car wont start
car wont start so i got my engine back in my car ( got refreshed) and finished bolting everything back on and it wont start.. it cranks you can see the crank turning. At first i thought it might of been my boosta pump fuse,. checked it looked fine. since gas is coming out from the fuel rails when i checked it, that makes me believe that its not the pump.. switched the coil packs (just in case i put them wrong) nothing happenes the cranks spins but doesnt start. its like if its missing spark somewhere.. any suggestions on what it might be?
Originally Posted by DaddySS
Grounds on the back of the heads are tight, PCM fuse is good?
ground in the back are tight.. going to double check again tomorrow, pcm fuse.. hhmm.. where exactly is this one at? all my guages and everything seems to work but donno??
TECH Addict
Joined: Dec 2001
Posts: 2,907
Likes: 1
From: Bergen County, NJ
Originally Posted by pewter 01 SS
ground in the back are tight.. going to double check again tomorrow, pcm fuse.. hhmm.. where exactly is this one at? all my guages and everything seems to work but donno??
Originally Posted by 67Firebird455
Ya know, I had the EXACT same thing happen, but it ended up being fouled plugs... ALL of them, surprising enough.
I PUT BRANK NEW NGK'S SO NOT SURE...
Originally Posted by DaddySS
Fuse is in the forward panel on the left front fender - rear row of fuses in the middel - it will say it on the fuse box lid, should be labeled PCM/IGN.
ILL CHECK THAT OUT.. IF THE CAR CRANKS AND GUAGES WORK DOESNT THAT MEAN THAT THE FUSES WORK..
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yeah, if you put new plugs in, something isn't adding up correctly. I was told to check the grounding straps also, mine were fine. Check the PCM/IGN fuse, surely has to be blown.
TECH Addict
Joined: Dec 2001
Posts: 2,907
Likes: 1
From: Bergen County, NJ
Originally Posted by pewter 01 SS
ILL CHECK THAT OUT.. IF THE CAR CRANKS AND GUAGES WORK DOESNT THAT MEAN THAT THE FUSES WORK..
ok guys. rechecked all my grounds, replaced IGN relay in fron fuse box and seperated my grounds on the back of the head because all three where together and still nothing.. at 1st the spark looked kinda weak but since i split them to two wires on one bolt and one on another the spark got better. Now the last two things that i was told might be is the crank sensor because it might through the timing off if messed up ( and the car does seems like timing is off) or the i believe its called crank sproket or some kind of ring in the back (forgot what its called)?? supposively its in the back of the crank and can easily get fucked up when transporting the block.. also scanned the pcm with a machine from auto zone and no codes come up.. the car backfires sometimes but changed the coils around and still nothing, the car just turns but does not turn on... any ideas guys?? the last thing im going to do is purchase a new crank sensor and hope thats it.
Last edited by pewter 01 SS; Sep 10, 2006 at 11:29 AM.
Update.. Replaced The Crank Sensor And Nothing New Happends.. Same Thing Just Cranks Over But Doesnt Fire. Suggestions? Im going to replace the cam sensor since i bought it already, do you have to do something to the pcm when installing a new crank sensor? no re-learn process or anything like that?
What about Fuel Pressure ? Gas just coming out of the rail my be residue left over from the take down. Put a gauge on the fuel rail valve to check and make sure you are getting enough pressure or any at all !
I had mine apart for 8 months and when I started to put it together, I still had gas in the rail !
Maybe check the other sensor again, (CAM, IAT, MAF, MAP,etc). What else do you losen, remove, set aside ?
I had mine apart for 8 months and when I started to put it together, I still had gas in the rail !
Maybe check the other sensor again, (CAM, IAT, MAF, MAP,etc). What else do you losen, remove, set aside ?
Originally Posted by bczee
What about Fuel Pressure ? Gas just coming out of the rail my be residue left over from the take down. Put a gauge on the fuel rail valve to check and make sure you are getting enough pressure or any at all !
I had mine apart for 8 months and when I started to put it together, I still had gas in the rail !
Maybe check the other sensor again, (CAM, IAT, MAF, MAP,etc). What else do you losen, remove, set aside ?
I had mine apart for 8 months and when I started to put it together, I still had gas in the rail !
Maybe check the other sensor again, (CAM, IAT, MAF, MAP,etc). What else do you losen, remove, set aside ?
my car was apart for about 5 months.. i did take off my fpss and checked if fuel came out so i thought that would tell me if came out. going to try it with my fuel pressure gauge. im going to replace my cam sensor just for ***** and giggles, im not running maf i was sd tune when motor froze because of spun bearing, but ill try connecting it next time i start the car.. my map has always been in the intake but ill double check them again..
Got your PM. If the crank reluctor is from the same model year, it should be ok. Fuel, spark, crank, cam can be confirmed @ the PCM. Get a pin out sheet for your model year PCM & have a look. Can also check spark by pulling a plug wire & cranking (might crack a plug). I don't know what to say about having no MAF. Are you using an after market PCM?
If she cranks & won't start, there's most likely a spark or fuel issue. If the PCM is getting power (confirmed by that fact that you can connect to it through the OBDII port), then it's likely an external electrical issue. Check fuel pressure once fuel pump relay & fuse power have been confirmed. Quadrouple check your grounds or that no in-line fuses were added somewhere that could be adding to the problem.
I have also gone through this **** for four months & know how frustrating it can be. Mine turned out to be a wiring issue related to combining Mazda & GM wiring. Bottom line was no fuel or spark.
If she cranks & won't start, there's most likely a spark or fuel issue. If the PCM is getting power (confirmed by that fact that you can connect to it through the OBDII port), then it's likely an external electrical issue. Check fuel pressure once fuel pump relay & fuse power have been confirmed. Quadrouple check your grounds or that no in-line fuses were added somewhere that could be adding to the problem.
I have also gone through this **** for four months & know how frustrating it can be. Mine turned out to be a wiring issue related to combining Mazda & GM wiring. Bottom line was no fuel or spark.
Originally Posted by LS1-450
Got your PM. If the crank reluctor is from the same model year, it should be ok. Fuel, spark, crank, cam can be confirmed @ the PCM. Get a pin out sheet for your model year PCM & have a look. Can also check spark by pulling a plug wire & cranking (might crack a plug). I don't know what to say about having no MAF. Are you using an after market PCM?
If she cranks & won't start, there's most likely a spark or fuel issue. If the PCM is getting power (confirmed by that fact that you can connect to it through the OBDII port), then it's likely an external electrical issue. Check fuel pressure once fuel pump relay & fuse power have been confirmed. Quadrouple check your grounds or that no in-line fuses were added somewhere that could be adding to the problem.
I have also gone through this **** for four months & know how frustrating it can be. Mine turned out to be a wiring issue related to combining Mazda & GM wiring. Bottom line was no fuel or spark.
If she cranks & won't start, there's most likely a spark or fuel issue. If the PCM is getting power (confirmed by that fact that you can connect to it through the OBDII port), then it's likely an external electrical issue. Check fuel pressure once fuel pump relay & fuse power have been confirmed. Quadrouple check your grounds or that no in-line fuses were added somewhere that could be adding to the problem.
I have also gone through this **** for four months & know how frustrating it can be. Mine turned out to be a wiring issue related to combining Mazda & GM wiring. Bottom line was no fuel or spark.
already took out a plug and check if it spark and it did, friend said it was kinda week but it was because the ground sensors were connected together in the back of the head, well at least what i think..
no maf because i was running open loop tuning, then when the motor took a dump it was getting tuned for sd tuning which doesnt require maf either..
im going to check all grounds again and check m fuses one more time. but any other suggestions