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cam+break in=?oil?

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Old 06-11-2006 | 07:42 AM
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Default cam+break in=?oil?

I heard not to run synthetic on a cam break in, is this true, and why.
I searched and still couldnt find anthing, thanks.
Old 06-11-2006 | 10:09 AM
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For a flat tappet cam, that's correct. For a roller like the LS1's have, it doesn't make any difference. When I install mine, I'll drain the old oil out after installation and run some regular dino oil for a couple of hundred miles to flush the contaminants out of the system. Then I'll drain it and run a premium synthetic for a long and (hopefully) happy life.
Old 06-11-2006 | 10:28 AM
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After my cam swap my installer used Mobil 1 and I have since had a noticeable tick.....could this be from the syn. oil?
Old 06-11-2006 | 10:30 AM
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I put in generic oil for break in ONLY because I knew I'd be draining it after 250 miles. Why put in expensive german castrol when its just going to be dumped soon..

You can however use synthetic, but if you use m1 5w30 or rp 5w30 I'll come back to this thread and haunt you.

Good luck w/ the break in.
Old 06-11-2006 | 10:31 AM
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Originally Posted by hurley711
After my cam swap my installer used Mobil 1 and I have since had a noticeable tick.....could this be from the syn. oil?
Tick probably isn't from your oil? It might be.. but Mobil 1 is thin for its grade. After my h/c swap my heads sound pretty loud - but if it bugs you have someone check it out.
Old 06-11-2006 | 10:49 AM
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If you can find it, the Mobil1 0w40 is supposed to be good.
For the definitive answer, go here...http://bobistheoilguy.com/
Old 06-11-2006 | 10:52 AM
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There is no break-in needed for a hydraulic roller camshaft in these cars. Lube it up real good with whatever oil and throw it in and go about your way. I've done swaps putting in dino oil and synthetic oil... none have ever had any issues.
Old 06-11-2006 | 12:33 PM
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As stated above, you don't need any special oil to break in a roller cam.
I do advise you to soak the rollers on the roller lifters in gear oil before you put it together. Many of the oil companies have removed the zinc from their oil, and that has caused a few needle bearing problems.

As for the person with the ticking noise, if the oil is too thin, it can cause a ticking noise.
On any hydraulic lifter, you've got the oil pressure from the oil going into the lifter as it passes the oil galley trying to pump the lifter up, and you've got the pressure from the valve spring trying to collapse the lifter back down.
The thinner the oil, and/or the less oil pressure you have, the easier it is for the lifter to collapse. If the lifter collapses just a little bit it will cause a ticking noise.
Old 06-11-2006 | 01:01 PM
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Originally Posted by CamKing
As stated above, you don't need any special oil to break in a roller cam.
I do advise you to soak the rollers on the roller lifters in gear oil before you put it together. Many of the oil companies have removed the zinc from their oil, and that has caused a few needle bearing problems.

As for the person with the ticking noise, if the oil is too thin, it can cause a ticking noise.
On any hydraulic lifter, you've got the oil pressure from the oil going into the lifter as it passes the oil galley trying to pump the lifter up, and you've got the pressure from the valve spring trying to collapse the lifter back down.
The thinner the oil, and/or the less oil pressure you have, the easier it is for the lifter to collapse. If the lifter collapses just a little bit it will cause a ticking noise.

What weight synthetic would you recommend>?
Old 06-11-2006 | 02:16 PM
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Originally Posted by hurley711
What weight synthetic would you recommend>?
40+
In racing classes that we have to use hydraulic lifters, we use W50.




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