labor cost on forged bottom end??
09-21-2006, 06:01 PM
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labor cost on forged bottom end?? If I don't sell the t/a, then I will want to supercharge it (probably f1 procharger) I would need a rearend, ds, and forged pistons beams and I will probably just use gm crank. I know this will cost around 10gs, but I'm trying to allocate the costs, to see would I can do first or whether I should do it all at once and try getting a package deal.
What kind of labor costs were incurred for forged bottom end (motor will have to be ripped out right?)
labor on the rearend> and if I get a moser 9: will I have to get diff torque arm??
I think alabor on s/c was like 800 bucks so that's no so bad.
People that did their own labor: good for you, you saved a shitload of $$. But I will most likely have a reputable shop build it for me.
Any input would be great.
What kind of labor costs were incurred for forged bottom end (motor will have to be ripped out right?)
labor on the rearend> and if I get a moser 9: will I have to get diff torque arm??
I think alabor on s/c was like 800 bucks so that's no so bad.
People that did their own labor: good for you, you saved a shitload of $$. But I will most likely have a reputable shop build it for me.
Any input would be great.
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09-21-2006, 11:47 PM
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I really don't know about labor. I never made it that far. When I started pricing out the parts and then looked at the prices from some of the sponsors fully assembled.....I figured why bother? It was only a couple hundred bucks more to get a fully assembled shortblock from Texas Speed. And they know what the hell they are doing. I didn't have a shop close to here that I trust.
09-21-2006, 11:50 PM
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Originally Posted by jay_99z
I really don't know about labor. I never made it that far. When I started pricing out the parts and then looked at the prices from some of the sponsors fully assembled.....I figured why bother? It was only a couple hundred bucks more to get a fully assembled shortblock from Texas Speed. And they know what the hell they are doing. I didn't have a shop close to here that I trust.
09-21-2006, 11:52 PM
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Originally Posted by TryingT/A
You people too ashamed to admit what you paid??
Originally Posted by TryingT/A
You guys are a huge help! 
Thanks
Thanks
09-22-2006, 12:08 AM
#11
Originally Posted by Insanekamel
true but if you are staying stock cubes why buy another block...
New block was $599. I can sell mine for a couple hundred and get some of that back. Like I said though....I didn't have someone close I would trust to build it. Saving a couple hundred on and engine doesn't mean much if it explodes. I guess the point is.....you can get a great deal from the sponsors and might not save much going local. Unless you have a great builder close by...
09-22-2006, 04:42 AM
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At 33k miles, I would really like to use my block , but 600 bucks isn't that much for a block. And if it's better to start of with a bare block, build the bottom end and just switch over the top end, then that might be a good solution. Speed inc. is a half hour from me, so that would probably be the place that i'd go.
09-22-2006, 02:32 PM
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then buy a 408 cast iron block stroker motor, put L92 heads on it, L92 intake on it then..sell your motor.. if not sell your complete motor and trans.. and get an upgraded trans at the same time.. your motor/trans should bring in the 4k range.. and i think you would end up comming out better in the long run
09-22-2006, 02:36 PM
#15
Originally Posted by TryingT/A
At 33k miles, I would really like to use my block , but 600 bucks isn't that much for a block. And if it's better to start of with a bare block, build the bottom end and just switch over the top end, then that might be a good solution. Speed inc. is a half hour from me, so that would probably be the place that i'd go.
If your engine is running right now.....that's a no brainer. Sell the shortblock and put that $$ towards the new one. You'll get more than enough to buy a new block.
09-22-2006, 07:16 PM
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1.) you should certainly be able to swap the rearend on your own especially if buying one that is already fabbed for your car, you may be a new TQ arm, i have the Spohn, and you will mostly likely need a new driveshaft that will be a different lengh than stock.
2.) buy a new shortblock:
http://www.texas-speed.com/shop/item...mid=42&catid=3
TSP 347 CID for 2800 and you may even be able to get better pricing elsewere or by calling?
You say you live by Speed Inc? Then search through their website a little http://www.ls1speed.com/enginepackages.cfm You can get the sportsman 348cid complete engine, installed, and dynotuned for $7500, sell your whole engine for 4K and youve got a brand new 348 installed and tuned for $3500, not bad?
Whatever you do i think you need to a lot of reading before you buy anything, if you want a SC you may want to talk to Speed inc about a different cam being put in the engine, the ls1tech search button is finally working agian, so you may want to use it.
2.) buy a new shortblock:
http://www.texas-speed.com/shop/item...mid=42&catid=3
TSP 347 CID for 2800 and you may even be able to get better pricing elsewere or by calling?
You say you live by Speed Inc? Then search through their website a little http://www.ls1speed.com/enginepackages.cfm You can get the sportsman 348cid complete engine, installed, and dynotuned for $7500, sell your whole engine for 4K and youve got a brand new 348 installed and tuned for $3500, not bad?
Whatever you do i think you need to a lot of reading before you buy anything, if you want a SC you may want to talk to Speed inc about a different cam being put in the engine, the ls1tech search button is finally working agian, so you may want to use it.
09-29-2006, 09:13 PM
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Buying a stroker motor is very tempting, it's common for most users on this site to have at least a 402. Buying a forged shortblock was the original plan, but it's a shame that I try to keep the miles down only to drop in a new engine.
What would that do to the value of the vehicle?
If I was buying a low mileage car with a new engine, I would ask myself what that owner was doing with the car to cause the engine to go. But how many f-bodys are stock anymore?
Would only the engine bring in $4000, or the trans and engine? It would be at least 2gs for a built t56, but that would be the best route if everything is getting replaced anyway.
What would that do to the value of the vehicle?
If I was buying a low mileage car with a new engine, I would ask myself what that owner was doing with the car to cause the engine to go. But how many f-bodys are stock anymore?
Would only the engine bring in $4000, or the trans and engine? It would be at least 2gs for a built t56, but that would be the best route if everything is getting replaced anyway.