eb02z06

iTrader: (18)

Guys I'm just about ready to get my forged 347 built but have a few questions from all of you who have done this. First thing is the block, which one is preferable-the LS1 or LS6? I have the LS6 sitting between my fenders and the LS1 waiting in the wings. The LS1 is out of a 2000 and is in mint shape-got it from my buddy WHPLASH. I have read that the LS1's are preferable due to way the windage holes are? Another question I have is the engine girdles that are out-has anyone these? I know Bob at EPP used one and liked it-we used to use them on all the stock 5.0L motors with success to. The rest of my build is as follows-anyhting you don't think is a good idea ro maybe I should reconsider please post up and state why.

I'm using Wiseco psitons with -2.2cc valve reliefs( K398A07)
Wiseco rings, Eagle 6.125 rods, ARP main and head studs, blower cam from Slowhawk-220/224 115, 317 heads milled to 69.5 cc's-to give me a compression of 9.8 or so and upgraded to 8 rib and spin the blower to around 55,000 rpm to make around 14-16 psi. Goal is to make 700 rwhp.

Basically everything is the same as it currently is but going forged and upping the boost and using a "blower cam".

I don't want to change to many things from the combo curently in the car since it worked so well.

The other changes will be upgraded to a return style fuels sytem, replacing the Walbro/LPE pump for a Bosch 420 intank, and going to a dual nozzle meth setup and 8 ribs for the drive system.

Next years goals are 9.90's@140

Your thoughts are greatly appreciated on this.

eb02z06

iTrader: (18)

No one has any input?

STKN1STGEAR

iTrader: (1)

WOW !!!!!
I am basicly biulding the same motor. Great minds think alike.
I am using aN LS2 block.
I think the compression is to high, should be around 9.0:1.
700 RWHP is going to be hard to reach, I was going for 550 - 600 RWHP.
I like the cam, that is what I think I am going to use, 220-224 @114 deg.
Can you tell me more about the meth setup?
Thanks
Al

chriswtx

iTrader: (5)

9.8:1 is high but not to high especially since your spraying meth. I'm going to run 9.5:1 compression. 14psi should net you around 750rwhp in your car depending on how the eads flow.. Same goal as me. I dont think the engine girdle is needed until about 900rwhp or more. The LS6 block is plenty strong. The 2000 LS1 block is strong also. I have never seen any proof that the windage holes in the LS6 block make it weaker. I'm using an LS6 block. All the new forged short blocks built by vendors use LS6 blocks cause thats all they make now...You could switch to some CNC ported 317 heads with the stock 72cc chambers. Flow well (more hp) and will lower the compression a little more...

chriswtx

iTrader: (5)

700rwhp will be easy. He's already at 645rwhp at 11psi on a stock bottom unported 317 heads. He will hit 730-760rwhp at around 14psi and ported heads..

kp

iTrader: (34)

Either block will work just fine, I wouldnt bother with the girdle for what ypu are doing - I have yet to see one of these blocks split in half like a 302. The slightly better baffling isnt a big deal.

I ran my old 'thin sleeved' 98 block all last year with -2cc wiseco pistons with stock connecting rods, 98 heads (9.8:1 compression) and 14-15psi on 104 unleaded and its still going fine in another car. Ran 9.70s with it with an 01 z06 cam @ 3320lbs, if you can get a decent 60' nines should be doable..

eb02z06

iTrader: (18)

So no preference on the block guys? I'm going to try to get 700 with the stock 317 heads first than later I'll maybe pick up a set of Patriots. ECS is doing 740 with stock LS6 castings so I figured keeping the compression hi would actually help that cause. Plus the other thing is with the forged pistons i can get a bit more aggressive with the timing too and alos lean it out just a tad. This year I was running 11.1-11.3 and all my quarter mile pulls. Thanks for the input guys. Chris did you see that TTix kit for sale?

gnx7

iTrader: (28)

When you start making beyond 650-700rwhp many forced induction guys have experienced ring sealing problems due to bore distortion I believe with LS1/LS6 blocks. These are guys that put a few thousand miles on their cars and actually drive them vs. race only setups. I was researching this a number of months back and this was the verdict. At your powerlevels you may be fine... until you want to make more power which is easy with forced induction.

I would start with an LS2 block as it is proven to be a stronger setup and many are making a reliable 1000rwhp with stock LS2 block, LS1 crank, stock cast main caps/ARP studs, forged pistons/rods, LS6 intake, ported TB, and good flowing heads. There are a few turbo guys running mid 8's@165mph+ in 3800lb F-body's with the above mentioned combo.

For stock style casting heads Patriot has a sale on heads now which would be worth the small investment. The power is in the heads and the 6.0 style would be worth looking at like you mentioned.

eb02z06

iTrader: (18)

Over on the CF forum there seems to be lot of TT guys making around 750+ on the LS1/LS6 blocks. I don't see how DD will be any harder on the motor as I drive like an old man since the car is pretty useless on radials. I drive it just because I want a DD car that i can drive everyday and has the potential to run 9's at the track. Plus I think a Centri blower is alot easier on the block than nitrous or a turbo. The hit is very progressive-it's not like a big shot of nitrous or like going from 0 to 16 psi in .5 a second like a turbo. I'm going to take the LS2 out of the equation right now. I don't want to change too much-it's tempting but with all the new stuff coming down the pipe I think waiting and using what I have is a better idea. In all honestly the power the car is making should put it in the 9's. BUT slamming gears will take more alot more practice and seat time. That 10.45 pass was after driving the car 100km-changing tires and lining up and go-the next pass the car spun and went right so I shortshifted and still ran 10.66@135.77. They booted me for not having a cage so a chromoly cage is also going in. I think the cage will probably add around 55-65lbs so another 50-60 horse will hopefully offset that. Basically I don't want to change anything to radical-just want to make it more reliable. Then just drive it, drive it, drive it.

kp

iTrader: (34)

gnx7 I think thats a little backwards, beating your car to death at a dragstrip kills ring seal way before putting around on the street will

onfire

iTrader: (17)

If you want 140 power.....use two Bosch 044's, not one.

chriswtx

iTrader: (5)

Yeah, I saw it. I'm going to stick with the Paxton for now. 750rwhp will be enough. Going to spend the extra $$$ on a 20ft car trailer and roll cage..

chriswtx

iTrader: (5)

That was my original plan. I have a set of brand new 317s sitting in my garage that I was going to just hand light port and polish(just clean up). But I came across a set of PRC CNC LS6 stage 2.5 heads with larger valves for a good price and decided it was better to spend the $$ up front and do it all at once than to go back and do a head swap later..I'm sure you will hit your goal either way..

eb02z06

iTrader: (18)

Bro is your shortblock almost done? Can't wait to see the results!

chriswtx

iTrader: (5)

Soon, if I ever get my my but in the garage to work on it. I've been sick for the last 2 weekends and havn't been able to work on the car. The new heads will be here tomorrow. I was hoping to have it back together by Nov. 30, but since I lost 2 weekends of work thats not gonna happen

SLED28

iTrader: (7)

LS6 block is the one with the better windaging, and a little bit sturdier.

Got Me SOM

iTrader: (2)

you should be able to hit your goal pretty easily with a basic forged bottom end, you won't even need to do heads except for double valvesprings. Your almost there right now.

Pro Stock John

iTrader: (34)

The blocks I would use in order:

#1 LS2
#2 LS6
#3 LS1

I am using a 2001 LS6 block currently, but if I do another shorty I will do a stock stroke LS2.

somws6bird

I got one of the DM performance engine girdles. I think if you plan on going with nitrous or Turbo,supercharger it would be a wise investment. I got one a couple weeks ago and It bolted right in with no machining and I didnt even have to drop my motor.