anyone got a 228/232 110 +2
08-29-2006, 05:44 PM
#41
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Originally Posted by bad6as
if the cam is a 110+1 it has a 109 icl
it gets installed dot to dot?
it gets installed dot to dot?
08-29-2006, 08:02 PM
#44
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Originally Posted by bad6as
i pluged that cam with the lsk lobes and xer lobes and the dcr was a 9.1 i think that ok for 93 oct?
and lsk are worth about 10hp and 10tq over xer correct?
and lsk are worth about 10hp and 10tq over xer correct?
I'm not positive on this, but I think a 9.1:1 DCR is going to be tougher to run with pump gas. I've heard 8.8 DCR and less for pump gas motors.
08-29-2006, 09:43 PM
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Originally Posted by BOWTIE
So it was dyno'd through the cats... I wonder how much that impacted the numbers. Other than the LG's what is the rest of your exhaust set up. It would be interesting to see if you would pick up some HP with cutouts and how much if so.
Also, the exhaust came first, then the 4:10's, headers and now the cam. Wasn't sure I wanted to open the motor up at first and the gears gave it a nice SOTP improvement.
08-31-2006, 01:03 AM
#48
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Originally Posted by JZ'sTA
Or you can have it cam doctored after it is ground for a little more insurance how the cam turned out.
08-31-2006, 12:26 PM
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So just so I have this straight, the dot to dot method does not ensure the cam is installed to the advance ground in the cam? This can only be done with an adj timing chain? How can people install dot to dot if this is true? So my cam is probably just at like -2 instead of +2? I just dont understand how that happens. Sorry I am ignorant on this one. Thanks for the help
08-31-2006, 12:50 PM
#51
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yes, i believe that lining it up dot to dot, it can be off by as much as 4*, an adjustable timing set is required to find out if, and how much, you are off, and to correct it.
your cam might be dead on where it should be, but it is probably off alittle.
for most people installing it dot to dot is good enough, it gets the car running, and they are not concerned if it is making every bit of the power that it should.
your cam might be dead on where it should be, but it is probably off alittle.
for most people installing it dot to dot is good enough, it gets the car running, and they are not concerned if it is making every bit of the power that it should.
09-01-2006, 10:23 AM
#55
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Originally Posted by Marc '99T/A
Is there a writeup on exactly how to degree the cam you're installing?
09-01-2006, 11:57 AM
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And if you don't have a degreeing wheel? Aren't they like $100 or something. I just don't want to screw up my motor trying to degree the cam when it works perfectly fine right now. thanks
09-01-2006, 12:50 PM
#57
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Degreeing a Camshaft okls1, i believe that they range from $100-150, i also need to get myself one.
i was just reading the cam sticky on the top of this forum (for the first time), its quite helpful... even tells you how to degree a cam...
https://ls1tech.com/forums/showpost....2&postcount=10
i was just reading the cam sticky on the top of this forum (for the first time), its quite helpful... even tells you how to degree a cam...
https://ls1tech.com/forums/showpost....2&postcount=10
09-01-2006, 02:48 PM
#58
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Ya Ive read that many times when I was looking for my cam. I read the degreeing section once or twice, but just suck to spend another $300+ (adj timing, wheel) and then tear down motor to change this. And I know a guy that had an adj timing set and blew the motor cus of it. 
But if I can pick up 20rwtq that might be worth it. 
But if I can pick up 20rwtq that might be worth it.
09-01-2006, 04:19 PM
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so is this cam like the best to go with for a more agressive street car that makes great hp and tq and you dont have to rev it out that much with a baddasss lope
09-01-2006, 05:24 PM
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Originally Posted by Brianss1
Ok so I have my mustang dyno sheet in front of me and it reads 393.60 rwhp at 6200rpm and 352.02 tq at 5000rpm .I have been told by most everyone you can had 10-15% for using a dynojet dnyo.I used 10% and it comes out to 432.96 rwhp and 387.22 tq. Correct if I am wrong.I could use 15 % but that would be more 