About to pull the shortblock... never used a hoist before
Thread Starter
Joined: Dec 2004
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From: Dallas (Richardson), TX, USA
About to pull the shortblock... never used a hoist before Howdy all,
I have my engine stripped down to a shortblock at this point. All accessories and the transmission have been removed. I have an engine leveler and will be obtaining a hoist soon. I have some questions for those of you who have done this before...
1) What are the best places to grab the engine? I'm assuming head bolts on the bottom row will work okay?
2) After stripping this much off the engine, it looks like it might be possible to put the engine back in with the transmission attached to it. Has anyone ever done this before?
3) If I end up holding the engine by the head bolts and I use the far front and far back on the bottom row, I'm afraid that the chains going to the back bolts will end up tearing up the plastic cowl piece. Any comments on this?
4) Any other advice besides dropping the engine out the bottom? I'm too far along to do that and have no interest in lifting the car that high anyway.
Thanks in advance ls1techers.
I have my engine stripped down to a shortblock at this point. All accessories and the transmission have been removed. I have an engine leveler and will be obtaining a hoist soon. I have some questions for those of you who have done this before...
1) What are the best places to grab the engine? I'm assuming head bolts on the bottom row will work okay?
2) After stripping this much off the engine, it looks like it might be possible to put the engine back in with the transmission attached to it. Has anyone ever done this before?
3) If I end up holding the engine by the head bolts and I use the far front and far back on the bottom row, I'm afraid that the chains going to the back bolts will end up tearing up the plastic cowl piece. Any comments on this?
4) Any other advice besides dropping the engine out the bottom? I'm too far along to do that and have no interest in lifting the car that high anyway.
Thanks in advance ls1techers.
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Joined: Jan 2004
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From: San Antonio, Texas
I just completed my motor swap. The best place to attach the chain is to the corners of where the head bolts go. I would not attempt to put the motor back in with the tranny attached. Don't worry about the cowl once you have everything attached to the hoist when you lift up the hoist will pull the motor towards the hoist and upwards at the same time. Also when you put your motor back in leave the intake manifold, ac compressor, bellhousing and alternator off or you can mess up your cowl pretty bad trying to get it to fit. This makes it alot easier to "drop" the motor in.
Last edited by ws.6kid; Nov 6, 2006 at 02:42 PM.
Thread Starter
Joined: Dec 2004
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From: Dallas (Richardson), TX, USA
I'll be dropping the engine back in as a shortblock and rebuilding it from there. The only question about what to have attached was tranny or no tranny.
Now, when you say the "corners of where the head bolts go," which head bolts are you referring to? Top, middle, or bottom row? Also, you say that when you pick the motor up it will swing forward towards the hoist. This is most likely because the chains are leaning against the plastic cowl piece. If that's the case, then how do you push the engine back towards the firewall when dropping the engine back in place?
Now, when you say the "corners of where the head bolts go," which head bolts are you referring to? Top, middle, or bottom row? Also, you say that when you pick the motor up it will swing forward towards the hoist. This is most likely because the chains are leaning against the plastic cowl piece. If that's the case, then how do you push the engine back towards the firewall when dropping the engine back in place?
i lifted mine out from the bolts on the outside of the head where the dipstick bolt would go. came right out that way.(must have bell housing off) and if you take the crank pully off you will not believe the room you have.
i have just done 3 motor swaps by lifting out the top and helped do 1 out the bottom. i will only go out the top from now on
i have just done 3 motor swaps by lifting out the top and helped do 1 out the bottom. i will only go out the top from now on
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Joined: Jan 2004
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From: San Antonio, Texas
It depends on how many chains you are using. If you are using 2 chains use two bolts on each bottom corners of the heads. If you are using one chain put the bolts accordingly so that the chain is diagonal across the block. To tell you the truth there is no right place to put the chains, the idea is just to even out the weight of the block.
What I mean about the motor coming forward is once you have the chains connected and the motor mounts out and are ready to pull the shortblock. Once you start jacking the hoist, the arm starts to pull up and back towards you. It doesn't look like it would move but it does. You will see what I mean once the motor is out it should hover close to where the radiator was. So keep in mind the hoist just doesn't lift straight up.
What I mean about the motor coming forward is once you have the chains connected and the motor mounts out and are ready to pull the shortblock. Once you start jacking the hoist, the arm starts to pull up and back towards you. It doesn't look like it would move but it does. You will see what I mean once the motor is out it should hover close to where the radiator was. So keep in mind the hoist just doesn't lift straight up.
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i just use the holes in the front driver head that the accesories bolt to and in the back passenger side which is threaded but i don't think anything is bolted up back there.did the same thing on numerous sbc motors which is heavier than an ls1 so no worries about pulling threads or breaking off.
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From: Out on the farm in Central IL
I put mine back in with the heads on and the trans attached. There were 3 of us for the procedure. We had the hoist attached to the front and back of the heads ( we had a leveler on the hoist), got the trans and engine back in the general direction of the engine bay, put a jack under the trans and took off the chain accross the back of the heads.
Doing this allowed us to set the engine in the mounts and then jack the back of the trans up and put in the crossmember.
Worked like a charm.
Doing this allowed us to set the engine in the mounts and then jack the back of the trans up and put in the crossmember.
Worked like a charm.
I have pulled the engine and tranny together as a single unit. I run a bolt into the back end on the pass side head and a bolt into the front of the dvr side head. Run a chain between the two bolts. Lift from about the fourth link back from the engine center. So, you need 1) drop the drive shaft, 2) plug back end of tranny (or drain tranny fluid), 3) drain coolant & disconnect coolant/radiator hoses & remove raditor, 4) disconnect all other lines, connectors, & wiring looms from engine & tranny, 5) place an hydraulic jack under tail end of tranny with wheels of jack aligned fore & aft, 6) remove engine mounting bolts, 7) drop exhaust system, 8) remove hood.
Pick up engine behind center point with engine hoist. The weight of the tranny will force a tilt to the whole thing, raise engine in steps while backing out at the same time. I have done this 3 times on various Camaros.
Pick up engine behind center point with engine hoist. The weight of the tranny will force a tilt to the whole thing, raise engine in steps while backing out at the same time. I have done this 3 times on various Camaros.
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Joined: Dec 2004
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From: Hoover, AL
im glad this thread was started cause im tempted to pull my motor for the heads and cam swap. mainly cause i think i slid the head across the gasket last time i put it back on which removed that black sealer crap and i now have a coolant leak down the side of the block. i got all the stuff to do it with, do you all think its worth it?
Thread Starter
Joined: Dec 2004
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From: Dallas (Richardson), TX, USA
Originally Posted by RocketCutlass
im glad this thread was started cause im tempted to pull my motor for the heads and cam swap. mainly cause i think i slid the head across the gasket last time i put it back on which removed that black sealer crap and i now have a coolant leak down the side of the block. i got all the stuff to do it with, do you all think its worth it?
Thread Starter
Joined: Dec 2004
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From: Dallas (Richardson), TX, USA
Okay, there are some great posts on this thread. I'm really glad some people have weighed in on the matter.
I connected the leveler to the engine using the front and rear head bolts on the middle row (the chains are too short for the bottom row). When I pick up on the leveler, it hits the bottom of the cowl. Based on what people are posting, it sounds like I'll need to tilt the leveler so that the hoist is just picking up on the front of the engine and use a jack under the back of the oil pan. This way the back chains will be loose and not tear up the cowl any. Does this sound about right? Attached is a pic of the problem I'm describing.
Also, I put head bolts in, and they obviously don't snug down flush to the deck (see pic). Is this a problem? Do I need to find a bolt that will tighten all the way down or consider using a different bolt location? Has anyone ever used the valley cover bolts?
I connected the leveler to the engine using the front and rear head bolts on the middle row (the chains are too short for the bottom row). When I pick up on the leveler, it hits the bottom of the cowl. Based on what people are posting, it sounds like I'll need to tilt the leveler so that the hoist is just picking up on the front of the engine and use a jack under the back of the oil pan. This way the back chains will be loose and not tear up the cowl any. Does this sound about right? Attached is a pic of the problem I'm describing.
Also, I put head bolts in, and they obviously don't snug down flush to the deck (see pic). Is this a problem? Do I need to find a bolt that will tighten all the way down or consider using a different bolt location? Has anyone ever used the valley cover bolts?
Thread Starter
Joined: Dec 2004
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From: Dallas (Richardson), TX, USA
Originally Posted by GuitsBoy
Damn dude... What was the total damage from the lifters / cam walking? Guess enough to warrant pulling the motor.
I tried to give you a call tonight bro to sorta update you. Feel free to buzz me back whenever.
i noticed you already have the crank pulley off. in this case you can put 1 chain connecting at the middle head bolt holes. the chain will clear the cowl and you can then pull the engine straight up, then forward, then up and out without tilting it at all.
i have done it this way many times and it was so easy. the month of august was not good to me lol. I pulled my stock motor out and rebuilt it then spun a bearing. then pulled a motor out of a doner car and put it in mine. 3 pulls and 2 installs in a month sucks.
i have done it this way many times and it was so easy. the month of august was not good to me lol. I pulled my stock motor out and rebuilt it then spun a bearing. then pulled a motor out of a doner car and put it in mine. 3 pulls and 2 installs in a month sucks.
Thread Starter
Joined: Dec 2004
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From: Dallas (Richardson), TX, USA
I'm keenly interested in whether or not it's okay to use the head bolts since they don't tighten down flush with the deck. If not, I hope the valley cover bolts are sufficient.
since you have the heads off if you are only removing the motor you can just get a short chain to go from front driver side/back passenger side head bolt holes and lift it without a leveler.just hook it a link or so towards the front so it it angles some and it should pull right out if it breaks loose from the trans easily.
1bad02ws6 =damn ! if i had to do 3 motor pulls in 2 months i would be a mental institution! i feel for you.
1bad02ws6 =damn ! if i had to do 3 motor pulls in 2 months i would be a mental institution! i feel for you.
Thread Starter
Joined: Dec 2004
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From: Dallas (Richardson), TX, USA
Thanks for all the info guys. Still wondering if it's okay to use the head bolts since they don't tighten down to the deck. If not, then what about the valley cover bolts?