Motor ate another G5X3 and Lifter – Bad news..
#1
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Motor ate another G5X3 and Lifter – Bad news..
Motor ate another G5X3 and Lifter – Bad news..
Well we finally got NATYSSOO’s car apart today, and yep another lifter failure.. Looks like he is going to need a new cam and lifter. The lifter was a little stubborn to get out and had scored the lifter bore slightly.. Anyone have some ideals on de-burring it.. Is there a honing tool small enough out there? This is now the 3rd time this has happened (1) Hammer Cam, and (2) G5X3 – and each time it is not cheap.. We had thought is was a lifter problem or cam problem.. Now wondering if it is valve spring related, so we are going to replace them too this time..
Enjoy the pics
Well we finally got NATYSSOO’s car apart today, and yep another lifter failure.. Looks like he is going to need a new cam and lifter. The lifter was a little stubborn to get out and had scored the lifter bore slightly.. Anyone have some ideals on de-burring it.. Is there a honing tool small enough out there? This is now the 3rd time this has happened (1) Hammer Cam, and (2) G5X3 – and each time it is not cheap.. We had thought is was a lifter problem or cam problem.. Now wondering if it is valve spring related, so we are going to replace them too this time..
Enjoy the pics
#4
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If this the 3rd time on this particular block, it is then a block issue more likely.
I would use either Morel or NEW GM Cadillac lifters and as Vettenuts mentionned, NEW lifter trays.
I would use either Morel or NEW GM Cadillac lifters and as Vettenuts mentionned, NEW lifter trays.
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Well, yes it has been happening on the same block but on different banks each time.. 1st and foremost, it lasted 45k miles the first time with the Hammer cam, with no issues.. Oil Pump is a Stock LS6 with 40-45# pressure at idle.. MTI LS1 Stage II R heads that have been on the car since 2001, and the springs that go along with it may not be up to par for the G5X3 as indicated would be fine.. The next (2) times failure was after switching to the G5X3 was at 700 miles and at 1200 miles and both times failed at the track.. Already bought the new lifter cups.. We will put her all together with new parts and see how see goes.. Not convinced it’s a bock issue but anything is possible. Will keep everyone posted.
#6
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There is a discussion (thread) where motor builders confirmed there were some block issues. Not all LS1s but isolated incidents.
If failure was on same lobe, you could be suspicious of cups or lifter galley, but different ones could indicate block issue.
If failure was on same lobe, you could be suspicious of cups or lifter galley, but different ones could indicate block issue.
#7
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In speaking with a core supplier the LS1 has at least 6 different aftermarket cores available all with different base circles. When Morel designed their lifters the core supplier worked with them in the spintron testing. Morel had several failure during the R&D time because of spauling...the wear you show. Each time they reloctated the oil band and tested it until they were able to achieve no spauling. It has been posted on this site that the Morel oil band area is dramtically different then the OEM's. I would be willing to bet a set of Morels installed and your problems would be gone. Call and ask people like Thunder, Futral, Rapid, and others that sell Morel how many issues they have had Morel and what they have had with the OEM type lifters.
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#8
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Originally Posted by PREDATOR-Z
If failure was on same lobe, you could be suspicious of cups or lifter galley, but different ones could indicate block issue.
Have you checked the lifter tray numbers that were installed when the problem occurred?
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you can line bore/hone the cam bore and hone the lifter bore.
Looks to me like the cam bore of off a bit but as i mentioned you can have it line bored like you do with a crank bore. if you do that i would also get the lifers honed.
Might be cheaper to buy a new machined block , but its not a throw away block by any means.
Looks to me like the cam bore of off a bit but as i mentioned you can have it line bored like you do with a crank bore. if you do that i would also get the lifers honed.
Might be cheaper to buy a new machined block , but its not a throw away block by any means.