Oil Pressure 11-15 PSI at idle.. HELP! I'm Scared
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I recently installed a 347 from forcefed high performance. Diamond 2cc pistons callies h beam rods. with a magic stick cam. Im also running a LS6 ported oil pump from Texas Speed. When we first started the car up until about 750 miles or so on the motor i never noticed the oil pressure low it was always at a constant 28-30psi at idle. However today i realize that when i am driving aroudn town at operating or above oberating temps the car cruises around 28-33 psi and as soon as i pull it out of gear and it begins to idle oil presure drops to 22 then slowly drops back to 15 and it will flucuate between 11-15psi.
I'm also running mobil 1 10w-30 oil in the car. If anyone has any ideas please let me know. The oil pressure sending unit is brand new along with every other part in the motor. Any help would be appreciate im scared that my new motor is not goin to last much longer.
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Check the o-ring before you do anything as far as tearing the motor apart.
I've heard many times that if oil pressure slowly diminishes as engine temps climb to normal, more than likely the o-ring is not in there right.
I'd spend the $4, drop the pan and replace it and then see what it does.
I've heard many times that if oil pressure slowly diminishes as engine temps climb to normal, more than likely the o-ring is not in there right.
I'd spend the $4, drop the pan and replace it and then see what it does.
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def. check the o-ring. I reused my old one and had same oil pressure. Make sure its new and you can use a little bit of silicone to hold it in place to prevent it moving around. Thats what i did. I have 50 warm idle now.
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my stock oil pump with mobil 1 5-40 ran around 42psi idle hot and when i am goin ***** out about 70psi hot. now with my ported ls6 pump w/ amsoil 0-30 i'm runnin 35 at hot idle and 50 when im all out. i know the o-ring is in there good and on correctly since i did it myself
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we got the engine back a week or so ago and torn down; there was evidence of metal going through the engine, all of the bearings are scored and crank has some minor scoring on the main and rod journals. NO bearings spun and crank cleaned up with a mild re-polish, the problem is due to cam walk. There is major scoring on the front of the cam retainer plate and the back of the cam timing gear, there is also some scuff marks on the cam side of the retainer plate, but it appears that the cam walked towards the rear and allowed the timing gear to sit against the retainer plate.
We sold this as a shortblock and did not install any of these parts, plus the engine changed hands and a cam bearing was changed
after we sold it, so from where I sit this is in no way a warranty issue:
however since damage was minor, we are replacing the bearings and re-polishing the crank at no-charge.
I have attached some pics for those who may be interested in seeing them. In the first picture (circled) you can see a 3/4 inch long sliver that is about .005 thick that is almost separated and would probably ended up in the bearings as well
We sold this as a shortblock and did not install any of these parts, plus the engine changed hands and a cam bearing was changed
![Icon Confused](https://ls1tech.com/forums/images/smilies2/icon_confused.gif)
however since damage was minor, we are replacing the bearings and re-polishing the crank at no-charge.
I have attached some pics for those who may be interested in seeing them. In the first picture (circled) you can see a 3/4 inch long sliver that is about .005 thick that is almost separated and would probably ended up in the bearings as well
Last edited by Demon SS; 06-23-2006 at 12:36 PM.
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Originally Posted by Demon SS
we got the engine back a week or so ago and torn down; there was evidence of metal going through the engine, all of the bearings are scored and crank has some minor scoring on the main and rod journals. NO bearings spun and crank cleaned up with a mild re-polish, the problem is due to cam walk. There is major scoring on the front of the cam retainer plate and the back of the cam timing gear, there is also some scuff marks on the cam side of the retainer plate, but it appears that the cam walked towards the rear and allowed the timing gear to sit against the retainer plate.
We sold this as a shortblock and did not install any of these parts, plus the engine changed hands after we sold it, so from where I sit this is in no way a warranty issue:
however since damage was minor, we are replacing the bearings and re-polishing the crank at no-charge.
I have attached some pics for those who may be interested in seeing them.
We sold this as a shortblock and did not install any of these parts, plus the engine changed hands after we sold it, so from where I sit this is in no way a warranty issue:
however since damage was minor, we are replacing the bearings and re-polishing the crank at no-charge.
I have attached some pics for those who may be interested in seeing them.
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Originally Posted by Demon SS
we got the engine back a week or so ago and torn down; there was evidence of metal going through the engine, all of the bearings are scored and crank has some minor scoring on the main and rod journals. NO bearings spun and crank cleaned up with a mild re-polish, the problem is due to cam walk. There is major scoring on the front of the cam retainer plate and the back of the cam timing gear, there is also some scuff marks on the cam side of the retainer plate, but it appears that the cam walked towards the rear and allowed the timing gear to sit against the retainer plate.
We sold this as a shortblock and did not install any of these parts, plus the engine changed hands and a cam bearing was changed
after we sold it, so from where I sit this is in no way a warranty issue:
however since damage was minor, we are replacing the bearings and re-polishing the crank at no-charge.
I have attached some pics for those who may be interested in seeing them. In the first picture (circled) you can see a 3/4 inch long sliver that is about .005 thick that is almost separated and would probably ended up in the bearings as well
We sold this as a shortblock and did not install any of these parts, plus the engine changed hands and a cam bearing was changed
![Icon Confused](https://ls1tech.com/forums/images/smilies2/icon_confused.gif)
however since damage was minor, we are replacing the bearings and re-polishing the crank at no-charge.
I have attached some pics for those who may be interested in seeing them. In the first picture (circled) you can see a 3/4 inch long sliver that is about .005 thick that is almost separated and would probably ended up in the bearings as well
Holy crap, I had the exact same scouring on my retainer plate and cam sprocket when I tore my motor down. What cam was in this car? And what can cause the cam to walk like this?
Nevermind I see it had the magic stick.
back to my original question of what can cause cam walk like this?
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at first appearance it seemed to be cam walk, we spec'd the cam and found no problems there, so we got to scratching our heads and doing some research, looks like this may be a design flaw of some sort; the folks at Vinci address the problem here
http://www.vincihighperformance.com/...20PAGE%20.HTML
(scroll down the page some)
http://www.vincihighperformance.com/...20PAGE%20.HTML
(scroll down the page some)
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Originally Posted by Demon SS
at first appearance it seemed to be cam walk, we spec'd the cam and found no problems there, so we got to scratching our heads and doing some research, looks like this may be a design flaw of some sort; the folks at Vinci address the problem here
http://www.vincihighperformance.com/...20PAGE%20.HTML
(scroll down the page some)
http://www.vincihighperformance.com/...20PAGE%20.HTML
(scroll down the page some)
I hate to tear it apart to do this again, oh well. I did notice that the retainer plate and cam sprocket that I purchased from a dealer looked much different than my previous one.
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Originally Posted by ShevrolayZ28
Is there a chance that the cam bearing race was installed wrong and as a result allowed the cam to walk? On a properly installed cam bearing race, are any of them tapered toward the front of the motor?
Anymore info for this thread?
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