PtoV clearance (did search)
#1
PtoV clearance (did search)
iv got a stock block now and my heads have been milled .030 i have two cams MTI X1 230/227 .591./.571 112 and a RPM stg 3 232/236 .609/.611 112
Do you think the RPM cam will fit?? iv read the other threads about using "check springs" and using JB weld to turn my lifters into solid lifters so i can use the clay method, but i really dont have time for all that as this is my only car and i want to get back to driving it soon but i dont want to sacrifice power by putting in the smaller X1 cam (even though it put out little over 400rwhp in my last motor)
any help is much appreciated.
Thanks
Tyler
Do you think the RPM cam will fit?? iv read the other threads about using "check springs" and using JB weld to turn my lifters into solid lifters so i can use the clay method, but i really dont have time for all that as this is my only car and i want to get back to driving it soon but i dont want to sacrifice power by putting in the smaller X1 cam (even though it put out little over 400rwhp in my last motor)
any help is much appreciated.
Thanks
Tyler
#2
well if you wanna risk it and not check put the big one in..... but really theres no way to tell with out checkin it. i have the TSP 233-239 113 in my car AFRs milled .030 and cometic .045 gaskets and i had grrr. high 70s and 90s. like .078/.098 clearance. i went with it and took it to 6800 often it blew up now after the bottle but it ran good then.
i was gonna say your would be ok as long as you used stock gaskets but your on a 112 and i belive that takes more clearance away so....
i say check it if you dotn want to then be safe use the smallest.
i was gonna say your would be ok as long as you used stock gaskets but your on a 112 and i belive that takes more clearance away so....
i say check it if you dotn want to then be safe use the smallest.
#5
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Its funny but I was worried about PtV clearance with our X1 and heads milled .022-.025 (originally milled .020 but had a clean-up milling to make them true). So I am insterested to see if the bigger cam will fit because I would not mind putting something bigger in our car!
#7
P to V gets close when the piston comes up and chases the exhaust valve closed and when the intake opens right behind the piston which is starting to lower. But this is only half the event for each valve meaning ANY duration could get you into trouble if the manufacturer is trying to leave the exhaust open as long as possible and open the intake as soon as possible.
Add your milled heads in the mix and you're talking a pretty big gamble. Don't be lazy. Do it right. Checking is not that hard. With check springs you don't even need to take the heads off. (It's pretty obvious when the lifter is fully extended and when it's collapsing). Why risk a motor against $50 in tools and an hour's time?
If this is your only car it's doubly important to get it right. Otherwise you're trying to make big power blindly... That's when things go boom.
My 0.02. It's your car.
Add your milled heads in the mix and you're talking a pretty big gamble. Don't be lazy. Do it right. Checking is not that hard. With check springs you don't even need to take the heads off. (It's pretty obvious when the lifter is fully extended and when it's collapsing). Why risk a motor against $50 in tools and an hour's time?
If this is your only car it's doubly important to get it right. Otherwise you're trying to make big power blindly... That's when things go boom.
My 0.02. It's your car.
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#8
well now that i pulled my motor apart and found #2 piston has a melted edge i also found that every piston has a little eyelash mark on it from my intake valve. SO CHECK IT AND DONT PUSH IT!!!!!