BBDC. This will ensure you make superior mid-range torque and outstanding top-end power (within the confines of the factory manifold).

My suggestion? 231/234 .643/.646 110LSA 110ICL cam with LSK lobes. It will be comparable to a 236/240 XE-R cam, but with even more lift.

ThirdGenLS1

iTrader: (11)

Hey Patrick how do you think that cam will do on a stock headed LS1, compared to the normal Trak cam with the XE-R lobe on the exhuast.

Justin

Patrick G

iTrader: (14)

I would be a mean ****. Stronger than the TRak cam and stronger than other cams of similar duration. Area under the curve baby!

ThirdGenLS1

iTrader: (11)

hhmmm, maybe i should give thunder a call tomorrow. Right now i got a f14 on order but it wont ship for another 3 weeks, might have to cancel it and change my mind AGAIN. How do you think that cam will compare to the f14.

Oh and i'm sorry about stealing your thread, i'll take this to pm.

s346k

iTrader: (4)

me =

i have read that the xe-r comes off the seat faster, however, i failed to recognize that the lsk surpassed in the later events. also, the lsk closes the valve softer, which would make less valve bounce, correct? would this create any horsepower gains say..above 6k?

let's take one cam's specs and compare the effect of the lobe differences, for reference:

238/246 .600/.610 110+0 lsa.

i am curious about the lsk lobes, as i have read the xe-r will be the hardest on the valvetrain, yet generate better results...strictly in terms of performance, ie the 1/4 mile ET & trap.

it's like lsk lobes were unheard of until thunder's trak cam..i'm just wondering why they didn't get much attention until now.

Patrick G

iTrader: (14)

The LSK lobes were a proprietary lobe that Comp made exclusively for Lingenfelter. LSK stands for Lingenfelter's Serious Kam (or maybe it's Lousy Spring Killers, I can't remember, LOL). Anyway, the cam lobes are not carried in Comp's master catalog and not many of the Comp sales people know about them. Geoff at Thunder Racing has been the champion of these lobes and has had outstanding success with them. If you want a cam with LSK lobes and you want it to be ground CORRECTLY, my suggestion is to call Geoff at Thunder Racing.

ThirdGenLS1

iTrader: (11)

i think i'm going to give him a call tomorrow

JZ'sTA

iTrader: (23)

Thanks Pat. I however can't see myself puting a 110/110 in this car. I want to keep it as streetable as possible with as good of street mannor's as possible and at the same time have a very fast fun ride. I have a race car so this is just a play toy that looks nice, is full weight, has a nice radio, etc.
If I loose 10 HP to gain 20% better driveability I am fine with that.
I have ordered cams for customers quite a few times but I guess when I am thinking of something for myself I go in retard mode.

I do however know what your saying with the intake choices we have however friday we did a 215 ET combo with a 90/90 and a 232/236 112 cam and the car was over 460 hp from 6000+ and made peak at 6700 RPM's. These heads kick a little extra *** up top.
Also I am in a 4400 stall and my car never see's much under 6000 RPM's during WOT. I would like to shift by 7000 RPM's just for the fact that I am trying to keep the motor together.
If nothing else at least this thread has been helpful for some other members.

Patrick G

iTrader: (14)

I couldn't agree more. That's why I'm sticking a 223/227 110LSA cam in my car in a week or two. It will have much better street manners than the 232/236 112LSA cam in your example. FYI, my 110LSA cam only has 5 degrees of overlap at .050" and your 112LSA cam has 10 degrees. My 110LSA cam will have around the same area valve area under the curve as your larger duration cam, but with better mid-range torque and smoother street manners. I know I'm preaching to the converted, but for those who don't know, you can't just look at LSA alone, you have to look at total overlap to determine street manners. Now that 231/235 110LSA cam I mentioned above, well let's just say that thing would be NASTY with LSK lobes!

JZ'sTA

iTrader: (23)

Damn 6 speed cars........ You guys always get the better driveability.
Your preaching helped me learn back in the day and still helps me learn today.
I have yet to master camshafts and this one will be my 15 cam in my personal LS1 cars. One day I will get it down. I should just forget the LSK stuff and go with a cam that always make clean good HP in a auto and throw that 228/232 588/595 112LSA 108 intake center line in the car and call it a day.
My problem is I took that exact cam out of a 6 speed car last year and went with a 234/238 598/605 112LSA/108ICL and gained an avarage a 12.2 over the run from 4000-7000 RPM's, and from 3000 where the pull started to 4000 the car was even or a tad bit better then the smaller cam.
Since then I have wanted to try a larger cam in my car (224/228 581/588 113+3 is in there now)
I guess I will kick the idea around a little more and maybe I will just bite the bullett and do something in the middle like a 230/234 on a 110, or try the T Rak TR offers and leave it as designed.

s346k

iTrader: (4)

thanks.

now another twist is added to the delimma that is my cam choice.

SideStep

Pat, I am digging that. You know my current cam has 4 degrees overlap and LOVES to roll away from a red-light...

Can't wait to see your results... Crap, I may buy another set of springs and be doing the same, ... What is the overlap at .006???

FYI: When I went to the 226/230 cam my valve noised diminished significantly... good lord 4+ cams in two years, what am I thinking...

Beast96Z

iTrader: (21)

Are you saying that if i call and give Comp a lobe number that they aren't going to get the right one? Just wondering cause I'm gunna be ordering one soon.

Patrick G

iTrader: (14)

You would think you could just ask for #2126/2127 lobes ground on a 110LSA with no advance and they'd get it right. But the sad fact of the matter is, not all sale reps at Comp are familiar with the lobes (because they're not listed in their catalog). Some may try to steer you toward XFI lobes (listed in catalog) and some will tell you that LSK lobes are for solid rollers, LOL. Best bet is to find a Comp rep who knows WTF they're talking about and order from them. Whoever Geoff from Thunder Racing orders from is a smart *****.

Ed Curtis

You can get what you want... "IF" you know what to order.

And there's more than "LSK" lobes that are available too.

Ed

Ragtop 99

iTrader: (7)

True, but it sure would be nice if all the people at Comp knew what they were talking about.

Quote:

And there's more than "LSK" lobes that are available too.

Yup. Comp has other high lift lobes that work in addition to the LSK. Thunder is using them to grind me a custom order cam. Geoff is the man to talk to. Nice thing too is that TR puts the cam on the cam doctor for you to make sure Comp got it right. Gives a little piece of mind when playing with the non-standard lobes.

Bottom line is TR, a SPONSOR, is a great place to buy a cam.

Beast96Z

iTrader: (21)

Very true. I plan to use something I've never heard anyone use on the exaust.