Anyone have the spec for the ARP crank bolt?

 

Why would it be different than the OEM torque specs?

 

i torqued mine to spec.

 

Seat the pulley with an old stock headbolt at 240ft/lb. Then torque the arp bolt to 190ft/lbs with blue locktite but don't add the 140*

Also add a bit of moly to the face of the washer and backside of the bolt head.

 

no. oem bolt is a stretch bolt, ARP isnt.

 

Since it was recomended to use the ARP lube or oil on the threads, head and washer, I couldn't really use loktite. I've had it on and off a couple times and I torque the pulley first with a used stock bolt to 240 lbft. then the the ARP bolt to 240 lbft., It won't come off .

Dan

 

didnt the bolt come with a card with the torque spec? i lost my card..... X[

 

I went through this also, no specifications with my bolt. Per ARP, 190 lb-ft with ARP Moly lube on the threads and the head of the bolt.

If you go to 240 lb-ft, since ARP uses 75% of material yield as thier bolt preload, you run the risk of yielding the bolt and it either breaking during installation or later during removal.

 

Cool thanks! There was no info card with the bolt + washer

 

maybe i didnt lose it then! =]

 

Sorry, that was a typo . I went to 200 lbft. I checked the threads last time it was out and they were not overly streched.

Dan

 

I really think a lot of guys that have problems with the balancer getting loose is because of the balancer itself, in that the inner diameter doesn't have enough of an interference fit when re-used if it was marginal to begin with. Just a pet theory I guess.

 

I used lube on the threads then did the 190 ft lbs....and then safety wired it. Hey I'm ex Air Force I safety wire everything!

 

I did 250 on mine. Hope it doesn't need to come off.

 

I did 200ft lbs with arp moly lube. as directed by arp.