Cons to putting a cam in my car
TIA
- Irrestible urge to race defenseless Mustangs, grandmothers and school busses off every red light
- SEG stuck in permanent "on" position
- Money spent
- Money going into the cam leaves less money for the N2O setup
Did I miss one?

What would be the first thing to break? IE: whats the next weakest link? im going to think the rear-end or clutch.
Anyone else have any experience with a TSP mail order tune? How much Hp/torque did you gain from your LT's + cam do you think? Also what cam are you running?
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TSP is a well known company with loads of experience. We have a custom dyno tune, with an auto trans, and bigger cam so our numbers are probably a non sequitur.
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I broke two stockers on cheap Kumho tires, never taken my car to a track or launched hard (each one lasted about 20,000 miles). The second one I broke destroyed the rear cover. Even with a grenaded rear cover I was able to baby it about 7 miles to the shop that installed the 12 bolt
with next to no fluid too
-Gas mileage will go to ****, because you can't get off the pedal
-Make your friends jealous with your lopey idle
etc
Probably going to just wait for the clutch and rear to go since I wish I had more money.
What would be the best cam with stock heads and intake also would I notice a big difference between 112 LSA and 114?
I have the exact specs of the cam you are getting and I made sure to get everything else necessary to make it run well, like either ls6 or slp heavy duty oil pump and double roller timing chain (both $315 new). Underdrive pulley is 150 and after you have all the bolt ons, the only thing left is heads and a s/c or turbo. Your rear end will hold up with that cam and if you have a good clutch, it will hold as well. Your redline will be about 7k and you will have fun shifting at 6k, but you will cruise at higher rpms due to the cams driveability range.
Those specs run from 3k to 7k rpms operating range. My dyno chart starts at 3k and the a/f ratio is high and doesn't even out until the cam kicks in. You will not lose much driveability below 3k, but will have to step on the gas a little bit on a cold start, to keep the rpms over 1k for a few seconds, until the idle is steady.






