15000 to Spend
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15000 to Spend I have 15000 to spend on a 2000 ls1 camaro. I'd like to spend it all on power adders ans supporting mods. It will most likely end up being a daily driver. I need some ideas on what to get.
im just finishing up a front mount turbo, cost me 10,000 for teh turbo setup, fueling, gauges, cam and heads. with 15,000 it should give u enough for teh turbo and rearend and run 11s and keep teh car nice a quiet
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From: Bergen County, NJ
Originally Posted by mr2guru
LS7 crate, headers, LG cam..... electronics to support it.
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afr heads, cam kit and headers installed, about 4500
12 bolt rear installed lets say 3k
stall converter installed about 1k
other minor bolt ons about another1k.
with the 5k left, put it in the bank.
dont **** it all away on car mods.
soon enough because of youre new found power, youll be breaking **** and will be needing that cash in the bank.
12 bolt rear installed lets say 3k
stall converter installed about 1k
other minor bolt ons about another1k.
with the 5k left, put it in the bank.
dont **** it all away on car mods.
soon enough because of youre new found power, youll be breaking **** and will be needing that cash in the bank.
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The more you mod the car for speed, the less practical it becomes to use as a daily driver.
No offense to guys who have done this (your $$, your choice), but if you drop $15g into your Z28, you might end up with a car someone would pay $20g for when you get tired of it. You'll also end up with nothing should someone t-bone you or if you wrap the car around a tree because insurance typically won't pay for speed mods.
If you want to add some speed, do the cam/headers/exhaust thing, and maybe a 12 bolt or 9in. for reliability if you beat on it. Take the remaining $10g and buy a car you can drive in the rain, snow, whatever, park next to anything, gets 30mpg, and will get you to work with no worries. THEN, maybe continue modding your Z28. Trust me, you DON'T want to have the car you mod be the car you need to get to work with.
No offense to guys who have done this (your $$, your choice), but if you drop $15g into your Z28, you might end up with a car someone would pay $20g for when you get tired of it. You'll also end up with nothing should someone t-bone you or if you wrap the car around a tree because insurance typically won't pay for speed mods.
If you want to add some speed, do the cam/headers/exhaust thing, and maybe a 12 bolt or 9in. for reliability if you beat on it. Take the remaining $10g and buy a car you can drive in the rain, snow, whatever, park next to anything, gets 30mpg, and will get you to work with no worries. THEN, maybe continue modding your Z28. Trust me, you DON'T want to have the car you mod be the car you need to get to work with.
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Originally Posted by chimazo
The more you mod the car for speed, the less practical it becomes to use as a daily driver.
No offense to guys who have done this (your $$, your choice), but if you drop $15g into your Z28, you might end up with a car someone would pay $20g for when you get tired of it. You'll also end up with nothing should someone t-bone you or if you wrap the car around a tree because insurance typically won't pay for speed mods.
If you want to add some speed, do the cam/headers/exhaust thing, and maybe a 12 bolt or 9in. for reliability if you beat on it. Take the remaining $10g and buy a car you can drive in the rain, snow, whatever, park next to anything, gets 30mpg, and will get you to work with no worries. THEN, maybe continue modding your Z28. Trust me, you DON'T want to have the car you mod be the car you need to get to work with.
No offense to guys who have done this (your $$, your choice), but if you drop $15g into your Z28, you might end up with a car someone would pay $20g for when you get tired of it. You'll also end up with nothing should someone t-bone you or if you wrap the car around a tree because insurance typically won't pay for speed mods.
If you want to add some speed, do the cam/headers/exhaust thing, and maybe a 12 bolt or 9in. for reliability if you beat on it. Take the remaining $10g and buy a car you can drive in the rain, snow, whatever, park next to anything, gets 30mpg, and will get you to work with no worries. THEN, maybe continue modding your Z28. Trust me, you DON'T want to have the car you mod be the car you need to get to work with.
get a 10k 1/2 ton truck and then put 5k into your car, bolt ons and a 12 bolt and a cam. this will let you have a truck to tow the car wherever you want and not have to worry about breaking the car at the track and stradded there and also you can drive the truck to work and back.
I think you are a fool if you do not research the entire turbocharging process and just throw money at people to do it for you. There is so much info on every aspect of building a motor, supporting mods, fuel system, gearing, building a rear end, a transmission, setting up the suspension, intercooling, upgrading turbos, tuning, fixing things that break, etc, etc etc. You can't expect to get the info you need to build a properly built turbo car from one post. Many of the best turbo builds I have seen on this site come from guys who have more than $15,000 to spend up front yet it still takes them up to 2 years to complete. If you can't build it, tear it down and fab it up yourself and need the car everyday, don't turbo it. If you still are set in your mind that you have to go this way, I would budget aside $10,000 for the turbo and all accessories for the kit, $3000 for the fuel system, $5000 to build the motor, $2000 for the rearend, $2000 for the transmission, then another $2000 for various odds and ends. Set aside a year or so for the build.
That being said, you can have a perfectly streetable, insanely fast car by building a 408 with some AFR 225s, Vic Jr, good DD/nitrous cam, strong internals and a direct port 300 shot. Then you need a 12 bolt or 9in, then a TH400, then full suspension mods, then a cage. Read around on here, there are so many options for you.
That being said, you can have a perfectly streetable, insanely fast car by building a 408 with some AFR 225s, Vic Jr, good DD/nitrous cam, strong internals and a direct port 300 shot. Then you need a 12 bolt or 9in, then a TH400, then full suspension mods, then a cage. Read around on here, there are so many options for you.
If I had the cash to blow, I'd invest it in a nice blown 402 ls2 from either W2W or Katech and have it put out as close to 600 hp/tq as possible and slap in some 3.42 gears in a 8.8" rear. Nice, efficient, mild (stress wise) fun car to drive on the street. You'd probably only need about 6-10psi to reach those goals which would help to extend the life of the car.
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From: NC, Charlotte / SC, RockHill
u can get a 370ci long block for under 5500$ from mizfitmotorsports + single turbo t-88 which well cost about 7000-8500$ + the fuel system.....
with this cash u r able to build a monster but make sure to spend ur money right.
with this cash u r able to build a monster but make sure to spend ur money right.
The more you mod your car, the more that will break. Its the price we pay to go fast. Because its your DD, sooner or later you are gonna wanna go fast. THats when **** happens. Not to mention, if you are going to do the labor yourself, you are gonna need time. You need another car. I have been doing my H/C swap for weeks now. Wanted to take my time, do it right.
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From: Long Island NY Portsmouth NH Sometimes CT
i spent about the same as you and went with a blown ls6...i already had the blower on my stock motor so i upgraded it...got afr heads, forged internals, spec 5 clutch...k member lcas few other suspension parts and like previousley stated 6-10 # is good...i use about 10-12 # and i hit 617/595 rwhp 1st/2nd dyno and 525 tq roughly....u could always do NA ls2 as well...and along with what a few others said...save some money...my motor was built conservatively...good luck with your decision...
To everyone who says "turbo it" it cannot be done the right way for that price. You have to build the motor, get the kit and turbo, get the fuel system, very good tune, the rear, the tranny, several more trips to the tuner, the suspension and then fix the $5000 in parts you break in the first 6 months driving it then get it retuned. Even then, it will take quite a bit of tweaking and practicing to be as fast as you would be with a built 346 and a 300 shot of N20 for close to 1/2 the price.
