Shops pull the motor just to do rod bolts? 
rod bolt installation
Yeah, just pull the oil pan and windage tray and swap them out one at a time. You'll have to remove the pickup tube also. I've had my bolts for about 6 months now but they're such a pain in the *** to install. I'll get around to it some day.
Originally Posted by Cop Car
yeah. but i know on my KATECHs you had to press out the ferrul.
you CANNOT get the caps mixed up though.
you CANNOT get the caps mixed up though.
If you do one bolt at a time, the cap wil never be removed, and since one side is tight at all times, it wont even shift. You can pull out the ferrule with the old bolt.
where can i find a good write-up for this instillation, how much time does it usually take with the engine in the car and no air tools? Seems like pretty good insurance for just under 90 bucks. now if only a 12 bolt were cheap insurance too...
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TECH Apprentice
Joined: Sep 2005
Posts: 370
Likes: 0
From: Port Charlotte, FL
What are these ferrules have to come out? There was no mention of this in the ARP instructions when I did the bolts in my LS2. I just unthreaded the old bolts from the rod and then the car and threaded the ARP's in with no problems at all.
Joe
Joe
Originally Posted by Cop Car
well i belive you need to at least partialy drop/ lift the motor.. if not completely remove the k member..
IMO on any head/cam swap the motor should be removed...
IMO on any head/cam swap the motor should be removed...
1. friend broke off a headbolt.
2. another guy on here stripped out his threads
3. its not that much more work to take it out
4. its 456789678 times easier to work on it outside the car
2. another guy on here stripped out his threads
3. its not that much more work to take it out
4. its 456789678 times easier to work on it outside the car
Originally Posted by Cop Car
1. friend broke off a headbolt.
2. another guy on here stripped out his threads
3. its not that much more work to take it out
4. its 456789678 times easier to work on it outside the car
2. another guy on here stripped out his threads
3. its not that much more work to take it out
4. its 456789678 times easier to work on it outside the car
And if you think the LS1 is hard to work on, go work on an LT1...
If you're using the ARP headbolts, especially the pros, you need to resize the rod ends (that is in their instructions). Basically means that the bigger heaver bolts can deform the large end of the con rod enough to cause you unhappy bearing wear. Some folks have done this without resizing but it's kinda like getting away with one and certainly not the right way to do this.
This is pretty much the big differentiator between ARPs and the Katechs.
This is pretty much the big differentiator between ARPs and the Katechs.
Originally Posted by frijolee
If you're using the ARP headbolts, especially the pros, you need to resize the rod ends (that is in their instructions). Basically means that the bigger heaver bolts can deform the large end of the con rod enough to cause you unhappy bearing wear. Some folks have done this without resizing but it's kinda like getting away with one and certainly not the right way to do this.
This is pretty much the big differentiator between ARPs and the Katechs.
This is pretty much the big differentiator between ARPs and the Katechs.
If you decide (anyone) decides to go with katech, its because they are the superior bolt in terms of tensile strength and light weight, not to mention customer service and knowledge second to none. Dont do it because someone scared you into believeing the ARP bolts will trash your motor.
Just my opinion, but it is based on many, many accounts.
