COMP OEM LIFTERS ..Keep loosing prime
04-20-2006, 01:13 PM
#21
LSxGuy widda 9sec Mustang
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The pressure amount doesn't matter if there is air bubbles in the oil. Having both lifter noise and lower oil pressure points exactly to the o-ring from what I've seen in the past.
04-20-2006, 01:22 PM
#24
LSxGuy widda 9sec Mustang
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Originally Posted by lowchevy2go
ok im gonna go buy a new o-ring. Is there a difference in the 98 and newer cars??
Depends on the pickup tube style, there are 2 different ones. One has a reciever groove, and one doesn't. The one with the groove needs the thicker O-ring, think its a brown O-ring. All the rest use the blue O-ring.
04-20-2006, 01:47 PM
#26
Originally Posted by lowchevy2go
I read that some people were having problems with 98 models pulling KR with the MS3.
Could this be happening and mabye causing the knock.
Could this be happening and mabye causing the knock.
04-20-2006, 04:37 PM
#27
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i have the exact same set up ms3, comp oe lifters, tsp ported pump. i run 40 at idle and 60 driving, i always hearing a ticking while driving. it don't worry about it, the ms3 is a large cam and is going to make some noise. but i agree your oil pressure is low.
04-20-2006, 08:34 PM
#28
Originally Posted by Doc
Flame suit on. Ok guys, I have a 98 also and have done similar mods recently and have replied in another thread similar to this one. https://ls1tech.com/forums/generation-iii-internal-engine/492433-knocking-after-cam-install-advise-please.html
Basically, I believe his oil pressure Indication of 20 psi at warm idle is nothing to get all rilled up about on a 98 car that gets the reading directly from the sensor-not the data bus as on newer Fbodies. Not unlike the reason why GM went with the idiot data bus temp gages too many old skewl peeps freak at the indications of these 98 gages.
As I said tho, with similar mods and similar tribulations I ended up with 7.350 hardened pushrods and spark table adjustments eliminating the metallic tapping noises that occured with some sustained 2500k rpm driving. Not necessarily high (5-6k) or anything like that-just over 2500 for a few minutes and bingo-tapping. Now that I have the problem resolved, I can flash the old (stock) timing tables back in the car and viola-more tapping.
This is not by no means an answer for the what seems like myriad of Tapping threads I have seen lately but, it did solve my problem.
Besides, If you went to the trouble of verifying the integrity of the oil pump pickup tube o-ring...
Tuning
Basically, I believe his oil pressure Indication of 20 psi at warm idle is nothing to get all rilled up about on a 98 car that gets the reading directly from the sensor-not the data bus as on newer Fbodies. Not unlike the reason why GM went with the idiot data bus temp gages too many old skewl peeps freak at the indications of these 98 gages.
As I said tho, with similar mods and similar tribulations I ended up with 7.350 hardened pushrods and spark table adjustments eliminating the metallic tapping noises that occured with some sustained 2500k rpm driving. Not necessarily high (5-6k) or anything like that-just over 2500 for a few minutes and bingo-tapping. Now that I have the problem resolved, I can flash the old (stock) timing tables back in the car and viola-more tapping.
This is not by no means an answer for the what seems like myriad of Tapping threads I have seen lately but, it did solve my problem.
Besides, If you went to the trouble of verifying the integrity of the oil pump pickup tube o-ring...
Tuning
04-20-2006, 10:49 PM
#29
I have a 98 and the same pump as stated previously. I also have the blue o-ring fwiw. Just trying to help troublshoot since we've got some of the same parts going on here. I'm almost positive I've read that the MS3 needs to have a 7.425" pushrod though.
04-23-2006, 06:54 AM
#31
Staging Lane
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Have a similar problem with stock lifters and everything else. Starts up quiet for about 20-30 seconds the the rattling kicks in. It's not the slap that dealers keep teelin' me because I had new lifters put in a while back and the noise went away until I changed the oil and now it's back just as loud as before.
Quiets down when heated but never really goes away. Can't tell if it goes away as revs go up due to engine noise. Oil pressure is still good.
Not trying to steal thread but looking for input.
Quiets down when heated but never really goes away. Can't tell if it goes away as revs go up due to engine noise. Oil pressure is still good.
Not trying to steal thread but looking for input.
04-23-2006, 04:05 PM
#32
Launching!
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when i pull my dipstick out and check the oil it has alot of bubbles in the oil on the dipstick. Is this a sign of the oil pump sucking air into the system due to bad o-ring????
04-24-2006, 04:27 AM
#33
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I am having the same issue with the same parts, lifters and pump were new only 70mls when this started, only difference being cam tsp 231/237. TSP ported LS6 pump made only 40psi cold hot idle or at a rev. I had the pump taken off and put back the standed pump but with the shims from ported pump, O/P now 40psi at idle and 50 at normal driving speed and above.
One lifter still makes a hell of a noise at any thing above an idle the car will then run rough, odd missing and back fire etc. Have now decided to change them. But what brand to use?
One lifter still makes a hell of a noise at any thing above an idle the car will then run rough, odd missing and back fire etc. Have now decided to change them. But what brand to use?
04-24-2006, 01:59 PM
#34
I have a 98 with PRC heads and 233/239 598 603 113lsa cam with the TSP ported oil pump.
My oil pump came with a blue O ring from TSP. I noticed that my old one had a slight rip in it. My old oil pressure was around 29-30psi at idle. Now its around 43 psi.
Did you reuse your seal? I orignaly installed the Oil pump with the old seal,but i found a new seal in the box TSP sent me, so i decided to change it, good thing i did because i had the O ring wasnt on good,also there was a smalll tear in the O ring.
My oil pump came with a blue O ring from TSP. I noticed that my old one had a slight rip in it. My old oil pressure was around 29-30psi at idle. Now its around 43 psi.
Did you reuse your seal? I orignaly installed the Oil pump with the old seal,but i found a new seal in the box TSP sent me, so i decided to change it, good thing i did because i had the O ring wasnt on good,also there was a smalll tear in the O ring.
04-24-2006, 08:29 PM
#37
Originally Posted by lowchevy2go
ya i reused the old one. There wasnt a new one in my box.
Same thing happened to me. guy didn't have a new o ring so i reused his old on. it "looked" ok. started it up and he had low oil pressure. not REALy low so i let him leave like that. he gets half way home and his lifters start ticking they're *** off. I tell him to buy a new o ring and go install it at hid house. BOOm problem solved. he has super oil pressure now and no ticking.
04-24-2006, 08:37 PM
#38
Originally Posted by jason5
Look at this chart I dont understand why 20 psi is too low at idle, because that is what my oil pressure is at while at idle (hot) hope this chart helps
04-24-2006, 09:03 PM
#39
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I witnessed another person with this tapping and low oil pressure. He was told to do everything you are doing. Check pushrods, check oil pump and on and on....... His started after overhauling the engine. It turns out that he had some oil standing in the main bearing cap boss hole. While installing the main caps this caused a crack in the block at the oil passage hole. The saddle cracked and split cause a loss of oil pressure. It only took him about two weeks of jacking with this problem and some folks that had seen the same thing before to find the problem. Hope this is not your problem.
04-24-2006, 10:28 PM
#40
Originally Posted by jason5
Look at this chart I dont understand why 20 psi is too low at idle, because that is what my oil pressure is at while at idle (hot) hope this chart helps