Cam for a non stalled car???
#1
Cam for a non stalled car???
I am getting suggestions on a cam for my 02 Firehawk A4. I don't Want to put a stall in it because I street race most of the time. I have been looking at some 224/224 112 cams. What kind of cam is good for what I want?? Looking for some suggestions. I will be spraying 125 shot nitrous-at most a 150 shot. Are Lunati cam good or not?? Please help Thanks
#3
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you need a converter, PERIOD. you'll get faster by having the converter and they are about the same price as doing cam,springs, oil pump. i was considering skipping the converter too but a professional has me convinced to do it first. If you like holding your brake with two feet at a red light go ahead, but its gonna surge, pull, and die constantly. but i know a few people that have put up with having a cam and a stock stall and they say it isnt that bad but its alot of work and if you had a converter it would be easier to control.
#6
I am concerned that if I get a stall that I won't be able to hook on the street. My friend got a 3600 vig and he can't hook on the street at all. It is not an advantage to him for street racing. What suspension setup is everyone running with stalls. I want my car to be a street car not a track car. I would get a stall if i knew I could hook it on the street. I have bilstein suspension and I have Lca's and relocation brackets. I am about to buy Mt DR's for a set of 16 inch camaro wheels.
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you don't have to get a 3600 but would'nt go any lower than 3000. and get a stall with a lower str, that'll help you out. i have seen guys gain .5 - 1 second on their times. i have an f14 in my car no tune and stock converter and it doesnt surge or stall. however my car is getting a tune and a 3600 fuddle monday. you have to do things right to get the best results...
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#8
Everyone talks about gaining time at the track. I do 95% of my racing on the street.
The advantage of a converter is comming off of the line harder. Driving on Dr's on the street would help but still not enough.
He has a 3600 with complete suspension work except shocks and runs et streets. He still has traction issues, especially with nitrous.
I have already talked the sponcers about the surging issues and what cam to run without a converter... They recommended the 224... I have hptuners and can tune well so im not really worried about those issues...
An f14 is pretty big... I cant believe thats not having issues with a stock converter... I plan to eventually get a smaller converter but only after I work on the suspension more...
How well are you guys doing on the street with converters? what suspension mods do you have...
The advantage of a converter is comming off of the line harder. Driving on Dr's on the street would help but still not enough.
He has a 3600 with complete suspension work except shocks and runs et streets. He still has traction issues, especially with nitrous.
I have already talked the sponcers about the surging issues and what cam to run without a converter... They recommended the 224... I have hptuners and can tune well so im not really worried about those issues...
An f14 is pretty big... I cant believe thats not having issues with a stock converter... I plan to eventually get a smaller converter but only after I work on the suspension more...
How well are you guys doing on the street with converters? what suspension mods do you have...
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A vig 3600 will actually stall closer to 4000 as Vig rates their converters lower than everybody else. With that amount of stall I can see his problem, especially when he hits it with nitrous because the nitrous will cause the converter to stall closer to 4400. Buy a midrange stall in the neighborhood of 3000 to 3400. Put a set of Nittos on the rear and you should be good to go. I cut 1.5 60' times with my pig heavy daily driver on ET Streets and have no problem hooking on the street with Nittos. I'm using a Vig 3200. You may have to learn to drive into the converter which is simply using less than full throttle when you launch then feeding in the rest of the gas over the next couple of seconds. With a decent converter you will be much more able to take advantage of a bigger cam later.
#10
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Originally Posted by bluehawk2
Everyone talks about gaining time at the track. I do 95% of my racing on the street.
The advantage of a converter is comming off of the line harder. Driving on Dr's on the street would help but still not enough.
He has a 3600 with complete suspension work except shocks and runs et streets. He still has traction issues, especially with nitrous.
I have already talked the sponcers about the surging issues and what cam to run without a converter... They recommended the 224... I have hptuners and can tune well so im not really worried about those issues...
An f14 is pretty big... I cant believe thats not having issues with a stock converter... I plan to eventually get a smaller converter but only after I work on the suspension more...
How well are you guys doing on the street with converters? what suspension mods do you have...
The advantage of a converter is comming off of the line harder. Driving on Dr's on the street would help but still not enough.
He has a 3600 with complete suspension work except shocks and runs et streets. He still has traction issues, especially with nitrous.
I have already talked the sponcers about the surging issues and what cam to run without a converter... They recommended the 224... I have hptuners and can tune well so im not really worried about those issues...
An f14 is pretty big... I cant believe thats not having issues with a stock converter... I plan to eventually get a smaller converter but only after I work on the suspension more...
How well are you guys doing on the street with converters? what suspension mods do you have...
as for cams i dont think you'll go wrong with a 224/224 just do as much research as you can before buying one
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Originally Posted by bluehawk2
Everyone talks about gaining time at the track. I do 95% of my racing on the street.
The advantage of a converter is comming off of the line harder. Driving on Dr's on the street would help but still not enough.
He has a 3600 with complete suspension work except shocks and runs et streets. He still has traction issues, especially with nitrous.
I have already talked the sponcers about the surging issues and what cam to run without a converter... They recommended the 224... I have hptuners and can tune well so im not really worried about those issues...
An f14 is pretty big... I cant believe thats not having issues with a stock converter... I plan to eventually get a smaller converter but only after I work on the suspension more...
How well are you guys doing on the street with converters? what suspension mods do you have...
The advantage of a converter is comming off of the line harder. Driving on Dr's on the street would help but still not enough.
He has a 3600 with complete suspension work except shocks and runs et streets. He still has traction issues, especially with nitrous.
I have already talked the sponcers about the surging issues and what cam to run without a converter... They recommended the 224... I have hptuners and can tune well so im not really worried about those issues...
An f14 is pretty big... I cant believe thats not having issues with a stock converter... I plan to eventually get a smaller converter but only after I work on the suspension more...
How well are you guys doing on the street with converters? what suspension mods do you have...
#12
So the 3600 vig is just too much for the street. I do most racing from stop not at a roll. Will a stall help any up top. I can nornally offset the slow launches by spraying as soon as i hit 3000, however I would like to have a little more power from the middle of second gear on. Thanks for all the help. I am trying to figure out which direction I would like to go in right now. I would like to get a stall, but i don't want any more traction issues than I have now. Thanks
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I suggest that you go to the automatic transmission forum and start reading every thread you can find about converters. After reading a few dozen treads you will convince yourself. My car is setup primarily for street racing using two stages of nitrous. That is why I use a smaller, Vig3200, converter. I hook great on the street using just Nitto drag radials. I use the Nittos because it is a daily driver type of car and I usually get about 14,000 miles out of a pair. It sure beats the 2,000 or so you would normally get out of a pair of ET Streets. Don't be afraid of a converter. It is the best friend an automatic transmissioned car can have. Find somebody who has a midrange converter in their car and go for a ride with them. I took a forum member, I forget his screen name, for a ride Saturday night and he was amazed that with the horsepower I have that I hook better on the street than he can in his stock Firebird. Hopefully he will read this thread and give you his opinion.
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Gold Z took me for the ride Saturday night. As he stated, he has a 3200 Vig. I DEFINITELY had reservations about a converter until I rode in his car. It drives down the street just as friendly as my stock Formula until he pushes the gas and then it is amazing. He was on Nitto's and there was basically no tire spin from a dead stop on cold pavement and he has a very powerful car, so traction issues shouldnt be a problem with upgraded tires on your application. In fact, we even discussed the fact that on a stock stall I spin MUCH worse than his built car with a stall. Bluehawk, I was definitely going for the cam before the stall when I first got my LS1 but have since been 100% converted to getting the converter first. My friend recently put a cam in his '05 5.3 chevy with no converter and the bottom end power will make you sick since a stock cammed truck will blow it away on the takeoff. Do yourself a favor and get the converter first if you are really interested in being fast, not just in sounding good.
Last edited by brady346; 04-25-2006 at 10:11 AM.
#17
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That's a fair amount of overlap to have idle at 700 rpm. A 224/224 112 is 0 overlap at .05. I'd suggest you cut the overlap 4 - 6 degrees for less than a 750 rpm idle.
I'm assuming you have headers just not a stall. Call Geoff at ThuderRacing and get this:
216/220 112 111. For the 216 lobe use their intake lobe on their Cheater Cam. For the exhaust use an XE-R lobe. Put on a good set of valve springs. This cam will give you decent power from 3000 - 6000 and be ok with a 125 shot.
Another option would be a 216/224 113 112. This will be a little more nitrous friendly to a 150 shot.
I'm assuming you have headers just not a stall. Call Geoff at ThuderRacing and get this:
216/220 112 111. For the 216 lobe use their intake lobe on their Cheater Cam. For the exhaust use an XE-R lobe. Put on a good set of valve springs. This cam will give you decent power from 3000 - 6000 and be ok with a 125 shot.
Another option would be a 216/224 113 112. This will be a little more nitrous friendly to a 150 shot.
#18
I have the VHP 210/218 at .551 and it idles well just a light chop to it. Tuned it puts down 331hp/328trq at the rear wheels. And it turned a 12.85 last Sunday at the track. I think this might be a good choice for you the specs on it said stall desired but not required.
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I have the 3600 vig in my car... Its a multi disc so it made not to flash from nitrous use. its also much more mild than a standard single disc converter... However I have not had a cam in my car so its really torquey... With et streets i have 0 traction.. Using hp tuners for throttle position i spin at around 40% throttle thats with heating them up as well... Anyway... Im in the process of putting an f13 cam in my car so i suppose ill know how it feels down low them... I assume It wont come off the line as hard as it does now... I was forgetting that you lose low end with a cam...
Once I get my car together with the cam ill let him take it for a ride and see how he likes it..
Once I get my car together with the cam ill let him take it for a ride and see how he likes it..