Cheap head bolts: Read this
Thread Starter
11 Second Club
Joined: Apr 2004
Posts: 113
Likes: 0
From: Oklahoma
Cheap head bolts: Read this So, when i was installing my heads i decided to go with a head bolt kit from Oreilly Auto Parts. This was for two reasons, they were about half the price then the ones from GM, and i got a discount on top of that.
While i was running the bolts down into the block, i noticed a couple get real tight before getting even close to the head. i kept tightening and it "popped" a little and got real easy to turn. I didnt think anything of it, so i tightened them all down in the proper torque sequence, with the proper torque specs.
When i got it all said and done, i started the car. now, i had developed what i believed to be a knock.
So i pulled the motor back out, pulled the oil pan to find 3 small chunks of metal in the pan. I pulled the heads off to find TWO of the head bolts had about 1/4" or so broken off.
I have not yet assesed how much damage it has done.. hopefully not much at all. I just wanted to share my experience with "cheap" head bolts with everyone so they will not do it. Spend the extra money and get it done right.
While i was running the bolts down into the block, i noticed a couple get real tight before getting even close to the head. i kept tightening and it "popped" a little and got real easy to turn. I didnt think anything of it, so i tightened them all down in the proper torque sequence, with the proper torque specs.
When i got it all said and done, i started the car. now, i had developed what i believed to be a knock.
So i pulled the motor back out, pulled the oil pan to find 3 small chunks of metal in the pan. I pulled the heads off to find TWO of the head bolts had about 1/4" or so broken off.
I have not yet assesed how much damage it has done.. hopefully not much at all. I just wanted to share my experience with "cheap" head bolts with everyone so they will not do it. Spend the extra money and get it done right.
TECH Apprentice
Joined: Jan 2002
Posts: 320
Likes: 5
From: Nottingham, Notts, England, UK
Aren't the stock bolts cheap enough? They seem dirt cheap from over here. I'm amazed that somebody's trying to make them cheaper and getting sales!
Were the bolts too long or did you fit the long uns where the shortuns should be?
Boosted.
Were the bolts too long or did you fit the long uns where the shortuns should be?
Boosted.
Thread Starter
11 Second Club
Joined: Apr 2004
Posts: 113
Likes: 0
From: Oklahoma
As far as stock bolts being cheap enough... Probably. But, i'm 20 years old and everything is pretty much a learning experience for me. I saw that i could save $20 so i jumped on it.. Big mistake.
The bolts were the correct length, like i said most of them went in just fine. Just a couple didnt go in right.
The bolts were the correct length, like i said most of them went in just fine. Just a couple didnt go in right.
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Originally Posted by MyCarIsSLow
definitely a possibility. i'm about to start reassembly and i cleaned out the holes good with brake cleaner... im going to wait for it to dry before i put the heads back on.
if they went all the way through, then you broke your block. thats why you found metal in the pan-thats the rest of your block.
all holes are blind (which means not open at the other end)
all holes are blind (which means not open at the other end)
So The Bolts Were Not The Problem Apparently the head bolts were not at fault but rather the assembly procedure was wrong.
It should be OK if you use clean the threads and use Permatex non hardening sealer (I think it is referred to as #2) on the head bolts in those holes. Many engines have "through" holes and require sealer on the head bolts.
It should be OK if you use clean the threads and use Permatex non hardening sealer (I think it is referred to as #2) on the head bolts in those holes. Many engines have "through" holes and require sealer on the head bolts.
well, which two bolts broke? did you get the short bolts in the upper/outer holes?
http://www.ls1howto.com/index.php?article=1
check out this write up and let us know if you followed this or if it points to what you didnt do correctly. if the bolts were the corect length, I dont see how you broke out the bottom unless you hydrauliced it by not cleaning out the holes.
http://www.ls1howto.com/index.php?article=1
check out this write up and let us know if you followed this or if it points to what you didnt do correctly. if the bolts were the corect length, I dont see how you broke out the bottom unless you hydrauliced it by not cleaning out the holes.
Unless as was mentioned if you didn't try using the long bolts in positions 9 and 10 this shouldn't have happened unless you did something wrong. Did you get all of the water out of the bolt holes after removing the heads? Did you remove the large water jacket plugs in the block BEFORE you took the heads off so you would have minimal water in the block when the heads were lifted off? Did you run a thread chaser thru the head bolt holes in the block BEFORE you installed your new heads? I doubt it. You should have read LS1HowTo as has been recommended here BEFORE you started this job. You can make a FREE thread chaser by grinding the side off of one of your old bolts your going to throw away. Don't blame the bolts for this problem. Blame the person turning the wrenches. The bolts very well may have worked if you had gotten all the coolant out of the bolt holes. You might get lucky using this damaged block, but I doubt it will hold up for very long and if the webbing is damaged forget it.
Thread Starter
11 Second Club
Joined: Apr 2004
Posts: 113
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From: Oklahoma
guess i should have posted before doing all this...
i didnt do anything to get water out of the bolt holes.. didnt really cross my mind at the time. also didnt run a thread chaser.
I didnt think about any of this.. so i guess the "cheap" bolts didnt have anything to do with it.
Thanks for all the help guys
Dont be so hard on yourself. Everyone makes mistakes. Just chaulk it up as a learing experience and move on. Like other people said, this time make sure all the fluids are out of the holes and run a thread chaser down all of them.
I would go the stud route with the sealer mentioned above where the through holes are. If it works your set, if not you have a set of studs that you can use on a new block. The only thing your out is time, but its better than forking out for a new block if your not ready to get one.
I would go the stud route with the sealer mentioned above where the through holes are. If it works your set, if not you have a set of studs that you can use on a new block. The only thing your out is time, but its better than forking out for a new block if your not ready to get one.