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ARP Studs/Bolts & Cylinder Warping…

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Old 08-03-2006, 06:13 PM
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Default ARP Studs/Bolts & Cylinder Warping…

What is the actual risk factor involved when using ARP head studs or bolts without align honing the cylinders?

Any chance of warping the cylinders?
Old 08-03-2006, 06:41 PM
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Supposedly, with studs you will see a little difference with distortion, with bolts, as long as they are to spec, I haven't seen any huge variation. Maybe an expert can chime in who has used a dial bore gauage on a deckplate or something to check this...
Old 08-03-2006, 06:52 PM
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Originally Posted by jermstyle
What is the actual risk factor involved when using ARP head studs or bolts without align honing the cylinders?

Any chance of warping the cylinders?
I think you may be confusing "align honing" the mains when changing to main studs, as compared to using head studs.

Old small block Chevys had the head bolt holes so close to the cylinder wall that "torque plate honing" was required, due to the studs deforming the cylinder wall next to the stud.

LS1 engines don't really require "torque plate honing" due to the bolts being so far away from the cylinder wall.

So to answer your question, you will not have a problem if you decide to use head studs.
Old 08-03-2006, 06:57 PM
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Brian, that is true, but the fact that it is in fact pulling on aluminum, wouldn't that distort that relatively thin cast sleeve?
Old 08-03-2006, 06:59 PM
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I've always read that using a torque plate when honing is a must w/ the aluminum LSX engines.
Old 08-03-2006, 07:09 PM
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I have heard that also, because the ones from the factory are out of round, some more than others, and that is really where piston "slap" comes from apparently. I don't know because the machine/speed shop I worked in, we never ran across LS1's at the time...
Old 08-03-2006, 09:37 PM
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So, we are still pretty undecided. Anyone else have something to add?

My engine doesn't currently have any 'piston slap' issues and I'd rather not give it some. I see a lot of people using ARP studs though.
Old 08-03-2006, 09:49 PM
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I believe people have their blocks machined at the same time they install the studs though, and you only have to install the studs once, heads/mains, so... It would make sense on a new build to install studs and have it machined, better safe than sorry! If you can get a set of studs, torque them down, and check with a dial bore gauge, you will see if it is distorted or out of round. I really wish I could help you more bud, I just put my studs in tonight, to find that the set I bought (new) are missing 5 nuts!!! GRRRR >=| Good luck bud.
Old 08-03-2006, 10:03 PM
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Personally I don't know. However, I'd go with what someone who actually does this stuff for a living says, not just someone that's like well I read so and so here.
Old 08-03-2006, 10:35 PM
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Originally Posted by Brian Tooley
I think you may be confusing "align honing" the mains when changing to main studs, as compared to using head studs.

LS1 engines don't really require "torque plate honing" due to the bolts being so far away from the cylinder wall.

So to answer your question, you will not have a problem if you decide to use head studs.
I'm going to go with this answer....since I believe he knows what he's talking about, no offense to anyone else offering opinions.
Old 08-03-2006, 11:19 PM
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Yea, I do think Brian would know. But all are valid opinions.

I will probably go with the studs because I'm sure I will have the heads off again for something.

Thanks!
Old 08-04-2006, 08:46 AM
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Studs or bolts will still be putting the same or atleast similar loads on the block. I dont think youll have any problems switching over. As far as real world results, ive never heard of anyone having a warped block problem from using non-stock bolts.




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